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Thread: My quilt

  1. #11
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    ends of baffles...

    I've been trying to get an idea of what happens at the ends of baffles, without going through HE's careful measurements in the instructions....easier to ask...

    Thinking about a baffle in use, it is a couple of inches high, crosses the quilt, and comes to the edge. It must be sewn into the edge to keep down from shifting between baffles, but the seam is flat whereas the baffle in use is vertical. Given that the baffle is sewn to the inside and outside shells (which come together in that seam), what transition does the baffle material make going from being vertical--sewn separately to inside and outside shells---to being sewn between the top and bottom shells, flat?

    thanks

    Grizz

  2. #12
    Dutch's Avatar
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    The quilt is 48 wide and the bug netting is 50 inches wide. The last inch on each side folds up into the generous rolled hem. You could go 51 inches just to make sure, for some reason one of mine were just barely long enough to make the baffle go to the hem. Once you do the rolled hem the baffle becomes a non-issue and you are just lining up the 2 layers of material. so yes it winds up flat.


    On that some note. I noticed that the end baffles were stuffed fuller than the 8 middle ones. I thought I may have measured wrong but then i realized that the end baffles are sewn through on the one side. This makes the cubic inches less than a baffle with bug netting on both sides and then you need less down in those. I left it the way it was thinking it would be nice to have extra at the foot and neck. However since I was overzealous about stuffing it was a little tough doing the rolled hem on the ends without the material getting folded into the hem.
    Peace Dutch
    GA>ME 2003


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  3. #13
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    got it

    OK, got it, thanks.

    As I'm figuring my UQ for warmer temps ( loft between 1.5" and 2"), I'm thinking about sewing though rather than baffles. With differently dimensioned sides (the one that is against the hammock body is smaller than the one that is not, to avoid compression), this creates its own challenges. To be sure I'll make a mockup before sewing on the momentum!

    Grizz

  4. #14
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Dutch,

    Nice Old Rag Mtn clone.....

    You are right on your observation on momentums weight at 1.1 oz..... Actual 1.1 w/ DWR can vary though from about 1.17 (ours) to as much as 1.23 or so depending on the DWR.....

    Hope you can make the "Bridges along the Shenandoah" Hike in April... Look forward to seeing your quilt.

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

    www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413

  5. #15
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    As I'm figuring my UQ for warmer temps ( loft between 1.5" and 2"), I'm thinking about sewing though rather than baffles. With differently dimensioned sides (the one that is against the hammock body is smaller than the one that is not, to avoid compression), this creates its own challenges. To be sure I'll make a mockup before sewing on the momentum!
    I sewed both of my 1/2 UQ's with a differential cut with baffles. It made it very easy to fit to hammock with no loss of loft. I think it is important on the smaller 1/2 UQ's because you can maintain loft all the way to the edge.

    I am also working on a summer version that is differential cut but sewn through. With the differential cut each section will tend to "lay" against the section below it minimizing the loss of loft were it is sewn through when used as an UQ.

  6. #16
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    Not to hijack the thread on your beautiful quilt, but since you guys (Dutch and Grizz) have got to play around with Mom90, do you think it would be suitable for a hammock? Does it seem to be stronger than 1.1 rip stop, or is all in my head?
    “Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." -Terry Pratchett



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  7. #17
    Dutch's Avatar
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    HC4U (Mr. Moderator) it is funny you ask. I was thinking about how Grizz used sil for his light weight bridge and thought momentum could be used in its place as long as you have the money to burn. It definitely feels strong enough for a hammock. Though I don't usually use dwr for a hammock it seems breathable enough that condensation wouldn't be a problem.
    Peace Dutch
    GA>ME 2003


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  8. #18
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HANGnOUT View Post
    I sewed both of my 1/2 UQ's with a differential cut with baffles. It made it very easy to fit to hammock with no loss of loft. I think it is important on the smaller 1/2 UQ's because you can maintain loft all the way to the edge.

    I am also working on a summer version that is differential cut but sewn through. With the differential cut each section will tend to "lay" against the section below it minimizing the loss of loft were it is sewn through when used as an UQ.
    I am not understanding "differentially cut". can you explain that a little.

    Nice Old Rag Mtn clone.....
    I was actually trying to clone the no snivling but got carried away with the down.


    As I'm figuring my UQ for warmer temps ( loft between 1.5" and 2"), I'm thinking about sewing though rather than baffles. With differently dimensioned sides (the one that is against the hammock body is smaller than the one that is not, to avoid compression), this creates its own challenges. To be sure I'll make a mockup before sewing on the momentum!
    I learned from looking at the Jacks sleeves that when you sew things right through the baffles tend to overlap each other making bug net baffles less important. Espectially on a thinner quilt for summer use. I think a hot knife is a good investment. I don't want to singe the edges with a candle any more. It caught on fire once but with the generous seem allowence it was no problem. I was worried the entire time.
    Peace Dutch
    GA>ME 2003


    http://dutchwaregear.com

    Visit Dutchwaregear on facebook (and like it)

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  9. #19
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I am not understanding "differentially cut". can you explain that a little.
    What I'm doing, which has been mentionned on HF before (which is why I'm doing it!), is to have the width of the outside piece be wider than the piece that goes up against the hammock body. ("width" here because my chambers will from head end to foot end, not from side-to-side). I think that is what is meant by differential cut.

    In a sewn through design a chamber would have, say, 6 inches of fabric for the part that goes up against the hammock be between seams, and more---say 8 inches (although I'm making the number up) of fabric of the outside piece be between those seams. The fun part here is figuring out what the wider width ought to be in order to use a given amount of down for a given width and length of quilt.

    I learned from looking at the Jacks sleeves that when you sew things right through the baffles tend to overlap each other making bug net baffles less important. Espectially on a thinner quilt for summer use.
    yes, that's what I've been thinking, for lower loft gear.


    I think a hot knife is a good investment.

    Got one for Christmas and like it a lot.

    Grizz

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    The fun part here is figuring out what the wider width ought to be in order to use a given amount of down for a given width and length of quilt.
    The following method has worked well for me (warning: some math talk follows). For a baffled quilt, you take the loft L as the height of your baffle (and then overstuff), so you have a down area per unit length of L * W, where W is the width of each down chamber. I figured with a differentially cut quilt, you want to have the same area per unit length for insulation. So, I computed the parabola with zero crossings at -W/2 and W/2 that would give me an area under the curve of L * W. Then I took the arc length of that parabola as the chamber width for the outside. Since catenary curves are so popular around here, you could go through the same exercise with a catenary curve. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes.

    This approximation has worked well for me, but I split the down volume between baffle and differential cut. On a sewn through quilt, the approximation may not be as good (or it might be better), but it's a starting point. YMMV.

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