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  1. #11
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    I use a tempered hardboard work surface, soldering gun with cutting tip, blue painters tape and sandbags (rifle rests), 72" aluminum straight edge and framing square. Use 1 3/4 " pins instead of the usual short pins to pin the pieces together for sewing.

    A sore back seems to be a requirement as well.

  2. #12
    WV's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
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    southeast WV
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    I use a tempered hardboard work surface, soldering gun with cutting tip, blue painters tape and sandbags (rifle rests), 72" aluminum straight edge and framing square. Use 1 3/4 " pins instead of the usual short pins to pin the pieces together for sewing.

    A sore back seems to be a requirement as well.
    I'd feel right at home in your workshop - sore back and all. Now we just need to find the right bench height to minimize repetitive bending and reaching.

  3. #13
    PapaSmurf's Avatar
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    Aug 2009
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    Fredericksburg, Ohio
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    Dream Hammock
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    I also use a masonite hardboard surface and most often cut with a knife tipped soldering iron. Recently added some plywood sheets and put the whole 6' x 10' work surface on top of an old broken air hockey table. Much better on the back than crawling around on the floor.

  4. #14
    MAD777's Avatar
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    May 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    HG cuben,OES Spinn
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    I lay it out on the carpetted floor of my 18'x19' master bedroom, add weights to hold it down. I measure with a metal yardstick and 24" carpenter's square. I mark it with fine point sharpie and cut it with a rotary cutter after sliding a 24"x48" piece of HDPE 1/8" thick plastic sheet under it (from US Plastics, $15).

    If pieces get small enough, I lay the plastic board on the top of the bed (it's a high bed so no back ache), and work up there.

    I second large 1-1/2" pins with big, bright yellow heads!
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    north carolina USA
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    I agree - get off the floor

    I have to agree that it is easier on my back and knees, if I get off that cold concrete garage floor! Waist high would be perfect.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Gailainne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Central Scotland
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    I was in Asda today picking up some new fine line sharpies, and I spotted some felt pens for kids, that wash out so I may give them a go for marking out.

    I agree about the bad back, I made a balanced lug sail last year which I laid out, marked and cut out in the grass in the back garden, isn't growing old wonderful

    Not sure about the pins, I think I'd prefer using tape, and I agree about stretching the sil, something definitely to be watched.

    I've used the folding method for my bridge hammocks, but only one piece of the tarp tent is a rectangle, all the rest are a series of triangles. Which reminds me I need to get more tailors chalk for initial marking.

    Thanks for all the suggestions guys, its appreciated.

    Stephen

  7. #17
    myles to go's Avatar
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    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Brunswick ,CANADA
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    Has any one thought about using a vacuum table and a rotary cutter, something made using a sheet of peg board and powered with a shopvac. I have used vacuum in wood working lots and have alway wondered if it would work for fabric cutting.?

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