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  1. #11
    Dutch's Avatar
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    WBG, I have been using bra clips sewn on 1/4 elastic. You can see on my blurry picture holding on my overcover. Grizz is right, it may work well for a door. Even may make it completely removable for summertime. If I get to work I bet I could add one to my blackcat by the hangout next weekend.

    Peace Dutch
    GA>ME 2003


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  2. #12
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    That looks great WBG. I had though about adding a single end flap on my DIY hex tarp. I didn't think it would work that well but I was obviously mistaken. It looks like it works beautifully. Nice job. I'm very impressed.
    “Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." -Terry Pratchett



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  3. #13
    tight-wad's Avatar
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    Beautiful!

    Looks great! Neat and clean.

    I am working on a cat tarp now and have a question that is in a new separate thread that you and others have obviously figured out. Don't want to clog up this thread with a side issue...

  4. #14
    yes, seems to work well, but depending on how far in from the end your side pull tabs are, the panel may not sit well inside when it is tied up. basically, i had to make sure the side pull tabs were close enough to the ends for it to swing inward and properly attach to the ridgeline. if your tarp doesn't work like mine did you might just have to figure out a way to roll the door up and tie it out of the way, which would probably work great too.

    i will probably move the corner pull tabs out another inch or two on the 2nd version for this very reason.


    dutch, did you buy those hooks somewhere, or did you scavenge them? great idea, i bet they weigh next to nothing

  5. #15
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    thoughts on "one door" design

    I really like the tarp and how tight it sets up. Also, I like the idea of fewer stakes to finagle.

    A thought on the setup:

    It would appear that with only one "door" per end, the pitch is critical. It would seem to me that if the pitch isn't right within a few inches, the "doors" will not match the end opening and either you will have a bigger gap or the doors will overlap the sides. The latter isn't as much of a problem, but if the doors aren't big enough for a wide pitch, you are going to have gaps. Setting up and getting the pitch "just right" could be problematic at times. It seems like it would take a lot practice at different sites to get the knack of judging the pitch just right for the "doors." The "doors" seem to become a limiting factor then in the setup. Also, if the "doors" are too big and overlap the sides, either you will have to arrange for different tie-off points between the "doors" and the sides or you will have flapping "doors" in any breeze.

    If the above really isn't a problem or can be overcome in the design somehow, then I think you have a real winner there.

    With 2 "doors" this wouldn't be as much off a problem since the "doors" could be designed for a really wide pitch and then overlapped as the pitch narrowed.

  6. #16
    good insights.

    as for setup, you simply attach the door to it's counterpart before you pitch it, this actually sets the perfect pitch if you will, and everything is exactly where it needs to be. you still need to judge the correct ridge height to keep the edges close enough to the ground for the conditions, but that seemed pretty easy.

    as for a steeper pitch, my design couldn't go much steeper, the tarp is already 2 full pieces wide, staking it much steeper would likely result in a tarptent being too narrow (for diagonal sleeping anyway) (keep in mind you don't want your feet protruding into the side of the tarptent, especially if it is wet due to condensation)

    i designed it so that in the worst weather, simply use the setup you see in most of the pics and seal the door if necessary. if the weather isn't too bad, you can raise the un-connected side, which would keep you from being able to seal the door, but you likely wouldn't need a tight seal if the weather is calm enough to raise that side anyway. basically, you should only need to seal the door in the worst of conditions, and the tarp has one setup that enables this. in better conditions, or with one of the 3 closed sides facing into the wind, you shouldn't need that tight seal.

    i intended it to be used as more of a 3 sided wind barier in all but the worst conditions, and this is where it is the most versatile. keep in mind it can be used as a regular tarp with the panels folded in as well.

    hope that answered a few of the questions

  7. #17
    as for doors overlapping the tarp, like i said you won't get too much overlap due to the tarptent quickly becoming too narrow, but the end flaps themselves should be able to be pitched tight enough even individually to reduce flapping.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    I really like the tarp and how tight it sets up.
    yeah, there are some wrinkles in spots though , i think the ones near the ridge are simply due to me cranking it a little too tight.

  9. #19
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    That makes sense - you really only need the doors for a tight pitch. Thus designing/making the doors wider isn't necessary and narrower isn't either.

    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    good insights.

    as for setup, you simply attach the door to it's counterpart before you pitch it, this actually sets the perfect pitch if you will, and everything is exactly where it needs to be. you still need to judge the correct ridge height to keep the edges close enough to the ground for the conditions, but that seemed pretty easy.

    as for a steeper pitch, my design couldn't go much steeper, the tarp is already 2 full pieces wide, staking it much steeper would likely result in a tarptent being too narrow (for diagonal sleeping anyway) (keep in mind you don't want your feet protruding into the side of the tarptent, especially if it is wet due to condensation)

    i designed it so that in the worst weather, simply use the setup you see in most of the pics and seal the door if necessary. if the weather isn't too bad, you can raise the un-connected side, which would keep you from being able to seal the door, but you likely wouldn't need a tight seal if the weather is calm enough to raise that side anyway. basically, you should only need to seal the door in the worst of conditions, and the tarp has one setup that enables this. in better conditions, or with one of the 3 closed sides facing into the wind, you shouldn't need that tight seal.

    i intended it to be used as more of a 3 sided wind barier in all but the worst conditions, and this is where it is the most versatile. keep in mind it can be used as a regular tarp with the panels folded in as well.

    hope that answered a few of the questions

  10. #20
    Dutch's Avatar
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    dutch, did you buy those hooks somewhere, or did you scavenge them? great idea, i bet they weigh next to nothing
    I have been calling them bra clips, but they are really called "Hook and Eyes". They weigh nothing an cost nothing and hold better than velcro. I sew them on elastic because they are so strong and only attach by a couple of stitches that I am afraid of tearing if it were not for the forgiveness of the elastic. 1/4" elastic is a little small and 3/8 may be better. So far I used them on 3 projects and I'm sure I will be using them on more. Only downside I see is you have to hand sew them on, I'm not to fond of hand sewing.

    Here is a link, but any place with a sewing department should have them.
    http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.j...&source=search
    Peace Dutch
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