Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1
    canoeski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South-central Wisconsin
    Hammock
    HH UExpl; WBBB; JRB BMBH
    Tarp
    CCS; HH Hex; WB Su
    Insulation
    MW-3, Sierra Sniv
    Suspension
    Woopie, Dutch Clip
    Posts
    319

    Hennessy conversion to rings/whoopie sling

    OK, I'm ready to take the plunge: I have experimented with whoopie slings for a week in my back yard (6-7 nights) and have now used them on 2 outings (4 nights). I'm convinced of their utility despite some minor drawbacks.

    It took me an hour to make my first WS, mostly learning that darned locked-brummel eye splice. (I still get one part wrong half the time. Grrrr) I now feel confident to proceed.

    Here's what I want to do: using a closed loop of Amsteel, I want to thread one end (doubled up) through the HH holes (just as if it was an end eye splice), and then pass the remaining end through a ring with a larkshead. Similar to what Grizz did here:




    I will need to make the loop as small as possible so the ring is as close to the hammock as possible.

    One question is: when making the loop, can i pass one end into the other with out a locking stitch?? i don't see how a Brummel would work in this application. A test loop seemed to work and i couldn't pull it apart, but that's not the same as hanging your body weight from it.

    (Thanks in advance to Ken, Knotty, Grizz, and Opie for their prior instruction and wisdom)

    ~bill
    Not all who wander are lost.

  2. #2
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Hammock
    Grizz Bridge
    Tarp
    Etowah, gargoyle
    Insulation
    Wool, heater
    Suspension
    Varies
    Posts
    3,140
    You can do that..... I dont use lock stitches in mine and havent had one come apart yet. Pulled one apart, or tried to before the biner broke, and it didnt budge. TeeDee does do a locked brummel on his.. It is possible but I havent seen the need for it. If its weighing on your mind, throw a lock stitch in it, wont take but a minute.

    Sounds like you are on the right track as well. You can build the fixed eye of your sling into the ring to, rather than larks heading it. Just an option.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

    Kris on Facebook

  3. #3
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Hammock
    DIY Bridge, v0.n, where n is large
    Tarp
    depends on season
    Insulation
    DIY UQ
    Posts
    4,628
    Images
    564
    Quote Originally Posted by canoeski View Post
    ...
    Here's what I want to do: using a closed loop of Amsteel, I want to thread one end (doubled up) through the HH holes (just as if it was an end eye splice), and then pass the remaining end through a ring with a larkshead. Similar to what Grizz did here:




    I will need to make the loop as small as possible so the ring is as close to the hammock as possible.

    One question is: when making the loop, can i pass one end into the other with out a locking stitch?? i don't see how a Brummel would work in this application. A test loop seemed to work and i couldn't pull it apart, but that's not the same as hanging your body weight from it.

    (Thanks in advance to Ken, Knotty, Grizz, and Opie for their prior instruction and wisdom)

    ~bill
    the Brummel or locking stitch is to keep the end from pulling out when the cord is not under load. If you were to approach this in just the way you describe then best to toss in a locking stitch by hand, just in case.
    Last edited by GrizzlyAdams; 06-06-2010 at 08:28.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  4. #4
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Hammock
    Grizz Bridge
    Tarp
    Etowah, gargoyle
    Insulation
    Wool, heater
    Suspension
    Varies
    Posts
    3,140
    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    the Brummel or locking stitch is to keep the end from pulling out when the cord is not under load. If you were to approach this in just the way you describe then best to toss in a locking stitch by hand, just in case.
    If when you make these... If you start your buries as close to the interection of the lines as possible, there really isnt any way they will "fall" apart. Since you cant really load only one bury at a time, the chances of it coming apart are slim to none.

    At least in my observances... Its not like the bury on a UCR...where only one end really gets loaded. This is where the chinese finger trap really demonstrates how the constrictor will lock up.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

    Kris on Facebook

  5. #5
    canoeski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South-central Wisconsin
    Hammock
    HH UExpl; WBBB; JRB BMBH
    Tarp
    CCS; HH Hex; WB Su
    Insulation
    MW-3, Sierra Sniv
    Suspension
    Woopie, Dutch Clip
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    You can do that..... I dont use lock stitches in mine and havent had one come apart yet. Pulled one apart, or tried to before the biner broke, and it didnt budge. TeeDee does do a locked brummel on his.. It is possible but I havent seen the need for it. If its weighing on your mind, throw a lock stitch in it, wont take but a minute.

    Sounds like you are on the right track as well. You can build the fixed eye of your sling into the ring to, rather than larks heading it. Just an option.
    Thanks Opie. I haven't been able to test a closed loop to failure or slippage (hope not to). To be clear, what I have in mind is not a carabiner loop, nor a whoopie sling, but just a loop with each end buried into the the other. I did make it with the bury entrances as close as possible to the cross over point.
    I'm not sure how you could do a locked brummel from both sides.
    Not all who wander are lost.

