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  1. #1
    Dutch's Avatar
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    1 inch continuous loop

    I have been trying to come up with very small continuous loop. I want to attach it to my bridge corners so I can remove the suspension with a Dutch Biner. The best I have come up with is a locked brummel with 5 inch tail. I'm not sure if the brummel can handle the load and was looking for a better way. Locked brummels take some strain the way we use them but not pulling directly apart. Anyhow anybody have any good idea to make a 1" continuous loop?
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  2. #2
    Redoleary's Avatar
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    If you used 1/8 " or 1/4" amsteel and if you could only get a 1/2" bury on either side of the brummel, you would technically be hanging on the brummel, but should be OK, b/c whatever the brummel derates the line strength to should still be within your load range b/c of the initial high strength of the thicker line. Make sense?
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  3. #3
    Senior Member StumpJumper's Avatar
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    Dutch - I made a very small continuous loop with a thimble on one end. The bury on each side is closer to 1.5 inches. Holds absolutely fine.

    Check out this thread:

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=24674
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuckerFactor View Post
    Or loopshackle? Just splice in the diamond knot a couple inches back up the standing line, and have the end loop around and hook into the knot.
    Diagram included for lack of descriptivity:
    bridgeloop.jpg

    PF
    Quote Originally Posted by Knotty View Post
    I'd go with a soft shackle. Just can't see how you'd make a continuous loop that small.
    Guys soft shackles and loopshackles don't exist.......la la la la la I can't hear you and they don't exist.
    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    you talking about the suspension triangles? why not connect the them to the hammock via larkshead?
    I wan tis to be easily removable because it is for my new bridgskin. I should have put those metal triangles on the corners but it is too late for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Redoleary View Post
    If you used 1/8 " or 1/4" amsteel and if you could only get a 1/2" bury on either side of the brummel, you would technically be hanging on the brummel, but should be OK, b/c whatever the brummel derates the line strength to should still be within your load range b/c of the initial high strength of the thicker line. Make sense?
    I tried this last night but the 1/2" bury cam out. Then I made a 2" shackle with a 1" bury and that seamed to work. I will have to test it out to see if it will hold some weight.
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  5. #5
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    Dutch: I can not find it. I was reading in an arborist tree climbing form that 5 passes thru the rope (like 2 S's in series) was an acceptable way to spice in the field. It was tested to be the same as a locked brummell and a fid bury.

  6. #6
    Poppabear's Avatar
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    Dutch, I am in a similiar predicament as you. This past weekend I made my first bridge hammock. With all the measuring, cutting and sewing. I accidently forget to sew in my rings at the four corners. After spending most of the day at the project. There was no way that I was going to rip the ends apart to put in the rings. After much head scratching the solution I came up with was to. Insert my 7/64 amsteel suspension lines through a 2 inch pieces of clear vinyl tubing. Then inserted that through my corner loops. And then I spliced a locked brummel eye. The other end of the line was tied to the ring at the peak of my suspension triangle. I'm using 3/4 PVC pipe with wood dowels inserted as my suspension bars for now. The vinyl covered loops work just fine with this set up. Perhaps something similiar to this could work for you.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Terry

  7. #7
    Dutch's Avatar
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    PB that is what I am doing only I just want the locked brummel so I can detach the suspension tiangle via 4 Dutch Biners. I was able to make the brummel and then bury each end in teh brummel. I didn't test it yet but it looks like it will work. However I have to do it next time with the tubing and on the hammock which should make it interesting. Then I have to do it 8 times because I have 2 to do.
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  8. #8
    WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    Guys soft shackles and loopshackles don't exist.......la la la la la I can't hear you and they don't exist.
    Knotty was right, but in case soft shackles actually didn't (don't) exist, it would be (is) your responsibility to invent them.

    I use soft shackles on things that I rarely need to (but sometimes do) need to detach. I use Dutch Biners for ease of connecting and disconnecting with verve, style and elan. Mollified yet?

    One type of soft shackle that you should invent for this application is the type that Opie made with a bury instead of two strands. It is shown here. Pay attention to the stopper knot, though. It's supposedly not as secure as a lanyard knot, but easier to tie. This type is more trouble than most to fasten and unfasten, which is why it makes a good connecting point for a Dutch Biner. It's basically a loop with a lump in it (the knot).

  9. #9
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    WV: Here is a video on making the soft shackle with a lanyard knot.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH66tGsWv_Y

  10. #10
    PuckerFactor's Avatar
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    Make a 2" CL, and double it over. It'd be 2 loops, but still better than nothing.
    OR, you could use 7/64" amsteel as a sheath for 5 or 6 turns of Zing-It.... Enough turns that the amsteel is "full" and constricts. Probably more work than it's worth. :-/

    PF
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