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  1. #1
    Senior Member HangingKayaker's Avatar
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    another question about line

    Is mason's line just that, what a bricklayer would use to mark a level course of brick??

  2. #2
    Senior Member MrTiles's Avatar
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    yes, that's correct. there's braided and then there's regular twine. Look for braided b/c it's spliceable (sp?)...

  3. #3
    Senior Member HangingKayaker's Avatar
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    thanks for the quick response

  4. #4
    Senior Member Syb's Avatar
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    MtTiles is right on. I used to do some masonry and I used it to level block - both brick and cinder block - as well as to mark boundaries. The stuff is tough and pretty good for guy lines although tangles easily. I actually use Zing-It (thanks for the tip Dylan) from the tarp down to a continuous loop of about 12" of mason linelarksheaded (sp?) on to my stakes. There is more wear and tear at the stake end so rather than replace the Zing-It, the mason line is way cheap and easy enough to replace. Enjoy the splicing of this versatile line!
    Syb
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Syb - No need to worry about wear on the Zing-It. In addition to high tensile strength, dyneema has very high abrasion resistance.
    Knotty
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Syb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knotty View Post
    Syb - No need to worry about wear on the Zing-It. In addition to high tensile strength, dyneema has very high abrasion resistance.
    Well, when the guy's name happens to be Knotty, you gotta trust him about line! Thanks for the info. Now I'm off to splice a whole bunch of continuous loops out of my Zing-It. I wound up using old gutter spikes as tent stakes, drilled a hole through them near the head and then threaded the continuous loop through the hole in the stake and pseudo-larks head around it. I was just wondering if that hole would create any friction but as you state, very high abrasion resistance so I'll give it a go. Thanks again Knotty.
    Syb
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    The hole drilled in the gutter spikes could have sharp edges, something even Zing-It could have trouble with. Make sure to deburr the hole.
    Knotty
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Syb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knotty View Post
    The hole drilled in the gutter spikes could have sharp edges, something even Zing-It could have trouble with. Make sure to deburr the hole.
    I did experience a few sharp edges and wound up attaching a file from this small hobby-kit of various rasps/files to my drill. Turned out pretty well. Thanks again for looking out Knotty.
    Syb
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  9. #9
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syb View Post
    I did experience a few sharp edges and wound up attaching a file from this small hobby-kit of various rasps/files to my drill. Turned out pretty well. Thanks again for looking out Knotty.
    A good way to deburr small holes such as what you have are the diamond rasps sold at JoAnne Fabrics (or Hancock Fabrics??). They are cone shaped with various sized cones and the points vary from very blunt to almost needle sharp. I have found them to be excellent for deburring small holes. They were designed or originally meant for use on bead work. There are about 4 or 5 in a package.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Syb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    A good way to deburr small holes such as what you have are the diamond rasps sold at JoAnne Fabrics (or Hancock Fabrics??). They are cone shaped with various sized cones and the points vary from very blunt to almost needle sharp. I have found them to be excellent for deburring small holes. They were designed or originally meant for use on bead work. There are about 4 or 5 in a package.
    That is an excellent tip TiredFeet, thanks so much. Tomorrow I just might have to find another excuse to head to JoAnne's.
    Syb
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