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  1. #301
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    I wouldn't use RTV. It tends to peal off. I used it thinned down to seal the inside of a soft ice chest bag. I had to give it a good thick coat cause the thin coat I started with began to peal off as soon as it was dry.
    The methods talked about here are different than the surface coating you used on the ice chest. Our goal is to get the silicone to impregnate the threads of the material and not just sit on the surface.

    I imagine that all consumer silicones are RTV (room temperature vulcanization) since we're not applying heat to turn the product from liquid to solid.
    Knotty
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  2. #302
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    I just had breakfast with a friend who sells chemicals, including various silicone based products. He told me of one application that I did not know about... GasX! It's straight PDMS!
    So has anyone tried GasX as MacEntyre suggests?
    "Pips"
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  3. #303
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pipsissewa View Post
    So has anyone tried GasX as MacEntyre suggests?
    It's got to be the most expensive source of "Simethicone" available... manufactured using pharmaceutical GMP standards by Novartis. However, I suppose you could carry a couple of tablets in your backpack, and mix it with denatured alcohol to have a small amount for a field expedient patch.
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
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  4. #304
    Senior Member harrell79cj5's Avatar
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    I am about to do my first DIY Sil project tomorrow. I started a thread to tell about it http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...747#post415747

    I will update how it goes on there. I plan to use the 100% silicone and oderless mineral spirits....

  5. #305
    If the fabric isn't treated with dwr, it should be pretty absorbent. I'm betting a thin enough mix could be brushed on and still fully absorb. You'd might want to hit both sides, but I bet that would do the trick. It gets mashed in even more as you're trying to wipe off the excess.

  6. #306
    Senior Member harrell79cj5's Avatar
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    Yeah, that is kinda my plan, to brush on both sides. The fabric doesn't seem to have any kind of coating, in fact BWDD states it as not downproof, so most likely pretty absorbent.

  7. #307
    Senior Member Bomber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    If the fabric isn't treated with dwr, it should be pretty absorbent. I'm betting a thin enough mix could be brushed on and still fully absorb. You'd might want to hit both sides, but I bet that would do the trick. It gets mashed in even more as you're trying to wipe off the excess.
    If a fabric has a coating(for fire resistance or dwr) do you then have to wash it first or will it still bond to the fabric?
    /Bomber.LTD
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  8. #308
    i don't know, the fabric i used was non-calendared without dwr

  9. #309
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    I did a patch of DWR, it soaked up the solution nicely...
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  10. #310
    Senior Member
    Formerly 'TroutEhCuss'
    Trout's Avatar
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    This would be a great cottage industery business service! Does the cost of buying non silnylon and coating it actually pan out, better than just purchasing silnylon from the start? Mind you, I have my own camo ripstop waiting to be finished and DIY sealed.
    I like big hammocks - I cannot like.

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