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  1. #201
    Member rocketBoy's Avatar
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    Is there any problem using a Sharpie to make the marks on the amsteel? When I was climbing I was advised not to use ink to mark ropes because the ink could weaken the rope. Any thoughts?

  2. #202
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    Many of us have been marking amsteel with a Sharpie for years. Never heard of a problem.

  3. #203
    New Member
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    Very helpful tutorial! Thanks!

  4. #204
    Downhill Trucker's Avatar
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    Baltimore, MD
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    Continuous Loop pictoral

    What's the smallest continuous loops anyone has done with Amsteel? I did some really small ones with a 3" bury on each side and I'm hoping they will hold up. I was thinking of putting some stitches through the burys. They are load bearing on my hammock.

    Thanks for any help.

  5. #205
    New Member
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    Aug 2012
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    Earth, MW
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    Great thread. Thanks!

  6. #206
    New Member
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    Jun 2013
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    Big Island
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    This was very helpful for me! Thanks.

  7. #207
    Very Clear instructions. Thanks for the tutorial.

  8. #208
    Member Ghillieshot's Avatar
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    Sweet. Very clear and detailed pictures and post. Thanks mate. Just finished a set.

  9. #209

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Noblesville, IN
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    Pointers for Noobs from a Noob (What I learned)

    First, thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread. It has been incredibly helpful. A month ago I could barely spell hammock - now I own 2 and am doing some DIY stuff.

    My comments below are things I learned in my first efforts to splice 1.75mm cord (Zing It) - hopefully it will help other new guys.

    Initial test efforts went well. Made 2 loops using homemade tool (22 gauge wire on a 4" dowel rod - Then things went south on the next few efforts! Summary of issues:

    1. Extremely had to pull cord for pass-throughs and bury
    2. Difficulty in threading tool through core of cord.
    3. Pulled so hard on tool that I broke 22 gauge wire.
    4. Tested my first loops and they held fine. Gave it to my 3 year old granddaughter to play with and within 5 minutes she had both loops out (they had 4" buries).

    After a fair amount of experimentation ( not necessarily in order) here is what I found to make this task easy and fun for me:

    1. Found that 20 gauge steel wire works best for me. 22 gauge was too small and didn't open the core channel enough. 18 gauge was too big and hard to thread through the cord core.

    2. When preparing for a cord "pass through" I insert my tool and then worked it around to enlarge the hole so that the cord passing through would go easily.

    3. I know many have said you don't need to taper Zing It, But I found it advantageous to do so for different reasons. I "shredded" the last 1/2" with a tack and cut away about 40% of the shredded strands. I then insert just the shredded portion of the cord in my tool for pull-throughs or buries. This reduces pulling effort dramatically.

    4. Prior to inserting my tool to start a bury I "massage" the cord in the bury area to loosen it up. (This stuff works just like a Chinese Finger Puzzle!) I then insert my tool and get it established in the center of the cord, while continuously "massaging" the cord to loosen and open it up. When I get to the exit with my tool I again enlarge the hole for easy entrance of the bury.

    5. Before beginning my bury pull I again insert just the shredded strands in my tool and slowly pull the tool to the bury opening and start the cord into the hole. I again "massage" the cord on my tool and then begin the pull by holding the junction of the start of the bury. Normally, I can continue to hold in that area and the pull goes through easily. I may have to "massage" the cord on occasion to keep it moving.

    6. Now for something that may be questionable or a good idea! (Let me know.) In order to keep my grand daughter from taking apart my loops I used some Super Glue in the following way.

    A. Milk the cord down on the bury so that only the shredded part of the cord shows. Put just a little liquid Super Glue on the shredded portion. Then rapidly and with force, milk the rest of the cord into position. If you do it slowly the glue will grab the cord and it will never get "milked" down all of the way.

    B. Put a drop of liquid Super Glue on the junction of the loop and bury. It will soak in. -- And granddaughters can't take it apart now. (Which is what I wanted in the beginning.)

    Hope this helps someone. Comments and suggestions welcome.

  10. #210

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    Okay, now I know how to do a locked brummel with fixed eye and I can get rid of my Super Glue. I'm learning - just not quickly!

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