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  1. #211
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Continuous Loop pictoral

    Not sure but I wonder if the super glue would cause the loads to localize instead of being distributed along the bury?
    Knotty
    "Don't speak unless it improves the silence." -proverb
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  2. #212
    Thanks Opie...you make splicing look so easy

  3. #213
    Zilla's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    I agree with bubba once the loop goes under a good load it is unlikely to unravel.I also had alot of problems with the 7/64 as far as tapering and pulling it thru the bury and what i did was i purchased some amsteel blue 1/8 in, it is only one size bigger and runs 9 cents a foot more than 7/64, instead of using a home made fish tool i bought a selma splicing fid. They run for $7.99 and can be found at ubraidit.com, with these you dont have to taper the enda at all and you get more hold in the bury that way,you just have to reverse the way you go into your splice.It is really easy and once you get it down you will want to keep making these even if you dont need them! If you want to go this route , when you go to the website ( ubraidit.com ) just buy the smallest selma fid they offer, it may say for 3/16 but just ignore that and get the smallest one they have and it will work great , these fids are the nicest rope splicing tools out there

  4. #214
    darkbyrd's Avatar
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    I'm a big fan of my loop turner I bought at wal-mart in the craft section. A little tougher with zing-it, but great for 7/64.
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    and I must go...

    -John Muir

  5. #215
    Member ezhiker's Avatar
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    According to Samson, The taper is needed for maximum strength in the splice, to avoid too sharp a transition, which would degrade the splice.

  6. #216
    Zilla's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Tapering

    It is not exactly a taper that is required,sometimes they word it different but alot of splicers and speacialty shops dont taper ,what they do is cut the ends on a small angle,about a 45 degree angle,this allows a smooth transition while also saving on cord. I go around 350lbs and would trust my diy set up over anything on the market provided we are talking about the sme size cord setup.

    Before i started using the selma fids and making my own whoopies i did alot of research,i really meen alot , I dont doubt that you read that on a samsom website and if it gives you a better piece of mind than by all means taper, i dont think it is that big a deal.
    SAEDY

  7. #217
    new here but for my fishing tool i use some floral wire ... its plastic coated so it doesnt snag and its cheap

    http://www.amazon.com/22-GAUGE-PADDL...ds=floral+wire

    ya can get slightly bigger gauges, and most hobby stores and some walmarts carry it

  8. #218
    Banned
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    So cool. Glad I saw this.

  9. #219
    SimonMc's Avatar
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    Continuous Loop with Locked Brummel

    So for those who use the locked brummel in their loops I am wondering how they have gone long term? Any issues?

    I have got in some new rope here in Australia and the loops without the locked brummel seem to be easy to unravel, when not loaded, at least more so than the other rope I used.

    I have some destruction testing of this rope organised for whoopie slings etc so might do one for the loop with a locked brummel.

  10. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ploppy View Post
    ...I have some destruction testing of this rope organised for whoopie slings etc so might do one for the loop with a locked brummel.
    Please do. I'd love to see the results comparing continuous loops with and without a locked brummel.

    In the mean time, you can use lock stitching to protect your loops when unloaded.

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