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  1. #111
    Senior Member tritan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadrunnr72 View Post
    You have already seen the hook, now you can see it with the zing-it with a locked brummel. WOW, that was a hard bury.

    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

    I have two pieces of pipe sticking out of the ground. I used to have a wood pile in between, and these were used to hold the tarp. Now I use them for hanging tarps. (It's closer and easier then going in the woods.)
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    And of course, the other end- [IMG][/IMG]
    when I tighten the loop the clip is on it gets tight but then I have extra hanging out from the running end. the video shows pulling both the loop and the running away from each other to tighten and make a loop . That is what I am trying to get rid of.

  2. #112
    Senior Member tritan's Avatar
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    pulling the top loop just looks like this.

  3. #113
    creativeKayt's Avatar
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    Hey, Tritan -- just saw your PM. It looks like the issue you are having is with measuring out the length you want for your loop. In the video, the first measurement, 4 inches in from the end, is my bury length. The second measurement, 7 inches in from the end -- or 3 inches from our first mark -- is the "length of the loop" measurement. The length of my loop for this guy-line application is 3 inches of total masons line, but, since the loop is folded over, the actual length of the loop itself is 1 and 1/2 inches. Make sense? It's prob'ly hard to visualize -- sorry about that.

    Anyhoo, seeing how small those new-fangled Dutch hooks are (which I WILL also be ordering sometime soon -- thanks so much for that, Dutch ), I'd have a very small length measured out for your loop -- say somewhere between 1/2 to 1/4 of an inch, depending on the thickness of the line you're using. So, you're first mark for the bury length would be our original 4 inches from the end of the line and the second mark would be around 4 and 1/2 inches from the end of the line (see about 45 seconds in for the explanation of what the two marks represent in terms of the locked brummel structure). Try that and re-follow the instructions and see if that will get you closer to what you want. You may have to fiddle with the loop length to get it perfect.

    One final note, for your bury line, when you actually bury the line (see 5:08 minutes in), you want to start your needle well beyond where your bury line ends to get it to tuck fully inside once you feed it through. That way, you won't have to trim off the excess, like you had to before.

    I really hope this helps. If you need more explanation and maybe some more pictures or another video, please don't hesitate to ask.

    Take another photo when you get it nailed!

  4. #114
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    echoing what others have said.

    From what I can see you've probably got the business of locked Brummel correct, but I can't see which end is to be buried, and that matters. What I would do here...

    a) pass the working end of the cord through the hook's eye and pull through just a little farther than the length I'm going to bury. For this application, maybe 3". Bring the two sides of the cord side-by-side.

    b) Mark both ends, close to the hook's eye.

    c) Pass the working end (the one to be buried) through the standing end, at the standing end's mark, just far enough so that the working end's mark goes through the pass through and out the other side.

    d) Create a new pass through at the point of the working end's mark, pulling the standing end through the working end. In other words, you're passing the standing end through the working end on the side of the first pass-through that is farthest from the hook's eye.

    e) pull on both sides to get the two pass throughs snugged up against each other.

    Ready to do the bury now. What you do next depends on whether you thread the working end through with a fid, or work in a device to pull the working end through. Owing to the narrowness of the cord I would be pulling, with a doubled over guitar string....

    f) 4" down the standing end from the two pass throughs I would get the pulling device into the interior of the standing end and push it all the way up to where the two pass-throughs are, and pop it out. Note that the length of pulling device in the interior of the cord (4") is more than the length of the working end to be buried. That's important.

    g) hook the tapered tip of the working end through the pulling device and now pull all the way to the exit. To do this you'll have to allow bunching in the standing end, but that's OK.

    h) when you finally get the working end out, for good measure hold on to it and and to the encompassing bury and pull on the working end. Probably not needed, but what you're ensuring here is that there is no slack at the point where the working end enters the bury.

    i) Finally! "milk" the bury by holding onto the hook and then stroking the standing end away from it to get rid of the bunching. The tapered tip of the working end disappears now into the bury, and you've got a nice smooth buried end.

    This has all been described before in tutorials and videos. Maybe a different set of words will help. Good luck.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  5. #115
    Senior Member tritan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativeKayt View Post
    Hey, Tritan -- just saw your PM. It looks like the issue you are having is with measuring out the length you want for your loop. In the video, the first measurement, 4 inches in from the end, is my bury length. The second measurement, 7 inches in from the end -- or 3 inches from our first mark -- is the "length of the loop" measurement. The length of my loop for this guy-line application is 3 inches of total masons line, but, since the loop is folded over, the actual length of the loop itself is 1 and 1/2 inches. Make sense? It's prob'ly hard to visualize -- sorry about that.

    Anyhoo, seeing how small those new-fangled Dutch hooks are (which I WILL also be ordering sometime soon -- thanks so much for that, Dutch ), I'd have a very small length measured out for your loop -- say somewhere between 1/2 to 1/4 of an inch, depending on the thickness of the line you're using. So, you're first mark for the bury length would be our original 4 inches from the end of the line and the second mark would be around 4 and 1/2 inches from the end of the line (see about 45 seconds in for the explanation of what the two marks represent in terms of the locked brummel structure). Try that and re-follow the instructions and see if that will get you closer to what you want. You may have to fiddle with the loop length to get it perfect.

    One final note, for your bury line, when you actually bury the line (see 5:08 minutes in), you want to start your needle well beyond where your bury line ends to get it to tuck fully inside once you feed it through. That way, you won't have to trim off the excess, like you had to before.

    I really hope this helps. If you need more explanation and maybe some more pictures or another video, please don't hesitate to ask.

    Take another photo when you get it nailed!
    When you get your hooks that would be great to see a video. I have tryed moving it around a bit but without luck. Knowing a measurement would help to figure out your loop size. I can't figure out how roadrunnr72 the other guy on this thread got his so tight. I have PMed him no reply yet. I also getting a better needle with a wider head like your video. I am using zing it was looking into the masons line for my stake guy outs.Lowes only had the twisted kind . Also what size did you use? I see it comes in number sizes 15,18,20 etc.

  6. #116
    creativeKayt's Avatar
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    Sure. I'll try to put one together this weekend, using something else as a model, because it might be awhile until I get my hooks and I'd hate to see you have to wait.

    The braided masons line I used can be found here: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

  7. #117
    gunner76's Avatar
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    Just pulled the trigger and ordered some of Dutch's new toys to add to my collection as my Dutch Clips where getting lonely.
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  8. #118
    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tritan View Post
    When you get your hooks that would be great to see a video. I have tryed moving it around a bit but without luck. Knowing a measurement would help to figure out your loop size. I can't figure out how roadrunnr72 the other guy on this thread got his so tight. I have PMed him no reply yet. I also getting a better needle with a wider head like your video. I am using zing it was looking into the masons line for my stake guy outs.Lowes only had the twisted kind . Also what size did you use? I see it comes in number sizes 15,18,20 etc.

    Sorry, been a busy couple of weeks at work and have not been on the puter. When you make the locked brummel, if you use 4" as the first mark, 4 1/2" to 5" will be the second. When I made the locked brummel on my Dutch Hook, I tried to make the loop small, and it actually came out smaller then expected. Hope this helps.
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  9. #119
    gunner76's Avatar
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    Just ordered 2 sets of Dutch Biners and just got an email from Dutch wanting to make sure that since I ordered 2 sets of Dutch Biners that I knew that they were not for use for hanging a hammock. Some people might considered that insulting but I appreciate his being concerned enought to email me ( I was ordering enough for me and the wifes hammock ).

    Great customer service. Thanks.
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    Warbonnet BB 1.7 and a whole lot of other great gear from the vendors on HF

  10. #120
    Senior Member tritan's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advice. I marked at 4 inches then 1/2 inch below that. It was tight so I think 3/4 inch would work the best I ended up putting the needle in just below my first loop below my 1/2 mark. It turned out great. I also used a longer needle it helped with loading the needle.

    [IMG][/IMG]


    [IMG][/IMG]


    [IMG][/IMG]



    [IMG][/IMG]

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