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  1. #31
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Youngblood View Post
    Grizz... I was thinking about fastening the Velcro on doors and it seems that you have about 3 options on how to place the Velcro.

    1- Both hooks and loops on the inside edge of the doors.

    2- Both hooks and loops on the outside edge of the doors.

    3- The hooks on the opposite side from the loops.

    I used #1 and that might be the hardest to close from the inside and the easiest to close from the outside. #3 might have the best holding power for doors. How did you do yours?
    #3, opposing sides. Used Freemagic (like Omnitape), not that that matters.

    Grizz

  2. #32
    all i can say is that i really hate velcro, and using it is a absolute last resort for me. i took the approach of just finding out a way to pull the edges closer together in a couple spots. it seemed to close up the gap pretty well. i have 2 per door. it is just a 4" piece of gg ribbon with a cordlock on the end. you stick it through another piece of ggr on the other side, and tighten the cordlock, pulling the edges together. 2 closes the slit pretty darn well, 3 could give almost total closure.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Just Jeff's Avatar
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    I think it's great that manufacturers come to HF to get feedback on their products from the actual users. What's more, cottage makers in this community tend to actually LISTEN to the feedback and consider adjustments to their products. Good stuff.

    Dave - I know that you don't use structural ridgelines...but can you estimate how long one would be on your setup under that tarp? I'm eventually gonna buy/make a bigger tarp for winter/double hammocking, and I was thinking 12'. Since my time is so limited at this new job it's probably worth it to just spend the money on one...but the ones I like have 11' ridgelines!

    WBG - have you had any problem with the wind blowing the doors hard enough to loosen the cordlocks? What size (strength) cordlocks did you use?

    Griz - I think you need to rename your hammock something to do with airplanes, living in that hangar as you do.
    “Republics are created by the virtue, public spirit, and intelligence of the citizens. They fall when the wise are banished from the public councils because they dare to be honest, and the profligate are rewarded because they flatter the people, in order to betray them.” ~Judge Joseph Story

    - My site: http://www.tothewoods.net/
    - Designer, Jeff's Gear Hammock / Pack Cover by JRB

    IMPOSSIBLE JUST TAKES LONGER

  4. #34
    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    WBG - have you had any problem with the wind blowing the doors hard enough to loosen the cordlocks? What size (strength) cordlocks did you use?
    Since I kidnapped WBG's superfly, I guess I gotta answer that question. My very first set-up with that tarp was during a tornado warning with lots and lots of wind, rain, lightning, and thunder (yes, I have issues). Every single guy line was a knotted mess and I think it took me almost 30 minutes to get set-up. What I'm trying to say is there was A LOT of wind!

    Once the nightmare of set-up was done, it held REALLY well. The wind shifted directions several times for extended periods, including straight onto the ends. Bad weather lasted about 3.5 hours and the tarp was still tight in the morning. The door panels held perfectly. The ribbon that you slip the cordlock through is pretty tight and actually somewhat difficult to get the cordlock through initially, so when you tighten down the ribbon going through the cordlock it is basically bombproof.

    I am finding the wisdom in Youngblood's words against ridglelines with this tarp. For me, the hard part is finding the sweet spot for the suspension to get out the doors without pulling down on the tarp doors. If I had to guess, I'd say I've got about 1 or 2" of fudge-factor in setting-up the hammock. It currently takes me 2 or 3 attempts of set-up of the hammock (hang, get in; hang again, get in; hang yet again, get in, sleep) before I nail it. A new learning curve; YIPPIEEE!
    Trust nobody!

  5. #35
    canibal, you should be able to leave the cordlocks on the ggr at all times, just loosen to get it inserted through the "button hole" and then re tighten .

    jeff, i used posi grip cordlocks, they are by far the strongest regular cordlock around. they are twice as strong as other strong cordlocks, and still regular size. i think you can get them from either quest of owf.

