I would mark off the seems accordingly and set pins to not allow any slippage.
Like Rev points out above, the light weight and slippery nature of outdoor fabrics will be a challenge. You need to hold the fabric coming out the back of the machine and the fabric going into the machine along the seem. For me, there is a need to create a slight tension but to also be careful not to forcibly pull the fabric through the machine. It takes some practice.
Another vote for always using both hands!
But like Rev warned, don't pull!
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
Instead of trying to sew again try re-whipping the ends pulling only a slight bit more material from the looser side than the other. That way they are the same tautness (is tautness even a word).
Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!
If you get them even remotely close, the tighter layer will stretch some and pick up the slack...
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
There may be some disagreement over this but I'll risk it anyway. I think that is your problem right off the bat. Fabric is _really_ difficult to square. Especially if you are used to working with stable material like wood or metal. The weave of fabric is almost NEVER perpendicular to itself and so it wants to pull in various directions. If you want fabric to be square you have to make a choice... perpendicular to the selvage or "square" according to the weave. It is extremely rare that you can have both.Originally Posted by hfmac
Start by cutting both layers at the same time. Lay one on top of the other so the edges cut to the same length. Try to make sure any skew in the weave is matched on both layers. In other words... don't lay out the whole length and fold it back on itself. As nice as that seems to be, any chevron in the weave will be reversed on the top layer. You want to rough cut the pieces and lay one on top of the other the way you want the finished item to be.. Then finish cut to the length you want. Next pin the entire seam at once. Perpendicular pins keeps the fabric from shifting on the pins.
While sewing it, work in small sections. I would pin every six inches or so if not closer. Here's why. As you sew the fabric will want to creep. Even with a walking foot there is a level of creep which is unavoidable. If you are pinned closely the creep will bunch up against the next pin. You can "ease" that creep back into the seam smoothly if it is just a small amount at a time. If you try to do a ten foot seam iat once without close pinning you can end up with a couple of inches of creep by the end of the seam. No way you can ease that back in a couple of feet. Work slowly and ease the creep in as you go.
Hope this helps.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
Thanks, you're post was really aimed at my biggest worry. 2 layers cut at once, I'll try that. I opted not to do it that way for a few reasons. In my small urban home, floor space is limited, so I was in fact cutting single layers each time folded back 5 feet x 60" (10'x60" overall/layer).
Since I was already having space issues, I also figured 2 layers would be more difficult to handle than 1. Lastly, I would not be able to see very well if the bottom layer was crinkled or not.
As far as squaring technique goes, for my next attempt, I was intending to fold along the length, align the selvedges, and cut perpendicularly. I was even scheming to somehow hang the 2 layers simultaneously so that I could more easily work out any wrinkles while I pin.
The bottom layer crinkle is surprising easy to see in very lightweight fabric. But the easy way around that is to do exactly what you were thinking of doing in terms of hanging the fabrics to smooth them out. That's easiest to do with two people. Just like folding king sized sheets is easier with two people. Folding length wise is exactly what I warned against for the reasons posted above.
My suggestion is to work on the dining room table. Yep... the significant other just loves that (not)... but the reason is very simple. You can work in a more erect position. And you can hang the fabric over the edge. This allows gravity to smooth the layers and it will crumple and bunch on the floor. Believe it or not, the floor crumple maintains alignment better than folding because gravity is your friend. If you are going to be spending any major time at the table you might want to put blocks under the legs to raise it up to a better ergonomic height Easy to set up... easy to take down when the SO says "Dinner time!" Of course if you live alone you can always eat on your lap and practice your trail eating technique at the same time. After all.. priorities must be established.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
Ok, I think I got past this. It was a bear though. I pinned like never before and broke out the walking foot. I also used the chalk mark alignment idea.
I rough cut two pieces then layed them flat. I folded lengthwise and aligned the selvedges to make the final cut. Then I had to unfold them, full length and width, and arrange the two pieces to be wrinkle free as possible. Then I pinned all perimeters plus zipper and the roll hem.
Last edited by hfmac; 10-07-2011 at 10:11.
I'm onto the mosquito netting. Could anyone provide sample dimensions for the pullout points, say for a 100" ridgeline? I'm going off this diagram.
I've never been in a production hammock, so I'm not sure what are good dimensions. Like how wide to pull it out across the ridge and how far down from the head the pullouts should start.
One thing I don't understand is why the pattern shows the two pullouts at the same distance from the ridgeline. When I tried experimenting placement on my DIY. The first from the head was about 20" the second one was 29" from the ridge. I pulled the side out about the minimum that could be pulled before it became floppy. Perhaps it's because I'm not using the shelf? (I'm following the Jerry 5 pattern).
Last edited by hfmac; 10-07-2011 at 15:57.
hfmac, I don't know sic' em from fetch about this sewing thing but that looks like danged fine work to me! Keep us posted on the netting!
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