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  1. #11
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrTiles View Post
    You've got me thinking. Could I make whoopie type tensioners for my tarp pullouts and such? Fixed eye on one end for larks head ties and whoopie on the other end for infinite adjustment?
    You could, but it would not be the best choice. Whoopies are difficult to adjust when under tension.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    You could, but it would not be the best choice. Whoopies are difficult to adjust when under tension.
    Agreed. Tried a whoopie tarp ridgeline and that didn't last long too long when I realized that I couldn't get a tight pitch.

    If you are looking for infinite adjustability, splice both ends of your guyline to make dead eyes. Tie a small piece of accessory cordage (any cordage with a smaller girth than your actual guy line) to the tieout on the tarp and prussik the accessory cord to the guy line. You can now move the entire length of guyline up and down to achieve the infinite adjustability you mentioned.

  3. #13
    Senior Member HamMike's Avatar
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    Splicability is a good option IMO. I put locked brummels on all the stake ends and buried the tarp end with continuous loops prussic onto that end. I just larksheaded the cintinuous loop on the tie outs. Talk about neat and tidy. I dig it. My two cents ifn ya wanna try it.
    "He who makes a beast of himself, gets rid of the pain of being a man." Dr. Hunter S. Thompson

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  4. #14
    Senior Member rip waverly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tendertoe View Post
    Agreed. Tried a whoopie tarp ridgeline and that didn't last long too long when I realized that I couldn't get a tight pitch.

    If you are looking for infinite adjustability, splice both ends of your guyline to make dead eyes. Tie a small piece of accessory cordage (any cordage with a smaller girth than your actual guy line) to the tieout on the tarp and prussik the accessory cord to the guy line. You can now move the entire length of guyline up and down to achieve the infinite adjustability you mentioned.

    what he said.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=5QcS0RFz-sE
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  5. #15
    Senior Member exup's Avatar
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    Z-line spectra cord from Z packs.

    1.25mm -.55oz/50ft = 1.10oz/100ft
    1.5mm - .88oz/50ft = 1.76oz/100ft

    Looks like the 1.25mm is the winner, but I believe its braided but sheathed so splicing wouldn't be an option. I wonder how it does with tangling? Dynaglide being a close 2nd to my knowledge isn't bad with tangling, splices great, and is very strong.

  6. #16
    MrTiles's Avatar
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    for the record, I got some braided mason line from HD today. I'll be making up rig similar to Grizz's youtube vid in this thread in the coming days. If it ever stops raining, I might get to try it out in the field...

  7. #17
    Senior Member bonsaihiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HamMike View Post
    Splicability is a good option IMO. I put locked brummels on all the stake ends and buried the tarp end with continuous loops prussic onto that end. I just larksheaded the cintinuous loop on the tie outs. Talk about neat and tidy. I dig it. My two cents ifn ya wanna try it.
    That's what I have on my JRB 11x10, only I have silicone tube tarp tensioners installed. Using 2.2mm on the tie-outs with 1.75 mm loops. Now, I am starting to have a much harder time adjusting the line through the prussiks. The prussiks are becoming much more difficult to "massage" loose, too. Is this just the nature of the coated lines? Has anyone else had this issue?

    I'm not trying to hijack--in fact I think this is something you should consider before buying the lines. I am about to disassemble my setup and just use a marlin hitch on the stake or even use ATTroll's method, which could be used with Speer No Tangle very well, and simply, IMO.
    --Scott <><

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  8. #18
    MrTiles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rip waverly View Post
    Okay, I've watched this a few times. Question. What is the loop for the prussic made out of? I was under the assumption the prussic rope needs to be a smaller dia than the main rope you are sliding it along. It appears all the rope is 1.75 dyneema. Regardless, I'm going to mimic this set up for my tarp and aux pull-outs on my lighthiker. Looks like a nice set up...

  9. #19
    Senior Member G.L.P.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrTiles View Post
    You've got me thinking. Could I make whoopie type tensioners for my tarp pullouts and such? Fixed eye on one end for larks head ties and whoopie on the other end for infinite adjustment?
    i just started playing around with this a month or 2 ago...so far i haven't had any problems...but they are right you can't adjust it once you have it set...so make sure you get it nice and tight befor you even stake in the side tie-outs
    out ......
    It puts the Underquilt on it's hammock ... It does this whenever it gets cold

  10. #20
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrTiles View Post
    Okay, I've watched this a few times. Question. What is the loop for the prussic made out of? I was under the assumption the prussic rope needs to be a smaller dia than the main rope you are sliding it along. It appears all the rope is 1.75 dyneema. Regardless, I'm going to mimic this set up for my tarp and aux pull-outs on my lighthiker. Looks like a nice set up...
    I've started using 1.5mm Sterling rope for all my prussiks on my Dynaglide - 4 wraps to hold better.

    I do believe that is Zing-It on Zing-It in the video. You can get by with the same size diameter (smaller is better). I haven't used Dyneema on Dyneema but I have used 2 mm on 2mm accessory rope with pretty good success.

    Once you have the adjuster down. Add some tensioners and you'll really be cooking. I use these - the best guyout setup for me (3rd post down). Tell us what you end up with.
    Last edited by Tendertoe; 02-13-2011 at 12:48.

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