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  1. #1
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    Fabric recommendation for down fill?

    I am in the early stages of planning for a down UQ, TQ, pillow and who knows what else.
    I searched around and could not find the answers I was looking for.

    Are there fabrics that should or should not be used for down filled items?

    I know UQ should be able to breath. At least I thought I read that somewhere. Does that mean no more than one side with silnylon? Does this matter on pillows and TQ?

    Suggestions are appreciated.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    I'm in the process of (badly) making an underquilt. (Straight seams? in my dreams...) Regular nylon ripstop works fine. You can get DWR for the outer shell if you prefer. Momentum is what I would get for a top quilt (more expensive, but feels real nice on the skin).

  3. #3
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    What is DWR?
    I have what i suppose is 1.9 ripstop from joann's.

  4. #4
    Burning at both ends Dblcorona's Avatar
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    Durable Water Resistant. And Silnylon is inpregnated. It doesn't have a treated side. If you are looking at some of the fabric places on line like Seattle Fabrics, Quest, Thru-hiker, etc, it will usually say down proof.

  5. #5
    MAD777's Avatar
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    I use 1.1 ripstop with a DWR on the underquilt, but on the top quilt, I use momentum on the side in contact with me and 1.1 on the other side. The weight difference is small and 1.1 is quite a bit cheaper than momentum.

    Although I prefer breathable underquilts, some have advocated non-breathable (usually cuben), at least for winter camping near the single digit temps or below. A kind of a vapor barrier effect, but the jury is still out on that one.

  6. #6
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    I would also say - use the less expensive before you tackle a project with more expensive materials. The momentum is more fiddly and lighter than 1.1 ripstop. 1.9 is pretty heavy by comparison but probably a good place to start.

    Oil and tune your sewing machine. New, fine point needle in too. Gutterman's thread, no cotton. Sew some practice seams before you start the actual project.

    Seconds are available too - they work as well as firsts and are a few bucks less.

    Oh, and don't get aggressive with the stitch ripper or you end up patching the material before it's even a quilt yet. Siiiiiiiiiiiiggggggghhhhhh....

  7. #7
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    Can someone explain how the baffell netting is sewn?
    Looking around at other peoples projects I see that they are strips of mesh or noseum spaced 5-7" apart and roughly 2-3" wide. They are sewn to the bottom layer of material and then I am lost on what to do next. Are they also sewn to top layer of material as well? The photos i am seeing are not real descriptive.

  8. #8
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    The thing to look for: There are downproof and non-downproof materials.

    Downproof nylons are typically Hot Calendared (i.e. run through a set of hot rollers) This tightens up the weave, or something, preventing the shafts of down from sneaking out....

    Not all nylon fabrics are downproof.

    If you're looking for cheap, Sclittlefield has green and camo 2nds (1.1oz/yd) that look good and, if I remember right, are downproof...
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  9. #9
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    down proof

    I've used the rip stop sold by JoAnns on all my down projects, it works fine.
    Never more than one man left behind, so far !

  10. #10
    Burning at both ends Dblcorona's Avatar
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    The baffle is sewn to the top and the bottom material. Think of it as the letter "I".

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