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  1. #1
    New Member pdcollins6092's Avatar
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    Anyone interested in carbon fiber toggles? They are 3" long by 5/16" in diameter and I have black or camo pattern. I am selling them for $3.50 per set shipped. There are 2 sets of each pictured but I will make more if these sell. My paypal address is pdcollins6092@yahoo.com , send me a PM to let me know that you made payment and to also give me your mailing address.

    Last edited by pdcollins6092; 06-29-2011 at 00:58. Reason: added picture

  2. #2
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    I don't see a picture. What is the weight for a pair? Thx.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Lonely Raven's Avatar
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    Not to derail, but do you trust CF toggles? CF tubes (Assuming it's an arrow shaft) is made to be strong along it's length, not it's width. What have you tested them up to?

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    i would be leary of useing any fiberglass type product in something that i had to handle (unless when the raw cut ends were covered with epoxy) untreated this way, the handler is subject to splinters and fiberglass ones are easy to inpail, and hard to extract- carbon fiber is a lot more so ( and smaller too).! these splinters are produced when a cut/drilled hole is made, and long before the shaft actually fails.this is just from my own experence useing and making glass reinforced plastics products.

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    Senior Member Big D's Avatar
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    I use arrow shaft CF toggles. I am 250#, and have had no problems.

    Mine are cut with an arrow saw, not a hatchet, so I have not noticed splintered ends. Having said that, I don't rub mine over my skin, or store in my hammock.

    The knot bears the majority of the weight, not the toggle.
    "Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." Gen. George S. Patton

  6. #6
    Senior Member kgbenson's Avatar
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    I have some of these I picked up from Dicks - the ends are not rough not are there loose fibers to get splinter from. I did smooth them a smidgen with the file on my leatherman, but that was because the things were cut at 90 degrees and slightly sharp, I just rounded them over.

    Keith

  7. #7
    Senior Member Big D's Avatar
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    Those look nice!
    "Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." Gen. George S. Patton

  8. #8
    New Member pdcollins6092's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike777 View Post
    I don't see a picture. What is the weight for a pair? Thx.
    Sorry about that, I think I got it now. They only weigh a couple of grams for the pair.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lonely Raven View Post
    Not to derail, but do you trust CF toggles? CF tubes (Assuming it's an arrow shaft) is made to be strong along it's length, not it's width. What have you tested them up to?
    Yes, I trust carbon fiber as much if not more than aluminium. I havent thrown weight on them to test them to failure but as Big D said the knot holds the bulk of the weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
    i would be leary of useing any fiberglass type product in something that i had to handle (unless when the raw cut ends were covered with epoxy) untreated this way, the handler is subject to splinters and fiberglass ones are easy to inpail, and hard to extract- carbon fiber is a lot more so ( and smaller too).! these splinters are produced when a cut/drilled hole is made, and long before the shaft actually fails.this is just from my own experence useing and making glass reinforced plastics products.
    There is a differance between fiberglass and carbon fiber. If either is cut with the wrong thing (a hack saw or any other toothed saw) they will get splinters. I cut these with an arrow saw whitch is ment to be used for CF.
    Last edited by pdcollins6092; 06-28-2011 at 13:52.

  9. #9
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    i'm not all that familiar with arrow saws... and a quick look online seems that they are accurate, but will produce dust just like anyonther method of cutting(look close enough and you'll see splinters make up that dust) in most cases the cuts are covered up with arrow hardware- probably glued and either one will cover or seal the open fibers. (probably they add a small measure of strength to the assembly as well. but imho, for an open cut, epoxie is the way to seal these for the use suggested. don't be offended, you probably didnt consider this element when starting out - most buyers wouldn't either. but someone should...don't ya think? the splinters are a part of grp work and sealing it is also. thus ends my dssertation

  10. #10
    New Member pdcollins6092's Avatar
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    The only time I ever had a problem with splintering arrows is when I would shoot one into the other or hit something harder than them. The only end of an arrow that is glued in is the tip that holds the field point/broad head, the knock on the other end just pushes into the shaft without glue. I shoot CF arrow shafts from a bow that will launch them down range at 320 FPS with a Kinetic Energy of around 90.97 ft-lbs and slam into a target repeatedly without splintering so I myself trust them.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
    i'm not all that familiar with arrow saws... and a quick look online seems that they are accurate, but will produce dust just like anyonther method of cutting(look close enough and you'll see splinters make up that dust) in most cases the cuts are covered up with arrow hardware- probably glued and either one will cover or seal the open fibers. (probably they add a small measure of strength to the assembly as well. but imho, for an open cut, epoxie is the way to seal these for the use suggested. don't be offended, you probably didnt consider this element when starting out - most buyers wouldn't either. but someone should...don't ya think? the splinters are a part of grp work and sealing it is also. thus ends my dssertation

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