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  1. #31
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tenaya View Post
    What if instead of a continuous loop with a sliding whip knot below the apex, you did a straight length of cord to form the suspension triangle, with the cord ends at the apex? You could then have eyes on both ends, both with whip knots, and loop both eyes over the diamond knot?
    yep. That'd work.

    I'm still learning about bridge suspensions. Is there an advantage to a single line for the triangle as opposed to two separate matched cords attached to the hammock?
    The main thing for me is that I can get the two sides almost exactly the same length when I have one piece, by moving the lark's head that joins it at the middle. Takes more measurement and care to make two cord exactly the same length. One approach is something TeeDee did I think, to finish the hammock ends of those cords in whoopie slings to make it adjustable.

    ...And Grizz, would you recommend using the type of eye you did in the video for attaching to the soft shackles near the hammock, or would you use the new whip knot eye for both ends of each cord?
    I'll stick to the old way at that place. The slider makes it easier to separate hammock and suspension, but I rarely do that on a bridge hammock. And that pass through eye is trivial to make.



    Quote Originally Posted by JohnSawyer View Post
    So, Grizz is becoming the anti-Dutch...
    So maybe me and Dutch are the ying and yang of hammocking.

    better still, Twiddle Dum and Twiddle Dumber

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
    With all the talk about knots derating amsteel, is there a reason to be concerned?
    I've use soft shackles with no problems so I'm not particularly worried but others may be. I just made a couple things you showed and found it very fun to fiddle.
    Others have made this point before but it bears repeating. Most diameters of this cord are really strong,---50% of 2000 lb test is plenty strong enough. I'm not too concerned about knots in a suspension made of 1/8" Amsteel, at all. 7/64" is weaker, but I still put knots in it. Dynaglide only starts at about 1000 lb, and so degrading takes one there into fewer digits of test strength than I want to routinely trust.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I just don't think we should be encouraging him. We started hardware free, it was called Hennessy suspension.
    shucks, you ain't seen nuthin' yet. For my next trick I'm going to make a pack-free hammocking system. Ha! You don't think so??? Why I'll just make my hammock so you can dual use it as a pack. So there!
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  2. #32
    Senior Member tiredhiker's Avatar
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    Hey Grizz,
    What kind of string do you use to make the whipping ends on the continuous shackle,and on the end of the whoopi sling?

  3. #33
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiredhiker View Post
    Hey Grizz,
    What kind of string do you use to make the whipping ends on the continuous shackle,and on the end of the whoopi sling?
    That's 1.75 mm diameter Lash-It, by Sampson.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  4. #34
    Senior Member tiredhiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    That's 1.75 mm diameter Lash-It, by Sampson.
    Thanks grizz.
    tiredhiker

  5. #35
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    I've been messing around with the HFDHS and wanted to remove all hardware. In other words, remove the "marlin spike".

    Right now, I have a loop of amsteel with a double diamond knot. From here, I attach the ridge line and the suspension whoopie. Around the trees, I have some huggers. I just needed to find a way to remove the "marlin spike" and to attach the whoopies and still have them removable.

    I thought that I could tie a diamond not to the end of the whoopie:

    This works well, I can just run the huggers through the loop. This works well. Except the attachment point is not adjustable. So, I thought about using a hedden knot and I can slide the diamond knot to where I want it:
    This isn't bad. But after a test hand tonight, I found the hedden tightened a lot and was a bit difficult to move. After a bit of fudging the knot, I got it loose enough that I could position it where I want it.

    Then I thought about using a knot that I could use instead of the loops in the huggers. I wanted a knot that would be easy to tie around the tree, strong and easy to remove. I wanted something I could wrap the whoopie around. I found the Kalmyk. With this knot, I can do a couple of things. I can either place the whoopie over the knot, I can put the huggers through the whoopie's adjustable loop or I can keep the albright loop knot on the end. I can then tie the Kalmyk so that the diamond knot is where I want it.

    I played with this idea tonight. Tying the Kalmyk was easy. It held my weight and even more important, when I went to remove it, I just pulled on the slipped line and it came undone. I forgot to test this knot with the whoopie attached directly to it instead of the hedden or the albright knots.

    But, I think I like the idea of using the huggers with an albright knot, with the huggers going through its own loop. But being able to tie the Kalmyk if the tree makes it so that the exit line is too long.

    I need to make new huggers. The ones I have now have loops on both ends which makes the last couple of inches rigid and not as adjustable with the Kalmyk. I only want the loop on one side of the hugger with the other side being free with an albright at the end.

  6. #36
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    SweetLou---thanks for posting, I had to look up the Kalmyk. Interesting knot with a mysterious history!
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  7. #37
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    There's not much out there about the Kalmyk. It took me some time to find a way to tighten the knot and keep it tight around the tree. I like my huggers to wrap the tree, not just around the tree. Does that make sense?

    Basically, what I do is tie the knot loosely, then using my right middle finger, I pull more of the webbing around the tree. Then I pull on this with my left hand making the slipped part bigger. Once it is tight against the tree, I just tighten away.

    The one thing to be careful about is to make sure the slipped part has long enough legs, otherwise it can pull through. I've practiced this knot with amsteel, then moved on to webbing. I haven't had a full night of hanging with this knot, just short little test hangs but I haven't had it jam yet.

    I actually found this knot while looking for a knot to use as the marlin spike hitch. One to tie into the webbing to hook my whoopies around but as easily to remove as the MSH. I haven't found one yet, but I think this might be a good alternative.

  8. #38
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    If you don't already have a copy of Ashley you can get one free download from: http://www.ebook3000.com/Ashley-Book-of-Knots_6200.html

    I've been looking at ABOK wrt the Kalmyk knot and I am of the opinion that it is not in the ABOK - the one that comes closest is probably #1033, a Carrick Loop - looking at the structure of the Kalmyk knot it appears to be based on one of the single carrick bends but I have not yet gone and figured out which one

  9. #39
    Dos's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Hog On Ice;613022]If you don't already have a copy of Ashley you can get one free download from: http://www.ebook3000.com/Ashley-Book-of-Knots_6200.html

    thank you for this...

  10. #40
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hog On Ice View Post
    I've been looking at ABOK wrt the Kalmyk knot and I am of the opinion that it is not in the ABOK...
    And that is probably why it isn't as well known.

    Since I have learned this knot, it has become one of my favorites to create a loop that I want to remove later around something. It has never become difficult to untie. I have used it in a versatackle with success. For an end of line loop, I use a double dragon but I have used the Kalmyk for this also.

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