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  1. #21
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    Boy, I feel your pain. I was doing the exact same thing earlier this year, going over dimensions and fabric weights and looking for sources.
    Here are two threads I posted at the time:
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=32269
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=32629

    Ultimately I ended up finding some white polyester taffeta that weighs ~1.6oz/sqyd and some Polymax-42 which is coated and weighs ~1.20z/sqyd.

    I have been slow to getting my project off the ground...maybe next week? (haha)...and still go back and forth between going light weight with a single layer of 1.6 or a double layer with a 1/4" foam pad. Still undecided.

    I like your idea for the suspension triangle. I will not be using cinch buckles, but like the fixed eye idea for keeping the suspension centered.

  2. #22
    packeagle's Avatar
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    Thanks for the links they are providing some good reading and insight into more options.

    I did that style suspension for my girlfriends hammock tuesday. I did the eye like a locked brummel but didn't do any type of bury. it seems to be holding well.

  3. #23
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    Ok, here goes nothing I am about to order fabric. Here is my plan for 36" spreader bar bridge hammock. Looking for any advice or thoughts.

    Looking at it again I see I need to add 1in to the length of the outer fabric for seam allowance.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by packeagle; 10-23-2011 at 00:35.

  4. #24
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    Looks like a plan! It looks like you are going to use my style end caps. These are the easiest to do IF you are not sewing on a bugnet. With a sewn on bugnet I would look at how Grizz does them.

    I think you will be good unless you plan on using a large inflatable pad. There is enough stretch when using a foam pad to distribute the weight between the two layers. A large inflatable may put all the weight on the bottom layer.

    I usually put the endcaps on the bottom layer but that is just a matter of personal preference. Good luck and remember pics or it did not happen

  5. #25
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Looks very close to dimensions I would use. My only deviation would be a slightly deeper suspension curve (no more than 1" deeper), but yours is just fine.

    What hangout said about the bugnet....if you aim to do a sew-in model you need regular endcaps. These "gathered end" types should work well with hangnout's style of complete removal.

    I've made a couple of hammocks now with the sort of endcap design you have here. While I thought it would greatly simplify the endcap business, I found it brings its own set of challenges and issues, and didn't take as much less time to put in as I thought it would Practice makes perfect---and fast---I guess.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  6. #26
    packeagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    Looks like a plan! It looks like you are going to use my style end caps. These are the easiest to do IF you are not sewing on a bugnet. With a sewn on bugnet I would look at how Grizz does them.
    I plan on doing the bug net as a drape over style. I have a "cot" (32"x78") bug net i plan on adapting to suit. My plan for the net is like I've seen on 2sticks' hammock and on shug's grizzbridge.

    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    I think you will be good unless you plan on using a large inflatable pad. There is enough stretch when using a foam pad to distribute the weight between the two layers. A large inflatable may put all the weight on the bottom layer.
    I did plan on using an inflatable pad. I own an 2.5" insulated air core but wasn't going to fully inflate it. Maybe ill invest in a foam pad for reasons you cite.

    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    I usually put the endcaps on the bottom layer but that is just a matter of personal preference. Good luck and remember pics or it did not happen
    That is a good idea as the endcaps will help to hold the pad in place I wouldn't necessarily have to sew the ends of the "non endcap" layer to the other if I did it this way.

    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Looks very close to dimensions I would use. My only deviation would be a slightly deeper suspension curve (no more than 1" deeper), but yours is just fine.
    These dimensions should look close. They are nearly a blatant copy of your dimensions. I was wondering about the depth of the suspension curve as in your tutorial on the forum you use a 6" curve. I used a 6" curve on my girlfriends single layer 1.9oz and it seemed to have really high sides. So I added another inch making my curve 7". An 8" curve sounds good to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    I've made a couple of hammocks now with the sort of endcap design you have here. While I thought it would greatly simplify the endcap business, I found it brings its own set of challenges and issues, and didn't take as much less time to put in as I thought it would Practice makes perfect---and fast---I guess.
    I used hangnout's style on my girlfriends hammock and it worked well. I think I'll stick with this style as I know it worked well.
    Last edited by packeagle; 10-23-2011 at 13:38.

  7. #27
    packeagle's Avatar
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    Two more inquireies. When sewing in the webbing what direction have you rolled the webbing. Rolled in towards the inside of the hammock? I would think this would have some effect on strength.

    Also, spreader bar strength. Would .625 Easton poles be safe for a 250 lbs occupant? Would it be better to upgrade to .742 Easton poles?

  8. #28
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    I would say inside. The second one I made I put the webbing rolled to the outside. I find it wants to turn more than the other I rolled inside. I did make the second with thinker material so its is holding well but I think with lighter material it would stress the seam.

    I use the .625 poles on both bridges I made. They held my 180lbs and my sons 35lbs while he read me a book. Could have easily held another 20lbs I would think as long as your suspension triangle isn't too small.

    Please Bridge Masters, if any of the above information is incorrect please correct me. I am fairly new to the Bridge concept and have been reading every thread on it but that by no means makes up for what you guys have in experience.
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
    Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
    Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!

  9. #29
    packeagle's Avatar
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    Thanks fir the reply. I wasn't sure about the roll direction. I tried it both ways on the first bridge and the webbing seemed to roll either way.

    The .625 poles seemed to hold me in my girlfriend's hammock with 30" triangle sides and 36" spreader bars. But only for ~20min.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by packeagle View Post
    Thanks fir the reply. I wasn't sure about the roll direction. I tried it both ways on the first bridge and the webbing seemed to roll either way.
    I tend to roll to the inside, but have done it both ways. And, as you've seen,
    in both ways there is a pulling of the fabric away from the webbing.

    The .625 poles seemed to hold me in my girlfriend's hammock with 30" triangle sides and 36" spreader bars. But only for ~20min.
    And then ?
    Good thing there are sturdier poles available.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

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