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  1. #21
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    Looks great. Thanks for updating us on this thread... I missed the original post and this project is exactly what I was looking for!

    How much loft and what is your estimated comfort temp?

    Thanks for the tip on the pillow! Found a king size quilt with 30oz of down on ebay right now for $60... Says same 800fp down... sounds like a steal if somebody wants to pick it up!
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOOM-HOME-M...ht_2656wt_1644

    John

    EDIT: Had to do it, I Just bought the materials I need to make my version of this UQ from Scott! With Hernia surgery coming up in a month, I might as well have something to do while I recover... I figure after a few days of ice-packs I can get to sewing!
    Last edited by JohnSawyer; 11-09-2011 at 00:34.
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  2. #22
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyHiker View Post
    Special thanks go out to my wife who put up with me taking over the dining room table and kitchen floor for a week during construction!

    Is that all??!? Looks great!!! Thanks for all the info and inspiration!!!
    "Pips"
    Mountains have a dreamy way
    Of folding up a noisy day
    In quiet covers, cool and gray.

    ---Leigh Buckner Hanes

    Surely, God could have made a better way to sleep.

    Surely, God never did.

  3. #23
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnSawyer View Post
    How much loft and what is your estimated comfort temp?
    I'd say the loft is between 3.5 - 4 " (hard to accurately measure, for me anyway). I'm aiming for between 10-15 degrees F, and I'm a cool sleeper. So far only tested to ~25.

    I used the ratings from: http://thru-hiker.com/projects/down_quilt.php to guesstimate what loft I needed, and those seem to be inline with most of the commercial UQ offerings available. So 2.5" baffles should give about 3.5" of loft. The differential cut seems to increase that loft a bit more.


    Thanks for the tip on the pillow! Found a king size quilt with 30oz of down on ebay right now for $60... Says same 800fp down... sounds like a steal if somebody wants to pick it up!
    John

    EDIT: Had to do it, I Just bought the materials I need to make my version of this UQ from Scott! With Hernia surgery coming up in a month, I might as well have something to do while I recover... I figure after a few days of ice-packs I can get to sewing!
    Those pillows are a fantastic deal IMO. I think you'll be pleased with the results. You do fine work btw, you'll have fun with this.

    Ouch on the surgery - heres hoping it goes smooth and easy, and for a fast recovery!

    Quote Originally Posted by Pipsissewa View Post
    Is that all??!? Looks great!!! Thanks for all the info and inspiration!!!
    Ha! The hardest and most time consuming part - besides planning - was measuring(and re-measuring), marking and cutting. Once I had all of my pieces putting them together was pretty straightforward.

    Thanks all for your kind words.
    Last edited by HappyHiker; 11-10-2011 at 01:37. Reason: Added link
    Experience is the worst teacher - it presents the exam first and the lesson later. - Unknown

  4. #24
    New Member freakfx's Avatar
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    Smile

    question for you, did you sew the baffles first the do the darts or the darts first then the baffles? I have not yet done a baffled UQ sew I do not know which should be done first. I assume you would do the baffles first while you still have straight lines but would like someone who has done this to confirm or deny.

    Thanks and great job btw!

  5. #25
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    I did both.

    On the outer layer I attached the baffles 1st, added the darts and then attached the baffles to the ends. The inner layer I did the darts 1st, and then attached it to the baffles already on the outer.

    There was no way around that since I ran the darts deep into the channels. I could have attached a baffle, and then sewn a dart, repeat - but that would only make one baffle easier and you would have to deal with both layers of fabric twice as much. It's hard controlling that much fabric, at least for me with a small table and sewing machine.

    If you used short darts, they could be added after the baffles are complete, or no darts would be even easier.

    I hope that makes sense!
    Experience is the worst teacher - it presents the exam first and the lesson later. - Unknown

  6. #26
    Senior Member chickenwing's Avatar
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    Wow that is a fantastic looking quilt and a very nice write up on the process.
    and then

    Check out my website www.cwhammocks.com or Find me on the YouTubes
    You can even"Like" me on facebook or follow me on Twitter @cwhammocks

    "In my world everyone is a pony, and they all eat rainbows, and poop butterflies."

  7. #27
    Senior Member G.L.P.'s Avatar
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    Very Nice Me Likes
    It puts the Underquilt on it's hammock ... It does this whenever it gets cold

  8. #28

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    I know I am reviving an old issue, but I am still having trouble visualizing the closing of the baffle and I am not quite sure what I am looking at in the pictures.
    I have revisited many of the UQ threads, looked at GLP's (I think) pictures and the pictures here and I think I have it figured out, but I wanted to make sure.
    If you are attaching the baffle to the outer layer first (away from the hammock), one would sew the long length of the baffle piece along the prescribed line --got it.

    My best understanding is near the end of the outer shell, one would stop stitching along the long length of the netting and begin stitching up the short side of the baffle piece (trimming the baffle material to an appropriate length) thus creating an 'L' or an angled end in the outer shell.

    Is this correct?
    If so, where do you make the transition (how far away from the edge-- would it be the baffle height?) ? This would give the outer shells a 90 deg corner that wraps around the loft to meet a flat inner shell. That is what I think I see in the pictures. Also is a true right angle better than a bit of taper (would not compress the loft at the joint between the shells.)
    Thanks for answering this question yet again.
    jason

  9. #29
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwright View Post
    My best understanding is near the end of the outer shell, one would stop stitching along the long length of the netting and begin stitching up the short side of the baffle piece (trimming the baffle material to an appropriate length) thus creating an 'L' or an angled end in the outer shell.

    Is this correct?
    You got it!


    If so, where do you make the transition (how far away from the edge-- would it be the baffle height?) ?
    Correct - baffle height inside of the seam allowance.
    This would give the outer shells a 90 deg corner that wraps around the loft to meet a flat inner shell. That is what I think I see in the pictures. Also is a true right angle better than a bit of taper (would not compress the loft at the joint between the shells.)
    Thanks for answering this question yet again.
    jason
    I don't really know which would be better, the ends will experience some compression due to the shockcord adjustment. I did it this way because it just seemed more logical to me than just cutting the baffle to meet the hem stitching which *might* allow down to shift from chamber to chamber. A simple short stitch negates that possibility.
    Experience is the worst teacher - it presents the exam first and the lesson later. - Unknown

  10. #30

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    Thanks HH!

    Jason

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