I am getting ready to build a bridge hammock. I currently sleep full-time in a Warbonnet RR, but I want a little more room, and perhaps a better side sleep. At first I was just going to build a simple Bic/HikingDad version. Then, upon more reading, I thought maybe a WV People’s Bridge. Then more reading, and I decided to go with the more difficult classic Grizz Ariel with recessed bars. There are a number of comments that, aside from button holes and folded material channels, probably the most difficult issue is splicing the suspension lines accurately. (spliced loop, followed by two spliced “eyes” for the spreader bars, and finished with another loop – all with exact measurements). I received a tip from Just Bill to possibly spice 4 suspension lines, then put them under tension, then lay them out side-by-side to find a good matching pair.
A thought came . . . to maybe make the suspension not in two lengths, but four separate ones. The two most critical in measurements, the parallel Amsteel lines in the side channels, could be the appropriate length with only a spliced loop at each end. These loops would be attached with a Lark’s Head knot to sewing bobbins that would slip over the spreader bar tips. Then, another two lengths with only spliced loops again at each end for the head and foot ‘dogbone’ triangles. The loops would also be attached with Lark’s Head knots to the spreader bar bobbin tips (or maybe attached to each other and slipped over the bobbin). These last two lengths would not have to be very accurate since the center of the lines would be the apex of the triangle suspension, and then be Lark’s-headed to probably a carabiner for simplicity, or maybe a cinch buckle to complete. If my thoughts are right, I would only have to be accurate on 4 splices instead of 8. This seems?? at the moment to make sense to me, and, if I follow the tip from Just Bill it will also save a lot of cordage.
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