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  1. #1
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Video : The Making of a GrizzBridge (part three) Gone Loopy

    The thread on part one of the series found here.
    The thread on part two of the series found here.

    Part three of the series goes through the construction of two cord devices used in the suspension. Through each webbing loop in the corner of the hammock goes a small loop tied off in a Diamond knot. So here's another chance to see a Diamond knot tied. The GrizzBridge suspension triangle is a cord where each end has a soft shackle like loop that clips over the Diamond knot---so the video goes through tapering the cord, making the soft shackle loop, a locked Brummel, and burying the end. Instructions on adding a descender ring at the apex of the triangle.

    After showing how to cut down a bit of aluminum tubing to create a shorter foot end spreader bar, and a TRUE CONFESSION on this particular design of suspension, there's a low res bit of footage on the RhinoBridge's maiden hang.

    Still to come...the making of a bugnet.

    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  2. #2
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    Awesome.

    Just curious, but is there a reason why you prefer the separate suspension triangle+descender ring vs. suspension triangle as part of a two legged spliced whoopie as you have made with a prior dynaglide suspension?

    Thanks for the clear demonstrations.
    BER

  3. #3
    WV's Avatar
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    Nice and clear, as always. Have you ever experimented with longer legs on the support triangle? You'd need trees a couple of feet farther apart, but it might let you use a lighter spreader bar.

  4. #4
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BER View Post
    Awesome.

    Just curious, but is there a reason why you prefer the separate suspension triangle+descender ring vs. suspension triangle as part of a two legged spliced whoopie as you have made with a prior dynaglide suspension?

    Thanks for the clear demonstrations.
    BER
    Thanks. I won't say that I prefer one way over the other. Each has its own advantages....for the flat out lightest suspension possible, lose the descender ring. It is easier (but not as kewl) to find the midpoint of the cord as I did in this video and then lark's head on a fixed splice end of a cord that goes to the tree. The splice is stronger though. What using a ring does is to shorten the minimum distance possible between trees, because the splice bury is hard to make part of a tie-off. Indeed if you put a whoopie sling or a UCR above the splice now you have two buries between the triangle and the tree. Using a ring you can run a cord from the tree to the ring and tie it off using a slipped buntline or something similar....you don't have to have buries between the triangle and the tree.

    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Nice and clear, as always. Have you ever experimented with longer legs on the support triangle? You'd need trees a couple of feet farther apart, but it might let you use a lighter spreader bar.
    Yes, back in the day I ran each side of the suspension triangle out to the sides of the tree! You're right you get less compression on the spreader bar...I didn't see how light the bar could be though. The other advantage to long sided triangles is that it raises the axis of rotation and makes the hammock more stable. I think I read once that TeeDee makes the sides of his suspension triangles whoopie slings so that he can adjust as he likes. I've got another method in mind to tinker with, if ever comes the day again when I have time to tinker!

    thanks for watching...
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the explanation. I am thinking a Dutch Biner instead of the descender ring, just because I have a couple laying around looking for a use.
    Are you using the same suspension triangle length (30") on both ends, or do you shorten it proportionally (0.83 x spreader bar length) on the narrower foot end?
    Last edited by BER; 04-28-2011 at 08:53.

  6. #6
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BER View Post
    Thanks for the explanation.
    Are you using the same suspension triangle length (30") on both ends, or do you shorten it on the narrower foot end?
    shorten it, I aim for roughly 80% of the length of the spreader bar, so on the short end of this hammock the side was cut to be 21".
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

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    Thank you again.
    Now just need the new fabric and webbing to arrive...

  8. #8
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    What type of "whipping tool" is that that you use? I'd like to get one.

    I can't find anything with a folding eyelet like I see in the video. Everything I search for has a loop through a tube.

  9. #9
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    Cool Burying Tool -- Loop Turner

    Quote Originally Posted by Eron View Post
    What type of "whipping tool" is that that you use? I'd like to get one.

    I can't find anything with a folding eyelet like I see in the video. Everything I search for has a loop through a tube.
    I had the same question... If you listen the Grizz very very carefully he mentions it is called a Loop Turner. It looks so much easier than darning needles for burying line etc. He is a link to one I found on Amazon.

    http://www.amazon.com/Prym-Dritz-R-L.../dp/B000Y3GS5E

  10. #10
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    Spreader bar diameter and length

    Spreader bar diameter specs per Grizz:

    For 250 lbs and under use the 0.625 diameter bars
    Heavier go up to the next diameter, 0.7xx

    http://questoutfitters.com/tent_poles.htm

    Spreader bar length:

    Grizz specifies the bar length for the head end to be 36" (two 18" bars) and the foot end to be 26" (1 18" bar + 8" cut from another 18" bar... I noticed Quest is now carrying 26" length bars so they do not need to be cut, but it still has to fit in the pack... Just another option.)

    Thanks Grizz for the great video series and extra help!

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