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  1. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by QChan View Post
    ...And by dremel I did mean sand a divot into the wood. I just didn't know how to say it. Haha. Thanks, I've been trying to think of how to explain/say it for days.
    The short tree strap (you can use a full length one) may get a better bite on the pole and not slip.

    Another way would be to use 5 minute epoxy to build up a raised bump or ring on the pole.

    Got any old inner tubes from a bicycle tire (or rubber drawer liner)? cut a strip and put it between the loop and pole. There are lots of ways to skin this cat.

  2. #132
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
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    Slipping cords....

    For you guys having problems with your cords slipping on the "ridge pole"...why make it so hard? This is a piece of thin wall metal tubing, right? Don't bother with epoxy, knots, straps, etc. Drill a hole all the way through and install an eyebolt. If you're worried about crushing the tubing you can put another short piece of smaller tubing inside to act as a spacer.

    If you don't feel comfortable with drilling all the way through both sides then just sink a couple of self tapping screws near the ends. The heads will act as a simple stop for most any knot/lashing.

  3. #133
    Senior Member shumway's Avatar
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    Zuki, that's a great suggestion. I thought of that actually. The main thing preventing me from doing it is I want the pipe without projections to catch on things when I store it. I suppose a wingnut for easy removal would work. Hmmmmmmm

  4. #134
    Senior Member shumway's Avatar
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    An added benefit of an eyebolt- if you put it outboard of your hang loops, the ring will prevent the pole from sliding out and falling.

  5. #135
    Senior Member QChan's Avatar
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    I debated drilling a hole in the ridge pole. But didn't because of esthetics. Small I know, but it matters to me.

  6. #136
    Senior Member shumway's Avatar
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    I played with the stand a bit tonight. I really wanted to use my whoopies. I recalled another diy stand with a cool trick. This stand by oldgringo is the one.
    He looped the whoopies around the ends and back to a central point.

    I think we could replicate this method pretty easily. One method would be an eyebolt in the ends of the ridge pole. I didn't have any eyebolts so improvised another trick. I hooked a snap link on each end of my pole. I strung the whoopies through the links and joined the whoopies together with a carabiner. I tightened the whoopies and climbed in the hammock. By golly it worked!

    I didn't get pictures. The wind started blowing and made me nervous that the predicted thunderstorm might be close. I packed everything up and put it away.

  7. #137
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    Warning!!!

    I made a TL Tri stand two night ago. I made the center peice from a chain link fence top rail I had from a previous hammock stand. While laying in it last night the the center connector split and my son and I hit the tile floor and pipe landed on us. Correction, my butt landed on the tile floor my dude was sitting on my stomach. Pipe landed on me cause I put my arms up in an "oh damm im falling" manuver. I think I will go with a larger pipe to make the conection instead of a inside fitting peice.


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  8. #138
    Senior Member KerMegan's Avatar
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    yah, those connectors are supposed to be on the outside; so they will not slip out of alignment!

  9. #139
    Senior Member QChan's Avatar
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    That sucks that you got a hurt bum, but I'm glad your son is okay.

  10. #140

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    Jazilla -- I am very sorry you fell, but glad your reflexes averted injuries from the falling pipe. Although when loaded the compressive force should hold it together, separation of the pipe sections can happen when getting in or out, or if the unloaded stands are bumped. One host where I stayed insisted I tape the joint with duct tape just to prevent this, but I was uneasy because I like to SEE the connection to know it is seated properly.

    I would like to understand how you put the connector inside the top rail. My Available top rail at my local suppliers is definitely smaller than the connector and the rail pipe fits inside the connector. Once loaded the restriction of the connector holds it in place. With the connector as an inside piece it could move anywhere? Does top rail come in various diameters? Did your connector actually split, or did the parts separate from one another?

    Using only the dovetailing connection that comes on the original top rail pipe is my preference. For my most recent stand, I splurged and used two male/female ended pipe sections, and the third center piece had two female ends. This eliminates the looser fitting connectors all together. Ideally, I would like to drill holes through the connection area to put a small bolt through as insurance.

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