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  1. #161
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    Thanks for all the helpful information here.

    I've started making some of these for my guylines, tried the locked and the unlocked. Not sure there is much benefit of the locked for a Prussik on a guyling.

    Using 14" of 2.2 Zing-It with 1.75" buries, is that enough bury?



    Prussik is a locked loop, and the other one is open.

    The larger needle is a #13 Birch Tapestry needle, and the other one I don't know the size, but it is fine for passing the bury. I use a pair of craft pliers to pull the needle through, couldn't do that with my fingers - not enough grip.

  2. #162
    SmokeBait's Avatar
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    Looks good photohiker. 1.75" is plenty of bury.

  3. #163
    New Member sawgrassbrothers's Avatar
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    When i get some time i would like to learn how to splice like that.
    Moane Labe -Leonidus
    (come and take them)

  4. #164
    Senior Member Morgoroth's Avatar
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    Do you leave the ends of the amsteel un-fused?
    Or do you fuse them? I guess once you bury the ends you don't have to worry about reeving.

  5. #165
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    Un-fused. In fact, it's best to taper the ends for a smooth transition.

  6. #166
    Senior Member Morgoroth's Avatar
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    I've been thinking about this and I think you only need one side to have the full bury for strength.

    The other side you could just hide the tail with a one or two inch bury and then put the 5"-6" bury on the other side for strength.

    I think that's right anyway......

  7. #167
    seadad9903's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgoroth View Post
    I've been thinking about this and I think you only need one side to have the full bury for strength.

    The other side you could just hide the tail with a one or two inch bury and then put the 5"-6" bury on the other side for strength.

    I think that's right anyway......
    You may be right, but I won't take that chance since I usually use them for supporting my weight. For a couple of minutes more work I get peace of mind that the likelihood of it coming apart is small
    i totally take back all those times i didn't want to nap when i was a kid

  8. #168
    Senior Member Morgoroth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seadad9903 View Post
    You may be right, but I won't take that chance since I usually use them for supporting my weight. For a couple of minutes more work I get peace of mind that the likelihood of it coming apart is small
    I'm not worried about the time, I'm trying to make a smaller loop that is still strong.

  9. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgoroth View Post
    I've been thinking about this and I think you only need one side to have the full bury for strength.

    The other side you could just hide the tail with a one or two inch bury and then put the 5"-6" bury on the other side for strength.

    I think that's right anyway......
    I believe you're on to something there. I've wanted smaller loops but stuck with the recommended bury length on both sides. Now that you've pointed this out, i can make my loops smaller. Thanks!
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  10. #170
    Member PAHikingTrails's Avatar
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    You need 40" of amsteel to make a 12" continuous loop?!? Wow, that's a lot of rope!

    Why not use a triple fisherman's knot? It will save you on half the rope and half the weight?

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