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  1. #1
    Senior Member Splat's Avatar
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    Help: 1st time sealing tarp

    Finally got the Claytor in today. I don't know why I waited to seal the JrB tarp I got but I now must seal it. I've never sealed a tarp before. FWIW, I'm using McNett's Sil-Net seam sealer. Is the ridgeline the only thing that gets sealed, or do the seams around the edges of the tarp need sealing too? Thank you.


    PS, do I need to seal anything on the Claytor JH too?

  2. #2
    Hooch's Avatar
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    IMO, just seal the ridgeline. The seams around the edge are too far away from you to let water in and get you wet. I'm sure Pan will chime in or you can PM him or give him a call if you want to.

  3. #3
    Senior Member stoikurt's Avatar
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    Ditto on what Hooch said.
    Stoikurt
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Splat's Avatar
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    Ok. Do I seal both sides of the tarp? I've nowhere to hang the tarp to get it taught. Does it need to be taught or if I get it nice, laid out pretty flat on my basement floor will that suffice? Thanks again.
    Last edited by Splat; 04-11-2008 at 15:42.

  5. #5
    Dutch's Avatar
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    I seal both sides just for good measure. Also you don't want water getting into a seam and not be able to get out. I could cause mildow. IMO
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  6. #6
    Hooch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I seal both sides just for good measure. Also you don't want water getting into a seam and not be able to get out. I could cause mildow. IMO
    Ditto what Dutch said.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Hector's Avatar
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    You only seal the ridgeline, and you only need to seal one side (the outside in the case of the JWT would be best) unless you're feeling particularly paranoid. If you want to make your tie-outs a tiny bit stronger, you can put some on each tie-out, working into the threads.

    You'll have a much easier time of it if you get the center ridge taught. I hung mine from a door hinge and a curtain rod on opposite sides of the room.

    You can, I'm told, dilute the 100% silicone with mineral spirits to make it "flow" more easily. Alcohol will not work to dilute it. I just apply it straight with a small cheap brush which I throw away after, using the brush to wipe it on neatly and very thin, working it into the threads. Be sure you get all around the center tie-out.

    Give it 24 hours to dry and cure somewhere with good air circulation, then dust the silicone with talcum powder and put it away. If feeling paranoid, spray entire tarp with a can of silicone spray (the cheap Wally World stuff works fine) each year to refresh its water resistance.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Splat's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, especially Hector. I just got done on the outside side of the ridgeline. I just may cut the SilNet tomorrow and apply to the underside just for s&g's since I have some SilNet left.

  9. #9
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    When I seam seal my tarps I set them up, making sure that the ridge line seam is tight so that the needle holes will be open and I will able to get some sealer down in them. I then mix silicone caulk with mineral spirits to thin it down and apply it with a foam brush. I seal the inside and the outside of the tarp with 2 thin coats of sealer. I just seal the ridge line. Allow 24 hours to dry and then I will dust the seam with talcum powered to keep it from being so tacky.


    EDIT:

    Gotta be fast around here. Hector beat me to it.
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  10. #10
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Personally, I'm with Hooch and others on this one.... Seal one side.... Do however seal both the threads and the rolled edge on the chose side of the ridge line seam.

    Sealing a seam 3/4 inch from an exposed edge is a waste, and extra weight IMHO.

    Sealing the other side as well is not necessary....Just ads extra weight.... As to the comment on mildew.... That will not happen to the hammocked who ALWAYS hangs his gear to dry completely when one get off the trail.... even if they think it was packed dry on the last day....

    BTW.... just like in the old days of canvas tents.... canvas should always be store in a vented area, with ventilation between pieces.... This makes sence for nylon tents and even silnyl as well.... But hey!... It is your gear...

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

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