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  1. #401
    New Member Chembrew's Avatar
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    I'm new to this whole hammock area, but I earn my living as a professional chemist making silicone products for personal care and textile applications. That being said, I would still never consider trying to waterproof ripstop nylon myself as an effective way of achieving desired results. Lightweight 1st quality silnylon is totally worth the price of admission. My customers apply 800 - 3000 psi between rollers in the process of impregnated nylon and it's light and very consistent. Perfect in general. The better silicone can be two part and catalyzed during the process to crosslink and form a very durable bond. I love this forum and do not say this to discourage anyone from trying and succeeding in their efforts to do anything themselves. I just think the exposure to the solvents and not a good idea for most people. I say that from nearly a lifetime of working with this stuff and this application of solvents are very dangerous and should be discouraged unless you like taking risks with your lungs, liver and and fire.

  2. #402
    Rain Man's Avatar
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    Question

    THANKS, Chembrew! Good stuff. What about "rehabilitating" sil-nylon? Is it worth the trouble then? I've never made rip-stop into sil-nylon, but have fixed leaky sil-nylon stuff sacks, etc.

    Rain Man

    Quote Originally Posted by Chembrew View Post
    I'm new to this whole hammock area, but I earn my living as a professional chemist making silicone products for personal care and textile applications. That being said, I would still never consider trying to waterproof ripstop nylon myself as an effective way of achieving desired results. Lightweight 1st quality silnylon is totally worth the price of admission. My customers apply 800 - 3000 psi between rollers in the process of impregnated nylon and it's light and very consistent. Perfect in general. The better silicone can be two part and catalyzed during the process to crosslink and form a very durable bond. I love this forum and do not say this to discourage anyone from trying and succeeding in their efforts to do anything themselves. I just think the exposure to the solvents and not a good idea for most people. I say that from nearly a lifetime of working with this stuff and this application of solvents are very dangerous and should be discouraged unless you like taking risks with your lungs, liver and and fire.
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods
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  3. #403
    Senior Member egrant5329's Avatar
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    I agree with basically all the points Chembrew made and did mine just see how well it would work on a tarp. I haven't used my tarp multiple times and my sil coating ended up heavier than I would prefer, however my first attempt at creating my own nysil was on a homemade bicycle seat cover. I have wadded it up probably 200 times and had it on my seat for several months now in the rain, sun and snow. So far it looks as good as when I made it and is completely waterproof. Basically it has exceeded my best expectations.
    Ed

  4. #404
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chembrew View Post
    I'm new to this whole hammock area, but I earn my living as a professional chemist making silicone products for personal care and textile applications. That being said, I would still never consider trying to waterproof ripstop nylon myself as an effective way of achieving desired results. Lightweight 1st quality silnylon is totally worth the price of admission. My customers apply 800 - 3000 psi between rollers in the process of impregnated nylon and it's light and very consistent. Perfect in general. The better silicone can be two part and catalyzed during the process to crosslink and form a very durable bond. I love this forum and do not say this to discourage anyone from trying and succeeding in their efforts to do anything themselves. I just think the exposure to the solvents and not a good idea for most people. I say that from nearly a lifetime of working with this stuff and this application of solvents are very dangerous and should be discouraged unless you like taking risks with your lungs, liver and and fire.
    Thanks for chiming in, Chembrew. It's always good to get advice from the experts.
    Knotty
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  5. #405
    New Member Chembrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Man View Post
    THANKS, Chembrew! Good stuff. What about "rehabilitating" sil-nylon? Is it worth the trouble then? I've never made rip-stop into sil-nylon, but have fixed leaky sil-nylon stuff sacks, etc.

    Rain Man
    I was really only referring to making yardage of it. Everything else is fun and practical for DIY I'm making my first blackcap tarp and will use ideas from this forum to make my own seam sealer. I bought the silnylon from tree to trail. It's pricey in general and worth every cent.

  6. #406
    packeagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Man View Post
    THANKS, Chembrew! Good stuff. What about "rehabilitating" sil-nylon? Is it worth the trouble then? I've never made rip-stop into sil-nylon, but have fixed leaky sil-nylon stuff sacks, etc.

    Rain Man
    I was on another forum and henry shires (of tarptent) chimed in and suggested useing silicone spray found in many sporting good stores to "rehabilitate" sil. He suggested that one can or about 2oz of silicone can prevent "misting" in the sil. Here is a video made by Franco, Tarptents Australian distributor where he applies the spray to a double rainbow tarp tent. Although its on a tent it would apply to a sil tarp as well.


  7. #407
    Member Jumpin Joe's Avatar
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    I may give this a try, it would save a few bucks from buying sil.

  8. #408
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    So i decided i would make my own sil. I did a little test piece today. I used a half gallon of mineral and 1 tube of caulk. I'm waiting on the piece to dry but it seemed to work pretty well and if the piece i made is water tight tomorrow ill be doing the whole tarp sometime next week.

    Now for a few questions, Is 1 tube of caulk and a half gallon of mineral spirits a good ratio?

    Any tips for how to do this with a whole tarp? Doing just the small piece i realised how hard doing the full thing is going to be.

    And will letting this dry outside overnight be a problem? I plan on hanging a larger blue polly tarp over it to try to keep as much stuff off as possible because unfortunately i don't have a garage to hang the tarp in.
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  9. #409
    Rain Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pj1008 View Post
    Now for a few questions, Is 1 tube of caulk and a half gallon of mineral spirits a good ratio?
    Folks use any ratio from 3-to-1 to 10-to-1, spirits-to-silicone. I use 4-to-1. Whether you go by weight or volume doesn't matter.

    I've never done a whole tarp, but would recommend two things-- do it outside (plenty of ventilation) and wipe or scrape off all excess. You want the silicone down in the holes between the threads, not as a coating.

    Beware, if I don't use it right away, mine "sets up" on me after I mix it and will not last 24 hours or so. Gets either really gooey or just firm. Unusable in either case.

    Rain Man

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  10. #410
    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    I have a DIY sil tarp. If your looking for a light weight backpacking tarp, buy the sil-nylon. If you just want the wow factor and car camp, then a DIY tarp with DIY sil is nice. The DiY sil on a full tarp adds alot of weight. Just my .02.
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