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  1. #61
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acercanto View Post
    Is there any way to do a true locked brummel continuous loop? I've been pondering it in my head for a few days now, and I can't think of anything.

    Very curious,
    Acer
    Define "true locked brummel".

    If you mean such that the 2 strands are interwoven (marlin splices I believe they are called), then the manner that I have altered Opie's steps fits.

    If you mean that the 2 strands have to also lie along the standing part as in the locked Brummel for a fixed eye, then the answer is no for the simple fact that there is no longer a standing part.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

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  2. #62
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Okay my previous post is wrong.

    Opie's procedure as I altered it is a "true locked Brummel".

    I think the confusion comes about because people tend to think of the fixed eye made with a locked Brummel splice.

    There are 2 splices in the fixed eye:

    1. Locked Brummel splice
    2. bury splice


    Those are 2 different splices and not one splice.

    The continuous loop as I make them (and as altered above in step 5 of Opie's procedure) involves making a fixed eye with a "true locked Brummel" and then 2 buries instead of the single bury of the usual fixed eye. The buries involve burying the "standing part" and "free end" (really 2 free ends) from the fixed eye into the rope of the eye yielding a continuous loop with a "true locked Brummel".
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  3. #63
    PuckerFactor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    Define "true locked brummel".
    If you mean that the 2 strands have to also lie along the standing part as in the locked Brummel for a fixed eye, then the answer is no for the simple fact that there is no longer a standing part.
    I think that's what I mean. It's just Opie's standard way, except the two brummel "pass-throughs" are reversed so that they lock under tension, as in a LB eye splice.

    Clear as mud?
    Acer
    It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

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  4. #64
    Senior Member russmay's Avatar
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    Ok, so I made my first continuos loop. I used 7/64 yellow Amsteel. I made it with 30" with 5" spliced in on each side. I will use this for Prussic knots. I ended up with a loop that is 9" in length. I hope I did this right seems very strong and nothing is slipping out of place. I'll make a few more then tackle a whoopi sling next.
    "The real man smiles in trouble, gathers strength from distress, and grows brave by reflection."
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  5. #65
    Mrprez's Avatar
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    Would the formula be the same if I was using a larger rope? I need to make some tie down loops for the motorcycle and was thinking about using 1/2" ski rope. I need to make some 12" loops.

  6. #66
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Prez.... For anything thats going to bear any type of considerable weight or force, I use 6" buries.

    That being said, I dont use the Zing It for anything thats going to bear a considerable amount of weight.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

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  7. #67
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russmay View Post
    Ok, so I made my first continuos loop. I used 7/64 yellow Amsteel. I made it with 30" with 5" spliced in on each side. I will use this for Prussic knots. I ended up with a loop that is 9" in length. I hope I did this right seems very strong and nothing is slipping out of place. I'll make a few more then tackle a whoopi sling next.
    Sounds like you got it.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  8. #68
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrprez View Post
    Would the formula be the same if I was using a larger rope? I need to make some tie down loops for the motorcycle and was thinking about using 1/2" ski rope. I need to make some 12" loops.
    Mrprez - depends on the rope material.

    For buries, Samson recommends 2 fid lengths for class I rope (olefin, polyester or nylon) for the bury length, bury into 2 fid lengths

    They recommend 3 fid lengths for Class II rope (high modulus fibers - dyneema, spectra, technora, etc) for the bury length, bury into 3.5 fid lengths.

    1 fid is 7x the rope diameter.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  9. #69
    Mrprez's Avatar
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    I went with a 3/8" rope and 6" buries. The sizing worked out just fine and the loops are holding just fine. I'll be keeping a close eye on things. I also added backup tie outs to the front and the back just in case. Don't want a 900 lb motorcycle coming loose at 70 mph!

  10. #70
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    Mrprez - depends on the rope material.

    For buries, Samson recommends 2 fid lengths for class I rope (olefin, polyester or nylon) for the bury length, bury into 2 fid lengths

    They recommend 3 fid lengths for Class II rope (high modulus fibers - dyneema, spectra, technora, etc) for the bury length, bury into 3.5 fid lengths.

    1 fid is 7x the rope diameter.
    Actually 1 fid length = 21 x rope diameter or 7 x rope circumference.
    Knotty
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