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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bindibadgi View Post
    You could always wrap the whoopie around the end of the hammock a few times to shorten it. Do several wraps before the lark's head, which will obviously no longer really be a lark's head, but I'm not sure what it would be.

    This way you could have the free end exiting the adjustable bury only an inch from the hammock end. Your shortest length would then be only 9" or 10".

    Of course, I've got a Hennessy, so I am forced to do this anyway, but I can't really see why it wouldn't work on any gathered end.

    Has anyone tried this?
    So, here is my attempt at doing this. Anyone have objections to this method?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
    Senior Member bindibadgi's Avatar
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    Wow, you did get that close! It looks nice. I hope it works for you.

    Make sure it doesn't come loose when you wriggle, turn over, swing, etc in the hammock. In other words, use it carefully while you test it out.
    It's bad luck to be superstitious.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Gra_factor's Avatar
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    I have wondered if, instead of using whoopie slings you make a CRS(?) in combination with your ridge line... assuming your ridge line is made from amsteel as well. The bury is actually in the ridge line near each end of your hammock. Then you would need a metal ring at each gathered end to feed the sling through, so it doesn't pull sideways against the bury of the CRS.
    "Dyslexic knot unravellers of the world, UNITE!"

  4. #14
    dejoha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rip waverly View Post
    this is a common complaint when attempting to hang shorter spans.

    rather than compromise any levels of safety by reducing bury lengths...
    i've gone to amsteel loops *chainlinks* on the ends of my hammock.
    +1

    This is my method as well. A chain link, or rope loop, is fixed in the channel of my hammock via a Lark's head knot. More and more often I'm finding that my site selection and strap length allows me to bypass the Whooopie more times than not; however, it is nice to have the Whoopies when necessary.

    This is a method I describe in my book.

    I also have minimal buries and short Whoopies, as over time, I've found what length works for the areas I frequent. I make my own Whoopies and my eye splices are small. I've seen some Whoopies with a 4-6 in. (10-15 cm.) eye and an 8 in. (20 cm.) bury. My eye loop is about 1.5 in. (4 cm.) and 4 in. (10 cm.) tapered bury. For me, the eye need only be large enough to tie a Lark's head knot, and the hole really only needs to be big enough to thread the Whoopie back through itself, so small is fine. The bury does need to be sufficient to hold under weight, so be careful with minimal buries.

    Carrying a few chain links is hardly a weight penalty.

  5. #15
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    This is one of the reasons I went with the Loopy Line, I can shorten them to half the length of the bury.
    Last edited by gd___; 01-08-2012 at 00:57.

  6. #16
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    Oh, that's very cool. That might be something to consider down the line for sure.

  7. #17
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    I posted this in the whoopie sling sticky the other daybut this is the thread that got me thinking of this solution. Should get the minimum length down to less than half of a convetional whoopie without reducing the bury lengths.


    The main dowside with whoopie slings that I have read about on here is the minimum length that can be acheived. Well I've made one with a change that allows it go much shorter.

    I built the constrictor section into the fixed eye. This means the fixed eye is a bit longer than normal but means the constrictor section bends around adding only half it's length to the line (while incorporating the fixed eye length). The whoopie loop can now be adusted to the point where the fixed eye bury starts to go into the constrictor. So the overall length can get down to half the constrictor length plus half the fixed eye bury length.

    You also end up with two lengths of rope for the ull length of the sling so could potetially use a lower rated rope for the same strength.

    The downside is you can't larks head the fixed eye to the hammock.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rip waverly View Post
    this is a common complaint when attempting to hang shorter spans.

    rather than compromise any levels of safety by reducing bury lengths...
    i've gone to amsteel loops *chainlinks* on the ends of my hammock.
    the whoopies are then attached to those via dutch biner, or more recently, i've built the whoopie directly into the chainlink.

    if i encounter a short span, i bipass the whoopie all together, and hook up to the marlin spike using only the chainlink. essentially i'm able to hang directly from the ends of my hammock, as determined by the overall length of the ridgeline.

    YMMV
    This is ingenious. I have been thinking about using chainlinks on the end of my hammock but I was worried it would be annoyingly long.

    Thanks!
    Look to this day: For it is life, the very life of life. In its brief course lie all the verities and realities of your existence. The bliss of growth, the glory of action, the splendour of achievement are but experiences of time.

    For yesterday is but a dream and tomorrow is only a vision; And today well-lived, makes yesterday a dream of happiness and every tomorrow a vision of hope. Look well therefore to this day; Such is the salutation to the ever-new dawn!
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  9. #19
    lonetracker's Avatar
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    i have never done it,but i remember reading this idea on here.instead of hooking the whoopie to your marlin spike you go around it,then back towards the middle were you attach to your other whoppie useing a nacra,carabiner,stick,one of your whoopies is openable ect.you could also skip the marlin spike and just wrap your webbing around tree a few times and slide the whoopie between tree and web as shown on left.you should be able to have the trees almost touching each side of the hammock with this method.

    diyin to hang

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