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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Oh knots and knots of things

    Ordered my ripstop and other supplies, thank you DIY and Seattle fabrics for the good prices and service. Spent some time last night amusing the wife as I would get tangled up trying to do soft biners, prussic knots (sp ?) and other things. She has already told me that I am making her one too arent I,,, don't know if that was a demand or an asking but I was glad to hear it. Now, how the heck do you make the adjustable ridgelines out of the very small lines. I can see the 7/64 barely. Is it just more practice or what would you reccommend line size for a adjustable or fixed ridge size.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Others's Avatar
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    I used 2.2 "lash it" and a high "e" guitar string and a heavey leather sewing needle to make my ARL.
    open up the line with the needle insert the folded over guitar string and pull.
    I am sure there are other ways to do this but this method worked fo me.

  3. #3
    gargoyle's Avatar
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    There isn't a lot of strain on a ridgeline, so the smaller lines will work. 7/64 will be more than adequate.
    As far as a good distance/length for your ridge, play with it, and find whats comfortable for you. Once you find your sweet spot, splice the rope to mimmick that length.
    Doing the ridgeline with a whoopie allows for adjustment, if you want to go that route.
    If your hammock will have netting sewn on, the ridge needs to be set. Lengthening the ridge on a netted hammock strains the netting.
    General rule of thumb is 83% of your total hammock length.
    I.E., a 10' hammock will have a 100" ridge approx., that'll get you in the ballpark..adjust to your liking.
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  4. #4
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    adding to the offered experience...

    you don't need to be fancy to get a good working adjustable ridgeline. I use Lash-It (1.8mm Dyneema) and lighter still dynemma core (I think) cord once sold as "Speers No Tangle" guyline. Do a semi-permanent attachment at one end, bring the working end down to the other end where it goes through some kind of loop (a soft shackle, or a biner) and then back out to the ridgeline where it's tied off with a taut-line hitch. The hitch holds both under tension and not, but can be slid up and down the ridgeline to make it adjustable.
    For both I'd use what Ashley's book of knots calls the midshipmans hitch
    (see #1855 down the page here), and with the slippery Lash-It, do an extra wrap, repeating step #2 twice.

    a no-knot technique replaces the hitch above with a biner where the ridgeline has wrapped 3 or 4 times around one edge of the biner. You can slide the biner along the ridgeline when the ridgeline is not loaded, and thus have a loop in the end of the working end of the ridgeline that clips into the biner.
    Last edited by GrizzlyAdams; 07-17-2011 at 14:14.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  5. #5
    Stormstaff's Avatar
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    I was just tying some knots in some of this cord Dutch sent me. Man, I don't know how you folks work with this small stuff, hehe. I need smaller fingers or more practice.

    Grizz, watch some of your vids. Great work! Very helpful and you explain things very well.

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