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  1. #71
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    whoopies rock!

  2. #72
    Senior Member hikelite's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting this Opie. I used your excellent pictures to make my first sling last night.
    Life is hard? Compared to what?

  3. #73
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    hike, Im glad this is still valuable to the community.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  4. #74

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    I initially made 2 whoopie slings using simple buried eyes I was going to lock by stitching but went back and used the method of turning the rope inside out to turn them into locked brummels. Then used the normal method to make 2 more slings. This thread was invaluable in doing both of those operations.

    One question. In my mind the bury after the locking splices seems only to be a way to dispose of the excess cord. Is this bury structural? And if so, what percentage of the brummels strength comes from the locking splices and what percentage from the bury. Just wondering as I used minimal buries and am hoping I don't have to undo these and make them again with longer buries.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike210 View Post
    One question. In my mind the bury after the locking splices seems only to be a way to dispose of the excess cord. Is this bury structural? And if so, what percentage of the brummels strength comes from the locking splices and what percentage from the bury. Just wondering as I used minimal buries and am hoping I don't have to undo these and make them again with longer buries.
    Someone will likely correct me if I'm wrong. I thought the strength came from the bury. The locked brummel wouldn't be necessary for a static load. The reason for the lock is to prevent the bury from creeping under dynamic load. Over time it could creep out. I'm not sure what the minimum safe bury is, I always over bury. I don't weigh grams or count pennys with my gear. Though looking at it now I don't see how a locked brummel can come apart assuming a couple inches of tail. I definitely wouldn't go crazy short.

    Yup I know no help at all...

  6. #76
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike210 View Post
    I initially made 2 whoopie slings using simple buried eyes I was going to lock by stitching but went back and used the method of turning the rope inside out to turn them into locked brummels. Then used the normal method to make 2 more slings. This thread was invaluable in doing both of those operations.

    One question. In my mind the bury after the locking splices seems only to be a way to dispose of the excess cord. Is this bury structural? And if so, what percentage of the brummels strength comes from the locking splices and what percentage from the bury. Just wondering as I used minimal buries and am hoping I don't have to undo these and make them again with longer buries.
    The bury is where the load is carried. The marlin splice will support a fair amount of load, but the majority of the strength comes from the bury.

    Your bury length starts AFTER your taper. i.e. start measuring for your bury past where the taper stops. The tapered part of the line is not considered part of the bury.

    Proper bury length is 21x the rope diameter or 7x circumference.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  7. #77
    Senior Member hikelite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    The bury is where the load is carried. The marlin splice will support a fair amount of load, but the majority of the strength comes from the bury.

    Your bury length starts AFTER your taper. i.e. start measuring for your bury past where the taper stops. The tapered part of the line is not considered part of the bury.

    Proper bury length is 21x the rope diameter or 7x circumference.
    hmmm my fixed ends might be a bit short then. I think the amount not tapered is probably only ~1.5-2" on 7/64 Amsteel. They don't appear to be danger of failing though. I thought by threading the rope through itself, that would also provide some of the strength. The bury just keeps it from coming apart, no?
    Life is hard? Compared to what?

  8. #78

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    Thanks opie for the explanation on what is carrying the load. I should be ok on my buries as I buried about 3" plus the taper. I did the math and 1 fid on 7/64 Amsteel works out to 2.29". Not as much safety factor as I thought I had but should still be enough.

  9. #79
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikelite View Post
    hmmm my fixed ends might be a bit short then. I think the amount not tapered is probably only ~1.5-2" on 7/64 Amsteel. They don't appear to be danger of failing though. I thought by threading the rope through itself, that would also provide some of the strength. The bury just keeps it from coming apart, no?
    Youre backwords... The marlin splice keeps it from coming apart. Without the marlin splice you would need to lockstitch the bury so under no or light loads it doesnt pull out.

    There is an added benefit of the marlin splice being able to carry some load, but its intention is to lock the splice.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  10. #80
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    Thank you for the guide, I've never done this before and this made it a breeze.

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