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Thread: Baffle Question

  1. #1
    Alamosa's Avatar
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    Baffle Question

    So I was looking at the methods I have seen for putting baffles into quilts and knowing my abilities want very much to apply the KISS method (Keep It Simple Sewing). Had some thoughts and wanted to throw them out here for discussion.

    The most common approach seems to be to sew in a piece of no-see-um or whatever for the baffle between the to layers. The baffle is rolled over at both edges to be sewn through. Something like:


    When considering the different layers and the adjustments for differential both across and along baffles, etc., this is a complicated bit of sewing (at least for me).

    How would it work to simply use the top shell fabric for the baffling. Do a simple sew through at each baffle point leaving the appropriate additional fabric to account for the baffle, differential cut, etc. At any point you would only be sewing two flat pieces together down relatively straight lines. Something like:


    A few stitches here and there to tack the tops of the baffles together should keep everything in place and with the expansion of the down it should keep the baffles snugged together. Gravity should also help keeping the upper baffles resting on the lower ones.


    It seems like it would be far easier to make. Less cutting, less aligning, less sewing, less seams to fail.

    The only real disadvantage I can see is that it would double the fabric on the baffle. However, the rolled seams in the traditional baffle probably adds an extra inch or so to each side of the baffle to begin with. Then there are two seams, with twice the thread.

    So on thin quilts (less than 2 inch baffles) it would probably be less material. On quilts with larger baffles, the difference would probably be insignificant.

    Thoughts?

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  2. #2
    Dutch's Avatar
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    I have made both versions. The only problem I have is with the 2nd version is it takes alot of material and if you make differential baffles you won't be able to make a real wide quilt with one width of material. If you do do that you have to first sew the top to make the baffles and then sew the baffles to the bottom.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member BullFrog's Avatar
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    The middle (head hole) baffle in a wearable quilt is like this; I don't know about a whole quilt, but it seems to work for one at least. Diagram in this thread:
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=2645
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  4. #4
    Dutch's Avatar
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    here are some pics
    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&cutoffdate=-1
    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&cutoffdate=-1
    Here is a mock up I did in grosgraine
    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&cutoffdate=-1

    Occurs to me that if you had the inner shell as the piece that makes the baffles you would have wide enough material depending on teh width of your material and the height of you baffles.
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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    The only problem I have is with the 2nd version is it takes alot of material and if you make differential baffles you won't be able to make a real wide quilt with one width of material.
    You could over come this problem my making horizontal baffles instead of using baffles than run head to foot.

  6. #6
    Senior Member streamline's Avatar
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    I am not seeing how it would be easier. You still have to stitch in two places. Also your adding extra weight of doubled up fabric versus the one layer of the lighter noseeum material.

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    How would you tack the fabric in pic3? Seems to me it would not work without manual needlework. Pic1: I never roll over my mosquito netting -- it has not yet frayed, and I don't think that it is a special attribute of German mosquito netting. Rolling over I'd still not need an inch give on each side.

  8. #8
    Alamosa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I have made both versions. The only problem I have is with the 2nd version is it takes alot of material and if you make differential baffles you won't be able to make a real wide quilt with one width of material.
    That issue had occurred to me, but I was thinking that putting a couple of pieces together with seams either running down or across the quilt would allow for the appropriate width.

    A joining seam which is going to be buried on the inside of the quilt is pretty easy for me to do (compared to other seams).

    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    Occurs to me that if you had the inner shell as the piece that makes the baffles you would have wide enough material depending on teh width of your material and the height of you baffles.

    If you do do that you have to first sew the top to make the baffles and then sew the baffles to the bottom.
    That may be the simplest option. But like you said, in that case you would have to sew the baffles completely along its length so that the inner layer could be pulled tight without compressing the down. That does eliminate the simplicity and the second set of stitches.

    Quote Originally Posted by streamline View Post
    I am not seeing how it would be easier. You still have to stitch in two places. Also your adding extra weight of doubled up fabric versus the one layer of the lighter noseeum material.
    The simplicity is only sewing one full line of stitches along each baffle without having to worry about rolling the noseeum edges. A single line of stitches would be sewn down each baffle edge as shown in the middle picture. After the down insulation is filled and the edges are sealed, a single tack is added on the outside every foot or so to position the baffles together. The outer edges are not sewn with a full line of stitches. Does that make more sense?

    Most of the noseeum that I have seen is in the 0.9-1.0 oz./sq. yd. range, so it is not much different than 1.1 ripstop for weight. With the rolled hems on both sides of the noseeum baffle, for quilts under 2 inches, this technique would actually use less material (albeit just a bit heavier). For quilts with higher loft/baffles, there would be some penalty.
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  9. #9
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    I'm baffled...
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  10. #10
    Alamosa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trinni View Post
    How would you tack the fabric in pic3? Seems to me it would not work without manual needlework.
    That is exactly what I was thinking. Using a needle and doing a simple loop every foot or so.

    Quote Originally Posted by trinni View Post
    Pic1: I never roll over my mosquito netting -- it has not yet frayed, and I don't think that it is a special attribute of German mosquito netting. Rolling over I'd still not need an inch give on each side.
    I was basing that on most of the pictures I have seen that showed it rolled. My concern was that the netting would easily pull out of the stitches without the roll.

    The inch was just a rough estimate based on rolling over 1/2" for the hem and then sewing through it. With my sewing, it is an average. Sometimes it is 0" sometimes it is 1". Somewhere along the zagging lines, it will hit the 1/2" mark - just not often or for very long.
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