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  1. #141
    New Member last1up's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    NJ
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    WBBB & Traveler,ENO
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    Thanks for all that great info.

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by linxdev View Post
    West Marine sells these with smaller diameter and they appear to be uniform. Do they taper them? I can't believe what they charge for those small things. Is there a rule where if you own a boat you also have a million dollars?
    I saw a youtube video on making continuous loops for marine use. They have a core and a cover. The cover is made very much like what is shown on these pages. The core is where the strength is and it is multiple loops of a thinner material. On hammocks, you don't need the strength. I test my splices for my boat site, L-36.com using 7/64 Amsteel and it takes a lot of force on a 30:1 winch to break it. It is rated at 1600 pounds and if you are making a continuous loop with it, you have 3000 pound strength.

    You can tell if you are stressing it because it gets stiff when it is stressed. So, if you get off your hammock and can hold the line out and it doesn't limp over, you have stressed it. If it acts more like yarn, it hasn't been stressed.

    By the way, I saw someone talk about a 3 inch bury. I recommend 60 to 72 diameters of bury. That is plus or minus 3 fid lengths but you guys don't use fids so just do the diameter thing.

    Cheers,

    Allen

  3. #143
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Love your website, Allene222, though I wish it was more hammock-friendly. Hammockers use some rope diameters your calculator doesn't cover.

  4. #144
    Member
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    Dec 2011
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    West Michigan
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    Chinook 12x9.5'
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    Using your tutorial I have made three in the last 24 hours. Thanks!!!

  5. #145
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
    I've made loops as small as 6 inches in diametre. Certainly not recommended but so far they have held.
    I'm guilty of this as well. I add plenty of stitches.

  6. #146
    New Member
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    Sep 2011
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    Clayton, NC
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    Thanks Opie, you're a gentleman, and a scholar.

  7. #147
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    I re-read this post last night and felt compelled to make a 7/64" Amsteel continuous loop. I don't have any practical application for it at this time, but I'll toss it in the pack just in case.

    After I made the loop, I realized I forgot the tapers. Remarkably, it was pretty easy to get the ends of the buries out, taper, and then re-bury.

  8. #148
    Senior Member goobie's Avatar
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    Thanks Opie, well done as usual! Been making bunches of these out of whatever material I can splice

    Made a few out of amsteel for the hammock suspension, some out of mason line for the tarp

  9. #149
    New Member
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    scotland
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    Big thanks for this made a few for myself

  10. #150
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    Hey guys, just want to clarify a few points about how to make the continuous loop.

    The buries are the tails of each end doubled back into itself correct?

    Like so:






    I hope I have used the word brummel correctly.

    I'm trying to make sense of this post:
    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The usual direction for a locked brummel is the best I can tell you.

    Edited to add photo. The buries go in the direction the ends are laying in the photo.

    But maybe I'm understanding it wrong. It's not really clear in the original post as the ends of the tails are out of frame.
    Last edited by orangehero; 03-29-2012 at 14:24.

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