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  1. #21
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    Wow not much savings with cord instead. Thank you for all the help. i think all 3 Bridges you have made look exceptional.
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
    Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
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  2. #22
    So conceivably you could save ~2oz with dynaglide arcs or a little less if you add grosgrain loops to prevent fabric migration down the dynaglide arcs.
    I make my bridge using 7/64 amsteel. To prevent migration I sew through the amsteel. It flattens the cord when it is sewn and there is no fabric slippage at all.

  3. #23
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenDen View Post
    I make my bridge using 7/64 amsteel. To prevent migration I sew through the amsteel. It flattens the cord when it is sewn and there is no fabric slippage at all.
    You sew down the whole length or just toward the ends?
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  4. #24
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenDen View Post
    I make my bridge using 7/64 amsteel. To prevent migration I sew through the amsteel. It flattens the cord when it is sewn and there is no fabric slippage at all.
    +1 on sewing thru the amsteel. I have made 2 bridge hammocks doing it this way with no problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    You sew down the whole length or just toward the ends?
    I sew the entire length. I do the ends a little different than most. On my first one I continued the amsteel on the ends to finish the triangles. On my second one I left a short length of amsteel on each corner then I used a triple sheetbend to attach the dynaglide. Doing it this way does not rely on a sewn loop to hold the weight. You can tack the ends back to the hammock but the knot holds the weight not the sewn bartack

  5. #25
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    On my second one I left a short length of amsteel on each corner then I used a triple sheetbend to attach the dynaglide. Doing it this way does not rely on a sewn loop to hold the weight. You can tack the ends back to the hammock but the knot holds the weight not the sewn bartack
    Why the triple sheetbend instead of locked brummel loops?
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  6. #26
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    Why the triple sheetbend instead of locked brummel loops?
    Where are you picturing the locked brummel loops? Coming off the hammock or the suspension triangles? I come off the hammock body with 7/64" amsteel then attach the dynaglide with the sheetbend. I leave a long tail on the dynaglide and use it to splice back into the dynaglide suspension line to make whatever loops etc are needed to hold spreader bars. This varies on whether I use my trekking poles or tent poles. This method does not rely on any sewn loops on the smaller lines. Normally a bridge would have webbing loops that are sewn in that you attach the suspension lines to. When you use amsteel on the sides you do not have as wide an area to distribute the weight over the stitching.

    I guess you could do a locked brummel loop on the amsteel coming off the hammock but would have to make it up before sewing it down to hammock.

    Confused yet? Don't want to hijack BER's thread on an excellent diy bridge
    Last edited by hangnout; 10-21-2011 at 10:22.

  7. #27
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    I guess you could do a locked brummel loop on the amsteel coming off the hammock but would have to make it up before sewing it down to hammock.
    That is what I was talking about.

    You guys make some really great bridge hammocks. I am just getting into the whole bridge movement (thanks to my wifes hammock needs) and have only made two and all the info you guys put out there is gold. Thank you BER for your great answers to my many questions.
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  8. #28
    Senior Member egrant5329's Avatar
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    Ber,
    What drove the use of a 42" head spreader bar and a 30" foot spreader bar instead of doing something like a 39" and 36" similar to the chrysalis? Surely you have way more shoulder width than you need. I ask because I am trying to limit hip squeeze and allow myself to bring my knees up more into a fetal position when on my side. I know I don't need the width at the feet.

    On a side note, I accidentally blew out one of my segmented carbon fiber spreader bars. I was fooling around with another hammock and accidentally put the rod into a suspension triangle with sides less than 75% of the spreader bar length. The bar bowed out and one of the sections split dropping me to the floor. Needless to say I was extreemly irritated considering the cost of the carbon fiber bars.
    Ed
    Ed

  9. #29
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    That is awesome. I may have to try a bridge next. It won't be near as nice a that. Great job.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    Ber,
    What drove the use of a 42" head spreader bar and a 30" foot spreader bar instead of doing something like a 39" and 36" similar to the chrysalis? Surely you have way more shoulder width than you need. I ask because I am trying to limit hip squeeze and allow myself to bring my knees up more into a fetal position when on my side. I know I don't need the width at the feet.

    On a side note, I accidentally blew out one of my segmented carbon fiber spreader bars. I was fooling around with another hammock and accidentally put the rod into a suspension triangle with sides less than 75% of the spreader bar length. The bar bowed out and one of the sections split dropping me to the floor. Needless to say I was extreemly irritated considering the cost of the carbon fiber bars.
    Ed
    Ed,
    I think I chose a wider head spreader for two reasons. Or maybe 3 in combination. I wanted the hammock a little wider across my shoulders, I like the 1.15 ratio for side to side flatness at the head end, and I wanted a little wider waist than I had on the Cloud. So making the head end wider while keeping the same arc effectively widened the fabric at the waist a little bit. The 30" spreader at the foot was arbitrary length between the Chrysalis and the GrizZBridge. And I think there is a little less subjective tippiness when there is a difference in head and foot spreader length (I have no science to back up this opinion).

    Oooh. Sorry to hear about your CF pole. Did it split mid section or at the furule?

    Quote Originally Posted by fish_n1 View Post
    That is awesome. I may have to try a bridge next. It won't be near as nice a that. Great job.
    Thanks. I'm sure you can make one. It is a very basic design. Nothing fancy like a GrizzBridge with end caps and netting and such. Go for it!

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