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  1. #11
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    It is not essential that you use a locked brummel if you take other measures to prevent movement of the splice. Those include the bury followed by stitches and or whipping.

    There's also the Shoemaker's splice

    https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=shoemaker's+splice&so urceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest


    where weaving four or five times substitutes for the locked Brummel.

    That said, after you've done a few, it shouldn't be hard to imagine a sweatshop in which the locked brummels with access to both ends of a 13 foot length of 2.5mm Amsteel are done at the rate of 100 per hour per worker. That is BEFORE passing the cordage on to the next workers, where completing the bury and tapering it do take somewhat more time.
    So much more time that you'll be tempted to shortchange the taper. Resist the temptation. A well done taper may be as effective for strength as having spent twice as much on heavier cord.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 01-29-2012 at 13:50. Reason: bad url

  2. #12
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnVH View Post
    Try this one McDonald locking bremmel post 40. This was the simplest one for me, works great and not to tough once you have it figured out.

    http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post230949
    That's how I do mine most of the time, since it only requires access to one end of the rope.
    Knotty
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  3. #13
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnVH View Post
    Try this one McDonald locking bremmel post 40. This was the simplest one for me, works great and not to tough once you have it figured out.

    http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post230949
    thank you, thank you, thank you!

    Just so happens that yesterday I was trying to use the instructions on the New England Ropes site for the one-ended locked Brummel and when I got to step 8 the topology was wrong. If you care, just compare figures 2 and 8 and explain how by rolling and and unrolling a loop you can go from having the short end penetrate the cord (figure 2) to having the long end penetrate the cord (figure 8).

    But the instructions you point out are clear, and are photos rather than hand-drawings. They are real!

    Too bad it is still not possible to work a ring or something inside of the deadeye loop. Topological tricks only go so far.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Too bad it is still not possible to work a ring or something inside of the deadeye loop. Topological tricks only go so far.

    When you use the one ended method it is not possible to put anything inside the deadeye loop. However, using the two ended method it is possible to put a ring inside the deadeye loop.

  5. #15
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

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  6. #16
    Senior Member BearChaser's Avatar
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    I make mine like the New England Ropes diagram & how opie shows.

    Grizz, In step 3, notice the short end is being pulled thru then turned inside out, then in step 8, instead of pulling the short end back thru, pull the long end of the rope up thru. I did the same thing as you the first time, I tried unrolling or pulling the short end in step 8 back in the opposite direction I pulled it thru instead of pulling the long section up thru. Your still unrolling it, just unrolling it different than you think, its all mind games. Our minds tell us that when we roll something up, there is only one way to unroll it, the opposite direction. When you run a rope thru the middle of itself, you have two ways to unroll it.

    In step 3 look at the arrow showing direction your pulling the end, in step 8 don't reverse that arrow in step three. Look closely at how the arrows are shown. Your unrolling the part A but pulling B up thru A.

    If none of that makes sense, just ignore it and watch Opie's video. It's the exact way they show in the diagram. Its just confusing until you get it right once.
    Last edited by BearChaser; 01-30-2012 at 20:17. Reason: Added clarification, and smilie. :)

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    thank you, thank you, thank you!

    Just so happens that yesterday I was trying to use the instructions on the New England Ropes site for the one-ended locked Brummel and when I got to step 8 the topology was wrong. If you care, just compare figures 2 and 8 and explain how by rolling and and unrolling a loop you can go from having the short end penetrate the cord (figure 2) to having the long end penetrate the cord (figure 8).

    But the instructions you point out are clear, and are photos rather than hand-drawings. They are real!

    Too bad it is still not possible to work a ring or something inside of the deadeye loop. Topological tricks only go so far.
    I poured thru hundreds of post on splicing before trying the McDonald technique/instructions; the drawing on the New England ropes site was confusing to me as well. It took some fiddling but I stuffed a Dutch hook thru the opening in the line of the lock and ended up with it on the eye for a continuous ridgeline I think it is zing-it, bought from WB when I ordered my super fly.

  8. #18
    but enough about me hppyfngy's Avatar
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    This explanation of a McDonald is the same as the cruisersforum with a video demo at the end.

    http://l-36.com/mcdonald.php
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  9. #19
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    I made my whoopies using a youtube tutorial from a rather affable chap across the pond... he also shows the brummel lock quite clearly

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dgCy2qyIGY
    Rev

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