  6. #36
    cannibal, i was thinking about it, and you should have more variance in the ridgeline distance of the hammock than just a couple inches, if the ropes hit the end panel, you can still use that amount of sag, you just must raise the hammock higher on the tree, or reduce sag without raising straps would do similar except for changing the sag. and like youngblood has been saying, going without a ridgeline will stop the hammock from dropping when weighted and causing the line to hit the door as well. i used a 117" hammock with a 100" rld, (pretty good amount of sag) you should be able to decrease sag from there as much as you want, the hammock bottom raising higher and higher and the lines getting closer to horizontal. if anything it should only be restricted by a maximum sag amount, but i like lots of sag, and my setup did not seem to max it out at 117"/100"

  7. #37
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    canibal, you should be able to leave the cordlocks on the ggr at all times, just loosen to get it inserted through the "button hole" and then re tighten .

    jeff, i used posi grip cordlocks, they are by far the strongest regular cordlock around. they are twice as strong as other strong cordlocks, and still regular size. i think you can get them from either quest of owf.
    WBG... those posi grip cordlocks may work for adjusting a gear storage loft i've been working on.
    do you think they would slip w/ as much as 20 or 30 lbs of weight suspended between two of them (w/ some bouncing as the hammock is entered & exited)???
    and i'm understanding that the grosgrain will be gripped better than a cord right?
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

  8. #38
    slowhike, that may work, you could always stack 2 side by side instead of one. i'm not sure how strong they are, weight wise. they are a little different than regular cordlocks, there is no spring, it is a plastic piece that acts like a spring, it is supposed to be stronger and last longer than a metal spring. also, the part that bites the line seems to be somewhat sharpened for a better bite. and yes, my ggr has ridges running widthwise, and it takes alot to pull it through without pressing the button, they are very strong, even stronger with the ggr.


    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    WBG... those posi grip cordlocks may work for adjusting a gear storage loft i've been working on.
    do you think they would slip w/ as much as 20 or 30 lbs of weight suspended between two of them (w/ some bouncing as the hammock is entered & exited)???
    and i'm understanding that the grosgrain will be gripped better than a cord right?

  9. #39
    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    cannibal, i was thinking about it, and you should have more variance in the ridgeline distance of the hammock than just a couple inches, if the ropes hit the end panel, you can still use that amount of sag, you just must raise the hammock higher on the tree, or reduce sag without raising straps would do similar except for changing the sag. and like youngblood has been saying, going without a ridgeline will stop the hammock from dropping when weighted and causing the line to hit the door as well. i used a 117" hammock with a 100" rld, (pretty good amount of sag) you should be able to decrease sag from there as much as you want, the hammock bottom raising higher and higher and the lines getting closer to horizontal. if anything it should only be restricted by a maximum sag amount, but i like lots of sag, and my setup did not seem to max it out at 117"/100"
    Three weeks out on the Trail (less than 7 days; I'm giddy ) I'll have it down pat and won't even have to think about it. Actually nailed it first time yesterday, so I may even have it down to a science by the end of my first week out there. Biner placement (to the left side or right side) is critical and I believe my key to successful set-up. Sounds silly, but it's true.

    BTW, I set it up in standard mode and totally understand the whole shockcord bit I was asking about. It was one of those "duhhhh" moments that I am so fond of.
    Last edited by Cannibal; 02-24-2008 at 03:11. Reason: Forgot sentance about biner placement
    Trust nobody!

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    Dave - I know that you don't use structural ridgelines...but can you estimate how long one would be on your setup under that tarp? I'm eventually gonna buy/make a bigger tarp for winter/double hammocking, and I was thinking 12'. Since my time is so limited at this new job it's probably worth it to just spend the money on one...but the ones I like have 11' ridgelines!
    Jeff- I'm not sure what you are asking about. When I use a bugnet, the non-structural ridgeline is roughly 9 feet long and that parallels 10.5 feet of hammock plus suspension line. (That is a nice 6/7 ratio and the acos(6/7) = 31 degrees.) I set all my hammocks that I use bugnets with that way whether they are 8.5 feet long or 10 feet long. You have a lot of leeway on the length of the ridgeline if you don't attach it where the fabric is gathered. I like that consistency because it does affect your headroom with the bugnetting and how far you have to reach when you store headlamps and other items on that ridgeline.

    As far as clearing the hammock suspension lines with longer tarps, a structural ridgeline will help. The tradeoff you can do with attaching lower on the supports by increasing the tension on the hammock suspension lines not only allows you to use larger spans, it also allows you to get closer to tarps. Of course the significance of that advantage is lost on shorter spans and shorter tarps. One thing you need to pay attention to as you make a tarp longer is since it can't be pitched as close to your hammock as a shorter tarp that you may want to proportionally make it wider to maintain the same overall coverage for wind driven rain.
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