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  1. #21
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    it shows how I did the loops in the straps that were giving on me.

    I think I did them that way, so there wasnt so much wasted strap, I dont really remember.

    I probably saw that type of reinforcment on one of the kids school backpacks or something.

    im not a good sewer, I just try stuff, and sometimes I am lucky enough to learn from the success, or failure of the outcome.



    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    ozrakjeep, is your second picture showing the way the "bar tack" was sewn or just an out line of the bar tack?
    a bar tack should be a zig zag back & forth over it's self several times.

  2. #22
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozarkjeep View Post
    it shows how I did the loops in the straps that were giving on me.

    I think I did them that way, so there wasnt so much wasted strap, I dont really remember.

    I probably saw that type of reinforcment on one of the kids school backpacks or something.

    im not a good sewer, I just try stuff, and sometimes I am lucky enough to learn from the success, or failure of the outcome.

    when i make the picture large, i can see that the stitch is sewn like the red out line shows it.
    i'm not surprised that one let you down my friend

    for a bar stitch, set your sewing mach on zig zag & sew forward, then strait back over the zig zag. repeat two more times.

    some may do more or less, but that's the basic idea for a single bar tack.
    you'll probably want to have at least 4 bar tacks about 1" apart. maybe as many as 7.
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

  3. #23
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    gotcha, thanks for the input.

    the next time I sew a strap I will try that method.

    for now though, my "X in a box" joints are holding well.
    and they take up less material than 4 bar tacks one inch apart 4 inches of attachment ( although they probably are not as strong)

    But, my daughter and I, have been in the hammock , and we weigh 250+ together.





    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    when i make the picture large, i can see that the stitch is sewn like the red out line shows it.
    i'm not surprised that one let you down my friend

    for a bar stitch, set your sewing mach on zig zag & sew forward, then strait back over the zig zag. repeat two more times.

    some may do more or less, but that's the basic idea for a single bar tack.
    you'll probably want to have at least 4 bar tacks about 1" apart. maybe as many as 7.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Preacha Man's Avatar
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    It must have been the pics, when I looked at them it only looked like you went over them once or twice, sorry. But you already had the idea and getting it to stay.
    Psalm 19:1-3 "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament sheweth his handywork. Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night sheweth knowledge. There is no speech nor language, where their voice is not heard."

  5. #25
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    Thanks for this idea, it works great. You can make this a no sewing conversion by using two spectra climbing runners. Just loop the runner around the rings and you have an instant custom treehugger with rings on the end. You do not have to make any modifications to your current hammock if it uses ropes like the HH. I have tried it a couple times and will be using on my hiking setup. I am going to go ahead and sew the ring buckles into some webbing like you described also.

    Again this is a great way to convert without cutting your hammock ropes etc.

  6. #26
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HANGnOUT View Post
    Thanks for this idea, it works great. You can make this a no sewing conversion by using two spectra climbing runners. Just loop the runner around the rings and you have an instant custom treehugger with rings on the end. You do not have to make any modifications to your current hammock if it uses ropes like the HH. .
    adjustable tree huggers... that's an improvement over being able to only adjust from loop to loop.
    but you still got tie the rope to the tree hugger each time... & be sure not to leave the tree hugger behind, hanging on a tree
    if you try the ring buckles or clinch straps, i believe you'll like them.
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

  7. #27
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    but you still got tie the rope to the tree hugger each time... & be sure not to leave the tree hugger behind, hanging on a tree
    Not really because you could still choose to add the biner to each end and leave it all together. This really isn't much different than the other setup you are just using less webbing, more rope, and pulling toward the hammock to tighten. The advantage is that you do not have to modify your hammock for it to work.

    P.S. I did not use the slap strap style just the basic loop in each end, did not see the need since I could pull the rope to take up slack.
    Last edited by hangnout; 08-19-2007 at 16:39.

  8. #28
    Senior Member greggg3's Avatar
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    Tree Dweller, thanks for the idea of using rings instead of biners. I've been using the biners with no issues, but obviously this saves some weight. It seems obvious now that you suggest it, and I don't know why this never occurred to me, but its a great idea. I'm switching for my next outing.

    On the webbing, I don't think the daisy chain is necessary. Just sew the rings in one end and a webbing loop in the other. Girth hitch the webbing around the tree (wrap around the tree, slide rings thru the loop and cinch down on the tree) and you can adjust the length by wrapping around the tree. As long as you wrap backwards from the girth hitch, it will grip the tree and will not slide/slip (if it doesn't slide, then it will not harm the tree bark).

    Thanks for a great weight saving idea.

  9. #29
    yeah, its just like the ring buckles + webbing, the wrap is even the same i think. wonder why no one figured it would work with rope as well.

    it should be considerably lighter. 15' of webbing is alot heavier than a 7' tree strap and 8' of spectra line. (same total length)

    as far as bartacks go, all the ones i've seen on climbing slings are done in one pass, not back and forth multiple times. a single pass with a super short stitch length will give a more consistant stitch pattern, and as result more even distribution of force to the webbing. although, since tree straps don't apply nearly as much force as a climbing fall, going back and forth would probably not hurt anything as long as you don't go back and forth too many times. but it would probably be strongest and easiest to stitch if you use the 1 pass zig zag with a super short stitch length if your machine has the option.

    as far as the "other" loops on the webbing go, they are not nearly as strong as the end loops. it is the same idea that a climbers daisy chain is based on. those loops are meant for bodyweight only, they are not full strength like the end loops. the force is pulling differently to those stitches, prying them apart, not pulling in-line with them like on the end loops.


    Quote Originally Posted by HANGnOUT View Post
    Not really because you could still choose to add the biner to each end and leave it all together. This really isn't much different than the other setup you are just using less webbing, more rope, and pulling toward the hammock to tighten. The advantage is that you do not have to modify your hammock for it to work.

    P.S. I did not use the slap strap style just the basic loop in each end, did not see the need since I could pull the rope to take up slack.

  10. #30
    well said.


    Quote Originally Posted by greggg3 View Post
    Tree Dweller, thanks for the idea of using rings instead of biners. I've been using the biners with no issues, but obviously this saves some weight. It seems obvious now that you suggest it, and I don't know why this never occurred to me, but its a great idea. I'm switching for my next outing.

    On the webbing, I don't think the daisy chain is necessary. Just sew the rings in one end and a webbing loop in the other. Girth hitch the webbing around the tree (wrap around the tree, slide rings thru the loop and cinch down on the tree) and you can adjust the length by wrapping around the tree. As long as you wrap backwards from the girth hitch, it will grip the tree and will not slide/slip (if it doesn't slide, then it will not harm the tree bark).

    Thanks for a great weight saving idea.

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