  6. #6
    canoeski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South-central Wisconsin
    Hammock
    HH UExpl; WBBB; JRB BMBH
    Tarp
    CCS; HH Hex; WB Su
    Insulation
    MW-3, Sierra Sniv
    Suspension
    Woopie, Dutch Clip
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    the Brummel or locking stitch is to keep the end from pulling out when the cord is not under load. If you were to approach this in just the way you describe then best to toss in a locking stitch by hand, just in case.
    When I "quoted" your picture above I didn't realize that the link wouldn't enlarge as the original did. So, Ill try again:

    [IMG]

    (OK, I can't get the image to come full size to see the detail) Here's the link:

    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&imageuser=423

    And the finishing knot:

    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&imageuser=423

    (what exactly is the finishing knot?)

    So, last night as I was falling asleep, It dawned on me (literally): "why not just do it as Grizz did and forget the loop altogether?"

    My goal is to get the ring as close to the hammock as possible. And I generally use the larks-head (or better, double larks-head, as you have) to spread the load, prevent sliding and therefore friction and wear.

    (man, is this geeky or what )

    ~bill
    Not all who wander are lost.

  7. #7
    canoeski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South-central Wisconsin
    Hammock
    HH UExpl; WBBB; JRB BMBH
    Tarp
    CCS; HH Hex; WB Su
    Insulation
    MW-3, Sierra Sniv
    Suspension
    Woopie, Dutch Clip
    Posts
    319
    OK, I did it and tested it last nite in the rain. Worked well.

    After some experimentation, I wound up using Grizz's method just tying it off (rather than a closed loop). This allowed for about a very short (1 to 1 1/2 " long) line between the hammock and ring. The tricky part was tying off the final bowline with only a micro loop ("rabbits hole") to go through. I had to use a small surgical clamp to pull it through.

    I like the ring as a water stopper and a place to tie off the HH undercover suspension elastic. And the ring allows for rapid replacement of the whoopie sling.

    I'm happy,
    ~bill.
    Not all who wander are lost.

  8. #8
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Hammock
    DIY Bridge, v0.n, where n is large
    Tarp
    depends on season
    Insulation
    DIY UQ
    Posts
    4,628
    Images
    564
    Quote Originally Posted by canoeski View Post
    OK, I did it and tested it last nite in the rain. Worked well.

    After some experimentation, I wound up using Grizz's method just tying it off (rather than a closed loop). This allowed for about a very short (1 to 1 1/2 " long) line between the hammock and ring. The tricky part was tying off the final bowline with only a micro loop ("rabbits hole") to go through. I had to use a small surgical clamp to pull it through.

    I like the ring as a water stopper and a place to tie off the HH undercover suspension elastic. And the ring allows for rapid replacement of the whoopie sling.

    I'm happy,
    ~bill.
    good job ~bill. The knot is hidden under the wrapping cover, there is not enough tension on it to worry about whether you ought to be using a splice to avoid degrading cord strength, and you can get that ring very very close to the hammock. well done.

    ah, hope that rabbit was wearing a stopper knot for a hat. Just in case of some slippage, stopper knot can keep the line from slipping through the rabbit hole. Once he's back in that hole you want to be sure he stays there.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  9. #9
    canoeski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    South-central Wisconsin
    Hammock
    HH UExpl; WBBB; JRB BMBH
    Tarp
    CCS; HH Hex; WB Su
    Insulation
    MW-3, Sierra Sniv
    Suspension
    Woopie, Dutch Clip
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    good job ~bill. The knot is hidden under the wrapping cover, there is not enough tension on it to worry about whether you ought to be using a splice to avoid degrading cord strength, and you can get that ring very very close to the hammock. well done.

    ah, hope that rabbit was wearing a stopper knot for a hat. Just in case of some slippage, stopper knot can keep the line from slipping through the rabbit hole. Once he's back in that hole you want to be sure he stays there.
    Well, no hat. But I tucked it's 3" long ears back under the 3 wrappings. This was mostly cosmetic and not structural. I sort of thought the bowline was the "stopper" to keep the wrapping "knot" from slipping. The whole arrangement seem to be self constricting, and I dressed it pretty snug.

    I'm on my way to test it again in the pouring rain.

    ~bill.
    Not all who wander are lost.

  10. #10
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Hammock
    DIY Bridge, v0.n, where n is large
    Tarp
    depends on season
    Insulation
    DIY UQ
    Posts
    4,628
    Images
    564
    Quote Originally Posted by canoeski View Post
    Well, no hat. But I tucked it's 3" long ears back under the 3 wrappings. This was mostly cosmetic and not structural. I sort of thought the bowline was the "stopper" to keep the wrapping "knot" from slipping. The whole arrangement seem to be self constricting, and I dressed it pretty snug.

    I'm on my way to test it again in the pouring rain.

    ~bill.
    yes, that's true, there isn't much pull on that knot. But that's precisely when bowlines come undone, when not under tension!

    That tuck you did is safe enough insurance
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •