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  1. #21
    Member joehasbeard's Avatar
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    true, both of the doors in my room open in, but he made a comment at the end that if you hung from a point near the pivot of the door the strength would be higher. I'm definitely going to give it a shot next week. If I bust my butt I'll be sure to post the results here.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Please find some standard framing diagrams for residential door. Go to several sources and compare them.
    Here's one http://www.finishabasement.com/const...ming_doors.htm

    I think you will see that the construction, including the jack studs, is about what you'd expect to hang a 10 lb / 5 kg hollow core door and keep it plumb and resistant in use to twisting.

    That is to say: It depends on the framing carpenter, because the header and jack studs are not load bearing. So you may wind up a door which can no longer swing and close correctly, not to mention drywall pulled away from the framing only to have drywall mud drop out of screw-indentations when pressure is relieved.

  3. #23
    Señor Member wisenber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joehasbeard View Post
    true, both of the doors in my room open in, but he made a comment at the end that if you hung from a point near the pivot of the door the strength would be higher. I'm definitely going to give it a shot next week. If I bust my butt I'll be sure to post the results here.
    Well, watch yourself AND your doors. Without the door frame holding the suspension in place, a lot of that force will be going to the hinges and screws.

  4. #24
    Señor Member wisenber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    Please find some standard framing diagrams for residential door. Go to several sources and compare them.
    Here's one http://www.finishabasement.com/const...ming_doors.htm

    I think you will see that the construction, including the jack studs, is about what you'd expect to hang a 10 lb / 5 kg hollow core door and keep it plumb and resistant in use to twisting.

    That is to say: It depends on the framing carpenter, because the header and jack studs are not load bearing. So you may wind up a door which can no longer swing and close correctly, not to mention drywall pulled away from the framing only to have drywall mud drop out of screw-indentations when pressure is relieved.
    Agreed. A hotel door or an exterior door will have a much sturdier frame than a closet door.

  5. #25
    Member joehasbeard's Avatar
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    So I just got home and was looking at the integrity of my door frames and I gotta say, for a house that's probably over 100 years old those door frames really look... terrible. Some of the screws for the hinges aren't even biting on wood, they're just wiggling around in their respective holes. I don't think I'll be using that method at all, however in a newer home or between stronger doors I might. Lot of excellent commentary here guys, thanks.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisenber View Post
    *snip* My 14' steel hammock *snip*
    I'm in a 7'x7' box room, that's why I'd want to go to a hammock to save room.
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  7. #27
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Door frames are undoubtedly the _WORST_ place to hang save plain drywall.. They are not intended to support any kind of weight in the direction the hammock would exert force. That's asking for some extensive carpentry repairs IMO. If you can do it yourself be my guest but otherwise you can end up tapping your emergency repair fund.
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  8. #28
    Senior Member pedro's Avatar
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    Given a 7' x 7' room, the only way I can see to hang a hammock would be to mount two padeyes in the ceiling so that your hammock will hang diagonally to the room. The distance between the padeyes should be equal to the length of your ridgeline. If it is a 9 foot hammock, that's going to hover around 8 feet apart. Then hang a pole or piece of pipe from the padeyes at a height equal to where your ridgeline would normally be. Hang hammock from ridge pole. The added benefit of this method is that you are distributing the load on the ceiling such that each padeye receives 0.5 x your weight. When not in use, the pole could be stashed in a corner.
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  9. #29
    Senior Member brushybill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divine_Light View Post
    I'm in a 7'x7' box room, that's why I'd want to go to a hammock to save room.
    with a 7x7 room you will only have just under 10' diagonally, so you will have to tie into the corner studs, which are usually ganged together in residential construction, as others have said , use caution and know where you are putting your fasteners, others here have used a piece of angle iron ,(like on your garage door) to distribute the load more evenly on the stud. of course this won't stop it from ripping the stud out of the wall, if the stud wasn't nailed properly ,but it will help from putting too much stress on one point.
    fyi, i have been hanging every night from an eyebolt, for more than a year, works for me
    good luck

  10. #30
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    that video is an excelent example of misinformation on the net...probably the kinda stuff that makes an inn keeper unable to sleep at night. doors are not built to take any thing but swinging open and closed. when they're shipped from the factory they are well braced for the trip. but once the shipping braces are off they are about as sturdy as molded jello! the door framing surounding it is a bit stronger than most studs along the wall, but they all are attached to the ceiling and the floor nailers with the same nails. there's no way around this-"loads that are pulling the wall(s) horozontaly must be carefulyy thought out!" i give this video three thumbs down!!!
    Last edited by the_gr8t_waldo; 05-29-2011 at 10:16.

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