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  1. #1
    Senior Member exup's Avatar
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    help picking a thread Injector

    Sorry if this has already been discussed. I looked pretty far back and used the search option couldn't find much.

    I'm fairly new at all this so you'll have to forgive me. I've decided I need a thread injector. I grew up using one but sure has been awhile. My question is, what do I get? I know that's very broad but so far I've only came up with 1950s american and german are the way to go. I would like to be able to sew some typical stuff, stuff sacks, backpacks, tarps, polyester webbing, etc. I guess I really don't know where to start. Are there some brands I should be looking at? Should it be heavy duty idustrial type?

    Thanks for all the help.

  2. #2
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Check my "guidelines" post in my signature. You might find that helpful.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  3. #3
    gargoyle's Avatar
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    How much money do you want to spend?

    Most use a basic sewing machine. All you need is a straight stitch. Some folks like the extra stitches, (zig-zag, overcast, etc.) but it is not neccessary.

    Consew, Juki, Pfaff are some of the higher end models available. But some of these can run several $100's to several $1,000's.
    Singer, Brother, White and others are also popular.
    Visit your local sewing center for a good example of whats available.

    Avoid plastic gears.
    Old school machines are generally indestructible. All this depends on maintainence and how abused the machine was in its previous life.

    Several folks have found machines on the cheap. Local garage sales, hand-me-downs from family or friends, etc.

    Brand names are kind of decieving.. alot of the machines are built by the same company and labeled differently on the outside only. So don't get stuck in the mind set of one brand.
    If you have the chance to see the machine run, do it. Do not buy a machine that you can't see run. Check that it sews straight and all the functions work. Learn how to thread it correctly.

    Ask around, maybe someone you know has one collecting dust?
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  4. #4
    Senior Member exup's Avatar
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    Thanks rev, I started watching you're series but didn't get to far because my internet started having trouble so now I'm stuck on my blackberry.

  5. #5
    Senior Member nacra533's Avatar
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    Most of this is covered in Rev's videos but...

    Older is often better than newer because of:
    metal gears and parts vs. plastic
    made in USA, Germany, Taiwan vs. China

    But, the newer computerized models have a lot features and the reality is we don't sew heavy fabric so plastic gears are not really a concern.

    I strongly prefer industrial type machines with the motor under the table but they are tough to store and you have to get used to the clutch motors. I have a Singer 20U and a Bernina 217N-8 and they are both really good machines. The Brother TZ1B652 is a good machine. It has a 10mm (I think) zig zag. You don't typically use a 10mm zigzag, but the wider feet and feed dogs really help with the feeding.

  6. #6
    Senior Member exup's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I really appreciate all your advices. They've already hrlprf a great deal. Originally I was thinking about going with a new singer. Something simple in the $150 or less price range. But I'm really not in a super hurrt, just have all these ideas in my head and instructions on here so I'm getting antsy. I think now ill just look around for a month or two for an older machine and if that doesn't work go with the new. I know at a thrift store near me they had 4 of them and ranged from $10 to $20. Worth a double check.

    I'm also thinking about the sewing classes as well. I've called a few places and it seems fairly cheap. I assume ill only need to take the basic. To bad the don't have a "ultralight backpack build 101" and a "under/top quilt making/working with down" haha.

  7. #7
    Senior Member skyclad's Avatar
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    like Nacra says, the older all-metal machines will run forever if adjusted, cleaned and lubed periodically. to me the zig-zag stitch is important for things like sewing a loop or other onto a tree sling. the Singer 237 is a tank - frequently selling on ebay for less than $50, some less than $20.

  8. #8
    Senior Member nacra533's Avatar
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    I would not hesitate to purchase a machine from a thrift store IF:

    1. It runs
    2. All parts are there, footpedal, power cord, etc. Be sure to check the bobbin and bobbin case.
    3. It looked good, no rust or degradation
    4. if was not a cheap newer model that was a peice of junk to start with.

    If the machine runs, it means its working, so if it doesn't stitch well, it's probably just timing. It would be rare that one is damaged beyond reaonable repair.

    I'm a big fan of craigslist. Usually the owner is proud to show you how well the machine runs and stitches.

    A quick search on craiglist found these I would consider.
    http://columbus.craigslist.org/bar/2112715204.html - the kenmore with the cams is a good machine. My mom has had that one or one very similar for 30+ years. She complained it didn't stich well, so I was going to re-time it. After I cleaned it and "eyeballed" the timing was still close, it worked great.

    http://columbus.craigslist.org/atq/2115930624.html
    Last edited by nacra533; 12-20-2010 at 12:58. Reason: added craigslist

  9. #9
    New Member jumpmaster's Avatar
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    I use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 machine and it can handle just about anything I want to do...I've made notebook covers with multiple layers of 1000D Cordura nylon and it works pretty well for that even...I just have to help the wheel along a bit. They have an LSZ-1 that will do zig-zag also, if you need that. I got mine on ebay several years ago for a pretty good deal.

    But for lightweight stuff like nylon for hammocks, it would be perfect and should last forever. Mine has a nice, metal chassis...really looks and feels very high quality. The customer service was very pleasant to deal with also when I wanted to order binding attachments and other misc. items...

    Best of all, it's assembled in the USA.
    Last edited by jumpmaster; 12-20-2010 at 13:48.
    Like my avatar? Want a custom bracelet and a great way to carry spare cord? Check out my website!

  10. #10
    Senior Member millarky's Avatar
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    I have an antique, nay, ancient World's Rotary all metal one stitch wonder, with hieroglyphics painted on the side in charcoal . It is a mighty fine machine that my mom used and prolly Betsy Ross before her; if not Cleopatra's seamstress. One day last fall I found myself wanting a machine I can carry around without a front end loader. Off to my local quilting shop I went in search of an affordable Husquvarna Viking. I returned home with the E20 and couldn't be happier. solid machine with lots of options. OK, so I can't embroidry the Hammock Forum logo on the side of my tarp but I can do a bunch of other cool things with it. BTW, they seem to be perpetually "on sale" for $199. Pretty good price for a machine that will last you and your offspring and prolly their offspring yada yada yada.....

    Happy hunting

    http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/17650_17651.htm
    The gene pool needs a life guard.

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