Custom Marlin Spike--who will sell them?

**Running Feather** · 11-13-2009, 07:14

I'm waiting for my 7-Eleven straws to arrive this weekend.

**pgibson** · 11-13-2009, 10:51

Originally Posted by oldgringo

I have concluded that Paul lives in a parallel universe, wherein each day encompasses 96 hours.

Is that all

I could swear most days feel closer to 150-175

**Ekul** · 11-13-2009, 13:04

Walking around Depot this morning and noticed that they do sell aluminum rods 3/8" to 1/2" in assort lengths if this helps teh marlin spike crowd. Cutting a piece of aluminum rod is custom right?

**TeeDee** · 11-13-2009, 16:19

Originally Posted by pgibson

...... I like Mack's idea of shaping them a bit, I am thinking very subtle hour glass shape with rounded ends, but am up for any suggestions.

No, No, No.

Please do not shape them. The compression keeps them in the Marlin Spike Hitch just dandy.

An hour glass shape would make it harder, maybe much harder, to extricate the dowels.

A plain straight cylinder, very smooth surface is just dandy.

Ohh and a real nice color and grain.

I really really love grained wood.

The custom dowels are not strictly necessary, but they do add a pleasing visual detail while hanging.

**pgibson** · 11-13-2009, 16:26

Going down to the wood shop to cut some out now, will post a pick with what I come up with in just a little bit.

Paul

**chezrad** · 11-13-2009, 16:35

I went to a bow hunting shop and got several carbon arrow cutoffs. They seem to work great.

**TeeDee** · 11-13-2009, 16:40

Paul - one other thought - make sure that whatever finish you use does not become sticky in hot and/or humid weather or cold weather either.

Maybe just Finnish Oil??

**pgibson** · 11-13-2009, 17:48

Ok just finished 2 little toggles, Now this is a rush and made with what I was able to find at the local hard ware store. I have some exotic woods coming that I will play with next week and make some actual completed toggles, these are just a test run and I did not want to wait to dry both ends so they are not a total finish, but it lets you see what the wood starts off as.

This one is Red Oak

and this is Birch (pretty sure of that)

So other than a hole for a lanyard any suggestions?

I use a clear polyurethane to finish these (not positive but that should be good no matter the weather, as a heavy coat of that is like clear plastic once it hardens up.) Not sure about oiling them that could seep onto gear???

**TeeDee** · 11-13-2009, 20:16

Originally Posted by pgibson

I use a clear polyurethane to finish these (not positive but that should be good no matter the weather, as a heavy coat of that is like clear plastic once it hardens up.) Not sure about oiling them that could seep onto gear???

I use the Finnish Oil on my oak foot spreader bars. 2 or 3 coats. brush on a light coat and let dry overnight. The oil soaks in and darkens the Oak to a nice luster. Water beads and runs right off. Have never seen the oil rub off on anything else (even me

) after letting it soak in and dry overnight.

The polyurethane would probably be good also, but I have seen all such finishes dry and crack after a year or two of exposure to the UV outside.

Cannot happen with the oil.

The only drawback to the oil is that it has to be re-applied every few years, but UV exposure has no effect. After a few applications over the years, the oil has soaked in enough that is has worked pretty deep. For a dowel, I imagine it would have soaked all the way through.