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  1. #1
    Senior Member BearChaser's Avatar
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    Question Tarp Ridge anchor points & tree damage.

    Talking about the anchor points of the tarps ridge line to the trees. Whether it be two separate tie outs or a continues ridge line.

    I have been using a CRL with 1.75 Lash-it and 1.75 Zing-it prussic's. Normally I wrap my line around one tree, use a knotbone then wrap the other end around the other tree and use a figure 9 to tighten everything up. On a recent hang while setting up my tarp, I noticed when I started cranking down on my CRL I had marked the tree bark because of its small diameter. Maybe I cranked down a little too much, but the potential of the small diameter line to mark the tree would also be there if winds picked up and continuously rub and tug on the tree. I know we all like to leave no trace and we normally think of our hammocks suspension as the point of possible tree damage. So most of us use wider straps rather than small diameter lines.

    What are some possible solutions to minimize tree damage by our tarp lines? I have some possible solutions but would love to hear some more.

    • Quit cranking down on it so hard you ape.
    • Use something with larger diameter like para cord as a kind of tree strap then attach line.
    • Attach directly to hammocks tree straps.
    • Maybe add some trail sticks between the tree and line.
    • Don't worry about it, the damage isn't significant enough if you quit cranking down on it you ape.


    I know, the first and last is probably the answer but, what if you run into a particularly picky ranger, attendant, or person that has something against the idea of using a hammock. They may not have the authority to do something at that time or instance because of no rules against hammocks, but they may raise the question to the appropriate people who set behind a desk and have no clue to the little mark we may have made, compared to a blown up story they may hear. I think hammock use is going to grow, and keep growing with more people being introduced to it. But if we could start figuring out ways to minimize impact even more before it grows. It may just allow us to use our hammocks everywhere for a long time. Then again, maybe I'm worrying and over thinking too much about it. Let me know your thoughts. Me personally, I'm going to start trying a few of the things I listed just in case.

  2. #2
    Bubba's Avatar
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    Over the years I've never seen any negative results from small cordage before. Maybe I just never noticed. What kind of trees were they?
    Don't let life get in the way of living.

  3. #3
    RootCause's Avatar
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    I find the easiest one is to stick a couple small sticks between my cordage and the tree. They make an effective standoff, and impose no weight penalty.

  4. #4
    Jsaults's Avatar
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    The gram-weenies will not like this suggestion,

    but here goes.

    CRL Rub Padz (TM)

    Take a 3' section of 7/64 or 1/8" Amsteel.
    Make short (3") back-buries on each end.
    Now thread your CRL free end through the Amsteel. It can slide along the CRL to the best point for padding the tree.

    As the CRL is tightened, the smaller line will slide within the Amsteel rub sheath. The Amsteel will smoosh into the irregularities of the bark and protect the tree.

    QED.
    Jim

  5. #5
    Senior Member BearChaser's Avatar
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    @Bubba, the one I noticed it on was a Cherry. I have never really paid any attention either. This time however I just happened to walk around the back side of the tree and noticed. There was no significant damage to the tree, just some bark got smashed down and chipped off. But it got me thinking.

    @RootCause, true, no additional weight needed and it seems to work fairly well anyway.

    @JSaults, excellent idea.

  6. #6
    mugs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jsaults View Post
    but here goes.

    CRL Rub Padz (TM)

    Take a 3' section of 7/64 or 1/8" Amsteel.
    Make short (3") back-buries on each end.
    Now thread your CRL free end through the Amsteel. It can slide along the CRL to the best point for padding the tree.

    As the CRL is tightened, the smaller line will slide within the Amsteel rub sheath. The Amsteel will smoosh into the irregularities of the bark and protect the tree.

    QED.
    Jim
    I'm a gram weenie, but I would be willing to do this to make my backpacking "more humane" shall we say. And besides a 3 foot section of amsteal is not going to weigh that much extra that I couldnt warrant the weight because of the purpose in which I am adding weight.
    I miss my 4.8Lb base weight as a ground dweller...But I sure DON'T MISS the ground.

  7. #7
    Member morticianfaller's Avatar
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    I was thinking along the same line a the amsteel but using some cheaper material. I was thinking 550 cord with the guts pulled out would the same thing but not sure if the lash-it would fit inside. I have never messed with zing-it or lash-it.

  8. #8
    Hangandy's Avatar
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    Grams vs. Ethics

    I love the LNT idea. Especially in our Nat'l Parks where others will be seeing what we leave behind. Here in BC (Central Coast) these trees grow like weeds and I doubt most of them have been seen by a human eye in the past 200 years. In fact there is a huge number of CMT (Culturally Modified Trees) around our area which are a testament to our First Nations' responsible use of the forests. Before the Europeans arrived they would strip cedar bark in one long continuous strip right up the tree. And the cool thing is, they knew how much of a strip to take so that the tree would not die. This is evidenced in the way the tree has grown "over" the strip. This is also an excellent tool for anthropologists who can then date the work using tree rings.

    I generally leave a bit of sag on my tarpline so I can cinch it closer to my ridgeline (Hennessey's clip right to the RL). So, as long as I am not in a high use area, I'm using my zing-it loose and bare. Good point to bring up though. Invention usually begins with a question. If I'm going high access public I'll probably use a prussik and attach to my ridgeline.

  9. #9
    Jsaults's Avatar
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    Ya know, 550 would be a lot simpler.

    I just happene to have a section of Amsteel on my desk when I wrote my original post. I am sure that 1.75 mm will fit easily.

    Jim

  10. #10
    Senior Member BearChaser's Avatar
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    Great idea JSaults. I took yours and mort, ended up using gutted 550. The 1.75mm Lash-it I'm using for my CRL fit right through it perfectly. It slides inside the 550 very easy even when under allot of tension. I think this is going to work great to keep the sawing effect from happening when tightening everything down. I did cut a piece of 7/64 Amsteel & gutted 550, 3' length, and the both weighed in at 0.2 oz. I would have thought the Amsteel was heavier, even felt heavier. Anyway, the reason I went with the 550 is that I did not have to bury the ends, just melted with a lighter. This leaves everything nice and loose to slide.

    The way I did it was used a large needle with the lash-it threaded through the eye, then pushed it through. The way I wish I would have tried is. Before completely gutting the 550, grab 1 strand & leave it inside to use as a pull rope for the Lash-it. Although the needle worked quite easily.

    What I did today was take a short piece of 1.75mm Lash-it with me on my property, found an old poplar tree that will be cut down soon and commenced sawing. It didn't take too many turns to actually start marking and digging into the bark, actually just a couple on the soft bark of the tree. This stuff might make a good make shift saw in an emergency situation. On green wood that is. I also tried it on an old locust that was dry. Took a little more force and a little more time, but I was able to make some marks. Edit: Forgot to mention. I don't think it's going to keep from breaking any bark on trees like cherry with how flaky it is, but I believe it will keep rope burns & lines from happening.

    Thanks again for all the replies and ideas.

    Mike

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