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  1. #1
    Senior Member jbphilly's Avatar
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    Cheapest, fairly simple suspension option?

    I'm getting into making my own hammocks, not all of which will be used for backpacking - just for hanging out in parks, gifts for friends, etc. I'm wondering just what the title says - what's the cheapest form of suspension if weight is not important? Also, it should be pretty simple to use for the aforementioned gift recipients who may not want to learn all about whoopie slings or complicated knots...what are your ideas?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Southpaw's Avatar
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    Ratchet straps from your local hardware or sporting goods store. If weight doesn't matter.

  3. #3
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    We like to encourage webbing for tree-hugger use, no matter what kind of suspension. It's arguably better for the trees, and certainly better for 'perception' of hammockers. So I'd recommend just using a full webbing suspension to keep it simple.

    Polyester webbing and old style cinch buckles are cheap, easy to get, and work very well. That setup is so simple that almost anyone 'gets it' after seeing it the first time.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  4. #4
    Senior Member hippofeet's Avatar
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    +1 ratchet strapsActually cam buckle straps.
    Last edited by hippofeet; 11-16-2011 at 10:52.
    An emergency of my own making...is still an emergency.

  5. #5
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Cheapest, lightest and tree friendliest approach is a couple 10-12 ft lengths of 1 inch poly pro webbing and Speer 4 wrap or HH fifgure 8 wrap lashings...If you want to eliminate the lashing JRB Tri-glides are a light, simple, no moving parts approach...

    Shameless plug...It is hard to beat the Hammock strap and tri glide set found here... http://www.jacksrbetter.com/Strap%20Set.htm

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

    www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413

  6. #6
    http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...aps-67386.html

    If you cut the bar on the clamp with a hacksaw, you can save the loop on the strap. No load rating on these straps but they're beefy enough for our use.

    (I usually see these at the store for $2.99)
    Last edited by cardo; 11-16-2011 at 09:42.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    ya, i would say simplest to use for a noob would be straps with loops sewn in and carabiners. much like the vid on here for the roo.

  8. #8
    Senior Member injun51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardo View Post
    http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...aps-67386.html

    If you cut the bar on the clamp with a hacksaw, you can save the loop on the strap. No load rating on these straps but they're beefy enough for our use.

    (I usually see these at the store for $2.99)
    They have a working load of 330 lbs. Ample as long as you're not swinging.

  9. #9
    Rain Man's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by injun51 View Post
    They have a working load of 330 lbs. Ample as long as you're not swinging.
    Maybe not so. "Ample" would be a rated working load of 5-to-10 times your actual total weight. Several threads on HF discuss the physics of hanging dynamic weights at angles.

    Rain Man

    .
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods
    .

  10. #10
    working load is usually a fraction of breaking strength, most stuff has a breaking strength of 10 or so times bodyweight... 1000lbs or so. something with a working load of 300# probably has a breaking strength over 1000

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