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  1. #11
    neo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greggg3 View Post
    I looked at it on the website but it says it weighs 2 lbs, this is almost a pound heavier than the speer or jrb (although I guess if I get wet, it doesn't matter how much it weighs)
    13 oz heavier,but half the price plus its a bigger tarp,plus its od green
    my 2 nd favorite color neo
    the matrix has you

  2. #12
    Senior Member greggg3's Avatar
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    thanks Griz, thats exactly the info I was wondering about on the JRB - I think I would want the longer ridgeline since the claytor no net is 10' long. Also it looks like the Speer has cat cuts on the "doors" as well. Maybe I'll call and ask about that brown color (although I don't see any mention of it on their website). I'm thinking/hoping the claytor will end up being my main winter backpacking hammock.

    As much as I like the bridge (you know how it is with something you sew yourself), its a little more hassle trying to get the tarp set up over it without having the hiking poles rub the tarp. I've seen the stuff you've done with the hangar tarps and all, I just see myself going with a simpler/lighter setup for longer winter hikes (sort of the same reason I'm going with pads instead of an underquilt) so I'm starting to plan around the no-net (although I don't even have it yet, but I trust Neo's opinion).

  3. #13
    neo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo View Post
    13 oz heavier,but half the price plus its a bigger tarp,plus its od green
    my 2 nd favorite color neo
    i like the 2 extra feet in length to neo
    the matrix has you

  4. #14
    neo's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by greggg3 View Post
    thanks Griz, thats exactly the info I was wondering about on the JRB - I think I would want the longer ridgeline since the claytor no net is 10' long. Also it looks like the Speer has cat cuts on the "doors" as well. Maybe I'll call and ask about that brown color (although I don't see any mention of it on their website). I'm thinking/hoping the claytor will end up being my main winter backpacking hammock.

    As much as I like the bridge (you know how it is with something you sew yourself), its a little more hassle trying to get the tarp set up over it without having the hiking poles rub the tarp. I've seen the stuff you've done with the hangar tarps and all, I just see myself going with a simpler/lighter setup for longer winter hikes (sort of the same reason I'm going with pads instead of an underquilt) so I'm starting to plan around the no-net (although I don't even have it yet, but I trust Neo's opinion).


    i would never steer you wrong bro neo
    the matrix has you

  5. #15
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greggg3 View Post
    thanks Griz, thats exactly the info I was wondering about on the JRB -
    As much as I like the bridge (you know how it is with something you sew yourself), its a little more hassle trying to get the tarp set up over it without having the hiking poles rub the tarp.
    I'm hearing you loud and clear. The tarp is turning out to be the biggest issue with hanging in the bridge. Without tricks it's hard to pitch things close up around the hammock (but tricks are fun... ) In winter it is worse if you have layers of UQ because you need to pitch high enough to keep from dragging on the ground.

    Grizz

  6. #16
    Senior Member pure_mahem's Avatar
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    What if you were to pitch the tarp using two ridgelines one on each outside edge of the tree this would give you the daimeter of the tree extra in the pitch. Just a Thought.

  7. #17
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pure_mahem View Post
    What if you were to pitch the tarp using two ridgelines one on each outside edge of the tree this would give you the daimeter of the tree extra in the pitch. Just a Thought.
    It's a good thought, I've mused on it before. You'd need to put in extra tie-outs on either side of the center; You'd have to pick your one-size-fits-all distance. Without these, if the tarp just rests on the parallel lines and then is tensioned up then I'd think the tendency would be for the lines to be forced together in the center. In fact you may need to use some sort of spreader stick to separate them at the ends. Maybe even inside in the middle...wherever there is a downward pull.

    but then you've created a bathtub for water to pool in.

    I've not taken the time to work the angles and lengths to see what the benefit is.

    there are other non-standard pitching geometries that are fun to think about. One thing is clear, that the standard A frame pitch is hard to close up around the bridge.

    Grizz

  8. #18
    Senior Member pure_mahem's Avatar
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    Next thought what about putting a spreader bar under the ridgeline say about 3 to 4 inches one on each side of the tarp. this would create a small pitch just enough for the water to roll off and then you could pitch the sides at a steeper angle.

  9. #19
    Senior Member FanaticFringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    I'm hearing you loud and clear. The tarp is turning out to be the biggest issue with hanging in the bridge. Without tricks it's hard to pitch things close up around the hammock (but tricks are fun... ) In winter it is worse if you have layers of UQ because you need to pitch high enough to keep from dragging on the ground.

    Grizz
    Grizz I see you making yourself a bigger tarp than the JRB tarp for your bridge in the near future. Has it crossed your creative mind yet?
    "Every day above ground is a good day"

  10. #20
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FanaticFringer View Post
    Grizz I see you making yourself a bigger tarp than the JRB tarp for your bridge in the near future. Has it crossed your creative mind yet?
    I wish I could do with less actually. I have some ideas to try out this summer.

    For this winter, I extended the JRB tarp so that it's 10' x 13', the 10' is the ridgeline. The extra foot on each side hangs vertically, the main suspension tension continues to be on the given tie-outs. I did this after I noticed that in order to both get the walls down to the ground following the slope of the support poles, AND keep the hammock high enough to keep a double layer of UQ from dragging on the ground, I needed about another foot of elevation.

    The tarp footprint on the ground is about 10' x 8', so if used as a tent alone you could get four ground-dwellers in there, if they were friends.

    So the whole hammock hanger with doors and extra walls and poles and 2.8mm Spyderline ridgeline and tie-out cords and stakes and not-glow-in-the-dark-thingamabobs fits in a not-neo-anymore tarp bag, and weighs 2 lbs 4 oz when inside that tarp bag. Basically on the order of a Henry Shires tarp-tent. 'cept I get to hang inside of it!

    But is way too much tarp for the summer. It's probably way too much tarp for the winter too...the size is a side-effect of hanging the hammock high and still avoiding the spreaders hitting the tarp walls.


    Grizz

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