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Thread: Why a taper?

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    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    Why a taper?

    Making some of the various amsteel "byproducts", that some of them tell you to taper. Now if I am correct the taper is just cutting out half of the strands (7/64 amsteel= 8 strands=cut 4). Is this for strength? Too keep it from breaking? To keep it from pulling out?
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    PuckerFactor's Avatar
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    If you don't taper, then there is a sudden change in diameter where the inner line stops, which causes uneven weight distribution among the outer line strands, which leads to line failure. Which is bad. So we taper to make the diameter change more gradual.

    Make sense?
    PF
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    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Also, a taper is a lot easier to pull than a straight cut.
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    TY PF and OG!! That's what I was thinking, but couldn't nail it down.
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    Senior Member samjaynes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuckerFactor View Post
    If you don't taper, then there is a sudden change in diameter where the inner line stops, which causes uneven weight distribution among the outer line strands, which leads to line failure. Which is bad. So we taper to make the diameter change more gradual.

    Make sense?
    PF
    Wow - Thanks for asking... I was wondering the same thing. What is the average length of a taper 1"?

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    Alamosa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuckerFactor View Post
    If you don't taper, then there is a sudden change in diameter where the inner line stops, which causes uneven weight distribution among the outer line strands, which leads to line failure. Which is bad. So we taper to make the diameter change more gradual.

    Make sense?
    PF
    I wouldn't think the "sudden change in diameter" at the end of the bury would really have that much impact. Especially compared to where the bury enters. The outer strands at that point definitely have some uneven weight distribution. I believe that is the weak/failure point. I haven't done or seen any destructive tests to know for sure though.
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    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alamosa View Post
    I wouldn't think the "sudden change in diameter" at the end of the bury would really have that much impact. Especially compared to where the bury enters. The outer strands at that point definitely have some uneven weight distribution. I believe that is the weak/failure point. I haven't done or seen any destructive tests to know for sure though.
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    PuckerFactor's Avatar
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    In a whoopie sling, you're correct, Alamosa, where the adjustable part enters the braid is where it fails. Opie has done several destructive tests. I usually just cut the end of my amsteel at a nice shallow angle, but here's the proper lengths for stuff.
    splicinglengths.jpg

    PF
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    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    I too havent yet grasped the need to taper the tail, but any entrance for a bury is OK.

    However, I do taper. It looks and feels far more professional.

    Vanity, whoda thunk it.

    Something else that strikes me as odd is the only place Samson demonstrates a Locked Brummel is with the whoopie sling. There regular eye splices are lock stitched and require 3 fids.

    Brion Toss suggests that when using the Locked Brummel, 1 fid is usually sufficient since the marlin splice carries quite a bit of load. I saw a destruction test on just a marlin splice once, but cant find it now.
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    Senior Member thekalimist's Avatar
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    not sure about the function of the taper is after being buried but I agree with what was earlier posted. I think it ends up looking 100X better with a properly done taper as well as its 20X easier to pull. /my2cents.
    Last edited by thekalimist; 01-28-2011 at 00:45.
    ...in it for pics.

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