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  1. #101
    New Member apnonimus's Avatar
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    Opie, this is a great little tutorial. I tried a nacarabiner yesterday with a very similar tutorial you did, and for some reason the loop on the end doesn't slide...at all. I like this one because while it uses a bit more line (the other thread said 12"), I'm confident the bury won't pull out because of the knot at the end. And it feels really heavy duty, even with 7/64.

    Now, to get out and do something, or continue splicing . . . addicted :-)

  2. #102
    New Member apnonimus's Avatar
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    ...ahh, it doesn't slide because it's a locked brummel. something new every day!

  3. #103
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    ran into trouble once i got to the final step. i can't seem to "close the lock". meaning, once i tie the stopper knot, i can't milk the loop closed

  4. #104
    Moderator raiffnuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wags View Post
    ran into trouble once i got to the final step. i can't seem to "close the lock". meaning, once i tie the stopper knot, i can't milk the loop closed
    How did you make your opening? Or did you make the opening to big and the bury is already milked as far as it goes?

  5. #105
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Wow. That was really easy. Thanks Opie! I was just about to go buy four carabiners but these are better. Boy, 200 ft. of Amsteel Blue can sure go fast. Using the great tutorials from Opie and others on HF, I've made four whoopie slings, some soft shackles, and I'm about to make an adjustable ridgeline whoopie.

    This beats the hell out of remembering knots. I actually carry a laminated card in the field with instructions on how to tie eight basic knots: Square, two half hitches, taut-line hitch, bowline knot, timber hitch, clove hitch and sheet bend. With soft shackles, whoopie slings and fixed eye loops, I may never tie a knot again out on the trail!

    In all my years of Scout camping, I never saw any Scouts learning these techniques of rope splicing. I'm sure the Scouts are more savvy now, but it would have been nice to have known this stuff about 20 years ago! My life would have been so much easier.
    Using a hammock with adjustable suspension system would have made camp setup so much easier. Getting 15 Scouts to setup tents can take hours.

    Thanks again.

  6. #106
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    Made my first one today -- thanks for the instructions!

    I have a few questions regarding the knot. First of all, what exactly is this knot? I poked around looking at 'diamond' and 'double overhand' knots and neither seemed to be what is going on here.

    I took a photo of my current knot:

    The black mark represents where the gap is between buries. As you can see, my gap is exactly opposite of where it should be. I know it needs to be on the 'back' side of the knot, but is it better to be in the middle or outside? In other words, would it be better if my gap was closer to the end of the rope or further away?

    Also, I'm not really sure what the end backsplice is for. Is it structural or purely cosmetic? While I was messing around trying to get my weak area in the right place, it made me wonder why we have a weak area at all. Could you not just tie the knot entirely on the primary bury?

  7. #107
    Member linxdev's Avatar
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    Short bury

    Some of you guys are posers You get a hammock, some slings, and camp once of year. You now call yourself a hanger

    I've been hanging since June of 2010. Almost every day. I had some sleep issues and through hanging and losing weight I'm now getting much better rest. In my home office I have a metal hammock stand and my hammock is made from a queen bed sheet. I use an ENO out in the field.

    I used a 1' piece of change with 1" links to make adjustments in the hang but have replaced them with short 7/64" amsteel blue slings. This sling needed to be a max of 1.2' fully extended so the bury is only about 2.5 to 3"!! I've used this sling for 3 months straight with no issue in the sling.

    I've only experienced one problem that is hammock related. I've ran 550 in the hem of my sheet and use this with a soft shackle to connect to the sling. The shackle can cut through the 550. I've tried plastic and rubber tubing to protect against this but after one night the blue cuts through that. Luckily the 550 has stood up for the last month. I'm thinking of replacing the 550 in the hem with the amsteel. Would only take me a foot of rope on each end of the sheet.

    For those that want to conserve rope it is possible to use shorter buries. I used a 9" bury on the sling I made for my ENO.

    Chris

  8. #108
    Member linxdev's Avatar
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    Diamond knot.

    I've never liked that method. It does look good but I don't get good feelings about it. Those that make these for real loads and sell them to sailors simply use a diamond knot (a.k.a lanyard knot) instead. It may take about a foot extra of material so you have enough extra to tie the knot, but that is how I've done it and will always do it.

    I've also added washers to the loop so that I don't accidentally bury it. If you do that it is hard to get back. The shackles I've mentioned above have used o-rings for the same purpose but I have no o-rings.

  9. #109
    Member linxdev's Avatar
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    I've thought about using a metal washer at the base of the stopper knot to make sure the shackle can not slip or slide off the knot. Your knot looks tapered and this would concern me. A Diamond not is not as tapered.

  10. #110
    Senior Member JasonJones's Avatar
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    Looks like a double overhand knot... I like the diamond knot, I can tie them with about 3" tags or so for each leg, and after tying a few dozen they are easy enough.

    I take a pair of vise grips and grab the tag ends and cinch the knot really good with my body weight. This makes the diamond knot hard like a bead. Then I trim my tag ends with about 3/4" or so hanging out in case there is any slippage.

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