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  1. #11
    STinGa's Avatar
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    arrow shaft trimmings

    I was able to pick up the trimmings from arrow shafts at a local outdoor store were they cut the arrow shafts down to size for the hunters. I got a handfull of the trimmings (10 pieces about 9" long each) for free.

    Can't beat that price.

    STinGa
    Sarcasm is a dying art.

    Eagle Scout September '85 Troop 339 Smyrna, TN

  2. #12
    Senior Member RePete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmitchell View Post
    Would that still be ok? or would that put more pressure on the toggle material?
    In the configuration you are showing you need to have a real strong toggle. If you can break your toggle by hand it will have zero chance of holding you if you are asking the toggle to take your weight directly. The marlins spike takes all the weight on the knot a toggle through a loop with the whoopie wrapped around the toggle is putting all the weight on the toggle and that is a lot of weight when you consider the forces exerted when you get into the hammock or roll around.
    Pete.
    The opinions expressed by this user are not those of a competent individual. If they were that would mean I know what I am talking about.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    The set up you're thinking about, G, is not as flexible as a marlin spike hitch in your tree huggers. You can set a marlin spike hitch ANYWHERE along the length of your tree huggers' tails (from right up against the trunk of the tree, to all the way out to the end using the sewn loop over the tail to form the knot). I used to use your proposed set up too until I realized how much more flexible a marlin spike hitch is. Also, I ditched my gutter spike toggles (kept dropping them in the woods) and I just use sticks found in camp. I try to use "drift wood" (sticks that have shed their bark and are smooth and very hard). They're clean and smooth and easy on the tree huggers. Shorter is better than longer and I err on the thicker side after reading threads about marlin spikes.

    See threads on the subject:

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...=failed+marlin

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=14982


    Good luck!
    Last edited by Pipsissewa; 03-21-2011 at 14:09.
    "Pips"
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    In quiet covers, cool and gray.

    ---Leigh Buckner Hanes

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    Surely, God never did.

  4. #14
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    Thanks all. Good points on using the marlin spike hitch instead of a fixed loop.

    I will check out that knot.

    Thanks.

  5. #15
    canoebie's Avatar
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    I use cheap biners and it gives me yet another place to hang stuff like stuff sacks, etc. I use ones without the notch on the gate allowing the knot to slide right through when I want to release it.
    Revolution is about the need to re-evolve political, economic and social justice and power back into the hands of the people, preferably through legislation and policies that make human sense. That's what revolution is about. Revolution is not about shootouts.

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  6. #16
    Senior Member greggg3's Avatar
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    I've been using the cut off tips of large knitting needles from Walmart for the marlin spike for a couple years now. Not sure what size...they are about 3/8 to 1/2" in dia. Like someone else said, real purty color - mine are a metalic blue. Cut off about 3.5" inches of the pointy end, sanded the cut edge and drilled a hole for mason line loop to keep them tethered so I don't loose em. I'm about 230 lbs and never had a problem with them.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmitchell View Post
    I am new to hammock camping, I have read a great deal here and have learned a lot. I know that I want to use webbing tree huggers and whoopie slings to suspend my hammock. And I think that the toggle is the perfect way to join the two.

    I have read that toggles can be made out of many things. But I am wondering what strength requirements must a toggle meet? Should the toggle be strong enough to hold my weight without breaking?

    I looked for aluminum arrow shafts today to make my own toggles however no one here seems to sell aluminum arrows. However I did find some great scraps of Easton Axis full metal jacket arrows. http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/product/5 These are a combination of carbon core and aluminum outer however if I try to suspend my weight on just the short piece of the arrow it breaks in the middle.

    Does anyone here use these arrow shafts as toggles?

    How would I test a material to see if it it fit for use as a toggle?

    Thanks.
    Try an archery shop. They should have cut offs laying around the saw.

  8. #18
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    i use carbon fiber arrow shafts for my marlin spikes.
    Bring a GPS...It's awkward when you have to eat your buddies.

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  9. #19
    bloomgorge's Avatar
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    i think i would be cautious with carbon fiber since your potentially applying a load perpendiclar to the strength which it was intended to be used. cabon fiber is better at compression loads for a hollow tubing and not lateral.

  10. #20
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    I'm going to try another archery shop here in town.

    What I currently have are arrows with a carbon fiber weave inside of an aluminum shaft.

    I would prefer full aluminum, so I will keep looking.

    Thanks everyone for your feedback.

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