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  1. #51
    Alamosa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buffalo Skipper View Post
    ...Has anyone researched the idea of going with UL materials? Has anyone looked into carbon fiber poles? Strength in this setup? Cost? Weight? ...
    I personally have not. The only times I have envisioned using this were like BSA camporees where the location is assigned or canoeing where trees may not exist on an island or within public access, etc. For my hiking, I think I will always have the option of stopping early or going a little farther to reach a properly treed area. I don't plan on doing a lot of desert type hiking where trees are problematic.
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  2. #52
    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alamosa View Post
    2) Weld a base plate across the openings of the foot of both poles. Without it the poles are driven into the ground when the hammock is loaded. That is why there are currently boards under the poles in the pictures. This will also complete the nesting capability of the poles.

    3) I am going to build new continuous loops for the main amsteel lines. I need to do this after I get my final pole lengths anyway.
    I am going to build it with two colors so the lines going to the heads are different than the lines going to the feet of the poles. This will make it easier and quicker to identify how the lines attach.
    I will use fisherman's knots to connect these keeping the knots in between the booms and the feet of the poles. Again, I don't expect much pressure here so I am not worried about having knots here. In the end, I may use a smaller line for this portion as well.


    I think that is it for my to-do list on these. I can't wait to hear ideas and feedback if anyone else tries this.
    (2) This may add to your overall length, but after you weld your base plate to the bottom, you could weld a 3"? or so "spike" on the bottom. This would prevent the bottom from sliding and eliminate the bottom ties. It would also make putting up the stand easier. You just push it in the ground and let it stand up. You could still use a board under it if the ground is really soft, just drill a hole in the middle for the spike to go through.

    (3) Why a continuous loop? A locked brummel on each end would use less amsteel.

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  3. #53
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    Instead of a spike at the bottom or a plate, you could just drill two holes in each of the pieces of wood and put two stakes threw those holes. That way it would provide more stability for the poles.

  4. #54
    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonb986 View Post
    Instead of a spike at the bottom or a plate, you could just drill two holes in each of the pieces of wood and put two stakes threw those holes. That way it would provide more stability for the poles.
    Funny you said that. That was just what I did a few weeks ago, while "testing" mine. By doing it this way, you don't need the bottom amsteel to keep the poles from slipping.
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  5. #55
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    I'm going to be making this stand this weekend, for an upcoming hang.

  6. #56
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    Really neat design and I'm going to try it for my system (also getting ready to go on a BSA outing where we are not likely to have trees in our designed site). If I missed this somewhere in the numerous posts, sorry, but wouldn't it create less stress on the guy lines if the two main support poles were at outward angles rather than a 90 degree angle to the ground? I'm not an engineer, but it would seem that by placing the poles at such an angle, there would be more weight being distributed down the poles instead of pulling inward from the poles. Can someone who is more of an expert on this provide their comments? Thanks.

    OS

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohio Survivor View Post
    I'm not an engineer, but it would seem that by placing the poles at such an angle, there would be more weight being distributed down the poles instead of pulling inward from the poles. Can someone who is more of an expert on this provide their comments? Thanks.

    OS
    Ohio Survivor, here is the information about the angle of the poles.

    You can't really tell from this angle, but I have it slightly angled backwards so that the head end of the pole is farther from the gap than the foot end. The lines running from the booms to the foot end will keep it from slipping towards the gap. The slight angle insures that it can not slip backwards. I don't get carried away with the angle, as I still want all the pressure on the pole to be vertically into the ground.

  8. #58
    Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    My original stand that I made is like that!! I used 2x4s instead of the pipe. This design is a lot more compact than mine, but it's for car (well, truck) camping anyway.
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  9. #59
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    Anyone considered trying this with some schedule 80 PVC? My initial thought is whether the diameter would have to be so large for stability that the weight would be ridiculous for canoeing??

    (I haven't worked with smaller diameter schedule 80, so I really don't know how accurate this assumption is....and when i say "worked with" - my extent of "working with" schedule 80 is in using it to turn a car upright after it has rolled over at an accident scene.....wish I had a video to show so you could see the amount of force being implied on it...)

  10. #60
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    Alamosa
    What a great idea! I am making some of your boom stakes to use with my aluminium canoe poles for canoeing when there are not enough trees to hang conventionally.

    Your take on portable treeless hanging will help me out of a dead end thought process with a too complicated to work in real life idea I was struggling with (too many lines and pegs).

    Anyway, to the point of this post: what procedure do you adopt when erecting your stand single-handed? Does the continuous anchor lines help or do you always have help?
    Alan

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