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  1. #291
    dragon360's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostinSpace View Post
    That shows the machine using small household spools. He is using a 4oz cone of thread and is suppose to rig it like so.
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...UBMAU&dur=2378
    I've used my smaller cones the same as my regulat spools on my machines with no issues (so far!). But I do like that cone holder rig. I looked before and again more recently around me and have had no luck finding one.

    Any chance of seeing how you have yours rigged LostinSpace? I'm really interested in some pics of some other options.
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  2. #292
    Clinton's Avatar
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    A little wood a dowel rod and a safety pin and your all set.

  3. #293
    Boothill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy64 View Post
    This was my mother's machine. It's a 1958 Montgomery Wards URR-279A.

    I have a lot to learn about this, but my first few projects have gone well.

    nice looking rig, really like the color of the blue with chrome on it.....sharp

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  4. #294
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy64 View Post
    This was my mother's machine. It's a 1958 Montgomery Wards URR-279A.

    I have a lot to learn about this, but my first few projects have gone well.

    Can't make too many copies of a beautiful machine.

    Edit: I see this is made in Japan. Maybe a Toyota by a different name. Good for 350,000 miles of seam before the clutch need attention.

    This is similar in styling to a same-era White.

    Looks like a machine by Gritzner-Kayzer. White made machines for Sears and sold as Kenmore, but it didn't have a zigzag machine (or one that met the Sears requirements, such as a 25 year guarantee). So, Sears went to Pfaff for its premium model. And Pfaff had recently acquired Gritzner-Kayzer, another old line and reputable firm, which had a zigzag model. Pfaff itself re-packaged it as their own 139. Looks like Montgomery Ward did the same.

    See Kenmore 117.(740,840,841,842 -- choose one suffix)

    The good machines made for major chains, and department sores, all metal, will be running (if not varnished up or disposed of) for 100 years.

    I just read that Kenmores remained keepers* for a decade longer than other premium machines because they went with a fine Japanese mfg which would not include plastic / nylon in any of the machinery.

    *Keeper = machine with no working parts deteriorated after 25 years.

    I have a beautifully-styled, silent, fast, and smooth straight-stitch Necchi Supernova from 1956 with ONE nylon / plastic working part. It is a worm gear looking like a drywall screw- in anchor skewered on a shaft. It sets the stitch length by capturing and moving a highly-leveraged metal adjuster in its thread when it is turned by a knob So, there is very little load. Well, it may have been self-lubricating nylon, but it was also self-destructing.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 06-23-2012 at 12:01. Reason: read the label

  5. #295
    Pag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon360 View Post
    I've used my smaller cones the same as my regulat spools on my machines with no issues (so far!). But I do like that cone holder rig. I looked before and again more recently around me and have had no luck finding one.

    Any chance of seeing how you have yours rigged LostinSpace? I'm really interested in some pics of some other options.
    Most industrial have what I refer to as gallows. This pic is of my coverstitch so it looks a little different. My single needle machines have stands similar that hold two cones.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  6. #296
    Senior Member Morgoroth's Avatar
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    Here are my thread injectors. But before you get the wrong idea. I'm passable but not the greatest thread injector.
    I got the machines from different grandmothers.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #297
    Senior Member JerryW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostinSpace View Post
    Um....You're not suppose to pull the thread off the roll like that. The thread is suppose to come off the spool upward and freely, go through an eye above the spool than back down to the machine. I use simple spring loaded paper clips clipped onto a screw in the ceiling above the spool than rout the thread thru the round handle of the clip. There should be absolutely no tension on the thread until it gets to the thread tensioner on the machine.
    Just saying.. Nice machine BTW.
    Thanks for the tip, but it works perfect just like it's shown. I do have an overhead thread guide for the larger cones seen in the background.
    The "Search" function is your friend!

  8. #298
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryW View Post
    Thanks for the tip, but it works perfect just like it's shown. I do have an overhead thread guide for the larger cones seen in the background.
    There are two separate issues. One is whether the thread gets a twist in the wrong direction coming off a spool. Or if there is a twist in the wrong direction, that there has been space enough over which to spread the twist so that no few stitches are affected by a local near-kink. We've all had the experience of coiling rope where just one more twist, even over a span of several feet, causes a rope to lay wrong or subject it to risk of tangling.

    But, thread is put up on tapered spools so there is no additional twist if it comes up off the top, correct? And if so, there is an unexpected twist if the spool rotates. Please correct this if wrong.

    The other issue is the machine's expectation of where tension comes from. In my limited experience there is always on better old skool home machines one guide and sometimes two guides before the tension disks. I just checked a few machines and can confirm LIS's expectation that they are all just guides, none of them adding any tension to the thread. The friction of rotating on spindles is negligible unless the thread itself was improperly wound on the spool.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 06-25-2012 at 21:14.

  9. #299
    Senior Member Morgoroth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    There are two separate issues. One is whether the thread gets a twist in the wrong direction coming off a spool. Or if there is a twist in the wrong direction, that there has been space enough over which to spread the twist so that no few stitches are affected by a local near-kink. We've all had the experience of coiling rope where just one more twist, even over a span of several feet, causes a rope to lay wrong or subject it to risk of tangling.

    But, thread is put up on tapered spools so there is no additional twist if it comes up off the top, correct? And if so, there is an unexpected twist if the spool rotates. Please correct this if wrong.

    The other issue is the machine's expectation of where tension comes from. In my limited experience there is always on better old skool home machines one guide and sometimes two guides before the tension disks. I just checked a few machines and can confirm LIS's expectation that they are all just guides, none of them adding any tension to the thread. The friction of rotating on spindles is negligible unless the thread itself was improperly wound on the spool.
    I have been wondering about this after getting the surger.
    I don't know if the tapered spool would effect the twist though.
    I thought it was just to let the spool unwind from the top more easily.
    I guess it would give the thread some twist, but the twists are run through the machine in a way that they don't get built up near the spool which would cause kinking...

    That's just a theory though, I'm not really sure about any of it.

  10. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgoroth View Post
    Here are my thread injectors. But before you get the wrong idea. I'm passable but not the greatest thread injector.
    I got the machines from different grandmothers.
    Your grandmothers did you right.

    That looks like a nice Singer 221 Feather Weight. Out of curiosity, what's it's serial number?

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