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  1. #81
    Senior Member bigbamaguy's Avatar
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    Jan 2009
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    NE Alabama
    Hammock
    Clark NX-200
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    Clark XL-Fly
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    KAQ NR UQ/AHE KAQ
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    Strap/cinch buckle
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    2,426
    Yes that is it.............they work like a ladder lock on a backpacks shoulder strap. As weight is applied to the hammock or buckle the outer ring squeezes the strap between the sliding bar and the inner edge of the outer ring. The slider bar usually has a ribbed or tooth section that bites into the strapcoming fromt eh tree locking it into place.

    Easier example would be a Chinese Finger Trap.............the harder you pull your fingers apart the more the trap squeezes on you fingers.
    Par Si Vis Pace Para Bellum

  2. #82
    BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Jan 2007
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    Tupelo, MS
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    Quote Originally Posted by ice man View Post
    After trying the ring buckles, only to slide down and "embrace mother earth" I read about the cinch buckles. A co-worker was enlisted to order some online. Ordered from onrope 1 on friday. figured it'd take at least a week to get 'em. Shock and aw! they were in the mailbox monday! Sat down and cooked up some adaptators for the NX150, and headed for the back yard for a test run.
    Stunning. These things are fast to set up, and they actually work! I bounced around trying to force the issue, but to no avail. These things stay right where you put 'em! Thank you folks for spreading the word, it really is informative reading HF.
    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    Just don't pull them too tight or you'll have a hard time getting them undone!
    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    If you do have a hard time undoing them, it's a clear sign you didn't have a steep enough suspension angle. Use more sag!
    I have used my cinch buckles on my Claytor for several years, always work great. You do need to take a second or 2 and make sure the little movable center metal bar is lined up just right with the rest of the buckle and straps. And not at even the slightest angle/diagonal, or it will slip. If lined up correctly(easy to do), it never moves. Of course, you could always do a slippery half hitch for extra assurance. How long does that take, 5 or 10 seconds? But I have not found it needed at all, unless I get careless.

    As long as I am able to pull even a smidgeon of slack into the suspension- which is very likely after I have been in the hammock a while- it always can be loosened easily. Now if you use the cinch buckles to tighten the heck out of a ridgeline ( don't know why you would do that) then you might have some trouble undoing it. But even then, after you sleep in it things should stretch just enough for undoing the cinch buckles with ease.
    For I consider that the sufferings of this present time are not worthy to be compared with the glory that is to be revealed to us....that the creation itself also will be set free from its slavery to corruption into the freedom of the glory of the children of God. For we know that the whole creation groans and suffers the pains of childbirth together until now.
    Romans 8:18,21-22

  3. #83
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central, OK
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    33
    Thanks for the insight into this setup.

  4. #84
    RSGary's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Hammock
    Homemade
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    Readystraps
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    758
    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    I got some buckles from Crazy Creek, but I didn't like how the Crazy Creek uses the webbing so I made my own. Check out my system here:

    http://www.tothewoods.net/HomemadeGe...eSupports.html
    I am sure that these are the same type and manufacturer cinch buckles that I carry and use for all my hangs. To me they are the fastest, easiest and probably the strongest way to go.

    The manufacturer claims that these buckles have been tested up to 1200 lbs without showing a scratch. Although they could not produce the test info at the time.
    I believe it though since they are stamped out and don't seem to show any weak spots or seams. Hopefully I will have a chance to test them myself soon and come up with a reliable breaking strength that can be documented and posted.

    Meanwhile, I will continue to use these everywhere from back yard hangs to cliff hangs.
    http://www.readystrap.com Webbing - Hardware - Straps - and More!

  5. #85
    Zilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Jersey Pinelands
    Hammock
    DIY Custom Zilla Bridge
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    Zilla tarp/custom
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    Uderquilts.com
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    Readystrap/buckles
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    Do they look something like these ?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #86
    New Member
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    May 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
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    5
    Anyone find that the webbing used in these cinch buckle systems holds more rain water that runs down into the hammock than a whoopie sling setup?

  7. #87
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Oregon
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    218
    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    so i`m still not sure what`s the strongest stitching method for sewing webbing together to form a loop & hold a persons weight.
    i know lot`s of people do it & don`t have a problem. i`ve done several that are still intact.
    i`m sure that my main problem on the one that came apart was that the stitching was too far & loose.
    but i`d still like to know the best stitch for webbing.
    Well. This is coming from a guy who have military equipment and uses the military specifications on his equipment....... YMMV....

    that said; I have a continuous loop of 1.75" SUPER HEAVY DUTY Nylon cargo strap from a surplus store...they used what amounts to fishing line and around 4-6mm stitch length, straight stitching, box style with overlapping Xs over a sleeve of cordura, and it was nearly impossible to cut through the stitching, broke a couple X-acto blades trying to separate them....
    NO bartacking on this strap. in fact, most of the equipment shoulder straps have either one bartack, and overlapped X box stitches, or just box stitches, where load is to be put on...and I've noticed a difference between some of my ALICE gear webbing, some of them have just 3 lines of 3mm stitch lengths on straight stitches, next to each other, others have bartacks, and still others have one straight and one zig-zag.... these are all for attaching pouches and equipment to......and on the riggers' belts I have, which have the SAME cinch buckle system as shown in this thread; they're usually box stitched with 2-3 overlapping Xs and maybe one bar-tack near the buckle's edge....
    for Poly webbing, I would reduce stitch length to maybe 3mm stitch length, and then do 2-3 more Xs on the box stitch, basically making a bunch of diamond crossovers.

    another name for these buckles I've heard from UK users, "Roll-Pin" buckles, looks a little different, and uses a knurled pin with slots on the ends in the same style loop, not sure what their load limits are though...



    the little slot is for 25mm/1" webbing, and is NOT load bearing, it's to make it easier to undo the buckle; shown here


    you could do a search for Rigger's Belt buckles...there's another that is a trapezoid with a triangular end, that is meant for attaching a rope or carabiner..... and you might find there are other styles of cinch buckles that could release quickly but hold a lot of weight....

    hope this helps

  8. #88
    Member capta1n's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    The Great NW
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    DIY Spear
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    Tyvek 9'x11'
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    Whoopie Sling
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    just picked mine up today, now to wait. while i was at it i bought a glow in the dark nalgene bottle for only 9.50. Normally i use a whoopie sling and some tree huggers, but i have to try these to see if i like one more than the other.
    "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived."
    -Henry David Thoreau

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