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  1. #1
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Discuss - Hammock Hanging Method - 1

    This is the discussion/companion thread to TeeDee's Hammock Hanging Method -1 Article.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  2. #2
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    TeeDee-
    thanks for pointing out the Marlin Spike Hitch. I see how it is useful to be able to make on on the webbing, close to the tree, and so be sure to be able to attach the rope close to the tree (I have been using the suspension rope tied to the webbing with a double sheetbend, which has its problems when the webbing is long (I have one 6' length), the trees are small and towards the minimum distance.

    I think I see some other applications for it too...

    Now if I was to adopt your full blown hanging method, the first thing that would happen is that I'd lose one or more of the Marlin spikes (and btw I have taken to tying bits of bright orange cord to most loose pieces I use in my setup, makes it a whole lot easier to spot them when dropped on the ground). I didn't work out what I'd have to do if I lost a spike though. What's plan B for we of clumsy fingers? I gather that a trail stick is OK on the webbing because the webbing is wider and can distribute the force on the stick. Not so on the suspension rope.

    Grizz

  3. #3
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    TeeDee-
    thanks for pointing out the Marlin Spike Hitch. I see how it is useful to be able to make on on the webbing, close to the tree, and so be sure to be able to attach the rope close to the tree (I have been using the suspension rope tied to the webbing with a double sheetbend, which has its problems when the webbing is long (I have one 6' length), the trees are small and towards the minimum distance.

    I think I see some other applications for it too...
    Yes I like it - it comes in very useful when I want to use small diameter cord and pull it tight - it is small and cuts my hands. I just grab my marlin spike, tie a quick marlin spike hitch and then I can easily pull as hard as I want without cutting my hands. Very useful. A stick could be used also, but I know the Marlinspike won't break unexpectedly.

    BY the way, if anyone is interested in getting marlinspike, the Myerchin Marlinspike is the best I have used or found. I highly recommend the Myerchin Marlinspike for anybody.

    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Now if I was to adopt your full blown hanging method, the first thing that would happen is that I'd lose one or more of the Marlin spikes (and btw I have taken to tying bits of bright orange cord to most loose pieces I use in my setup, makes it a whole lot easier to spot them when dropped on the ground). I didn't work out what I'd have to do if I lost a spike though. What's plan B for we of clumsy fingers? I gather that a trail stick is OK on the webbing because the webbing is wider and can distribute the force on the stick. Not so on the suspension rope.

    Grizz
    Ahhh - I lose everything unless it is tied down or on. Look closely at this picture



    There are two toggles there - one marlin spike hitch on the hang rope and one toggled bight. The lanyard for the toggle on the top comes back over the hang rope to the loop on the right which is around the hang rope. The lanyard for the toggle on the bottom makes a short curve around to the left and up to the hang rope.

    Each toggle has a lanyard tied to the hang rope. I drilled a 7/64" hole on one end of each toggle and use guy line to keep it tied to the hang rope. I used simple bowlines to secure to the hang rope, but am now switching to Prusiks. Use the bowline loop to tie a Prusic on the hang rope. A simple bowline loop like I used originally in the picture slide along the hang rope and are sometimes far away on the rope. With the Prusic, they stay where I put them better.

  4. #4
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    A short addendum:

    On my hike I used Spyderline for the hang rope. Since I'm home I've converted to the 3 mm dyneema the wife's cousin obtained.

    I found out that there is a big difference in the two in the use of the Marlinspike Hitch. The Spyderline is sheathed and the dyneema is coated and the difference lies in that.

    The Marlin Spike hitch works great for the stopper knots on either rope.

    However. for the Marlin Spike hitch to the dyneema loop to the tree hugger, the coated pulls too tight and is extremely difficult to untie in the coated.

    For the coated 3 mm dyneema I still use the Marlin Spike hitch for the stopper knots, but for the end inserted into the dyneema loop, I've switched to a toggled bight. Simply pull a bight through the loop, pull the hang rope to the desired sag/tension, then fold the bight back on the hang rope (both strands) and tie a toggled bight (again catching both strands with the toggle). Would probably be easier to use the toggled bight here with the Spyderline also.

  5. #5
    New Member OddDuck's Avatar
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    Would Dynaglide work

    Noob, so please excuse the naive question.

    Has anybody tried this with Dynaglide? I know it leaves little margin for error, but it should work.

  6. #6
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    Very interesting Tee Dee, thanks.
    Have you tried aluminum pipe as toggles. 10-12mm pipe could work?

  7. #7
    New Member ChiefH's Avatar
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    I also use the Marlin Spike method of attaching my whopopie sling to the straps when setting up my hammock. On one of my hammocks, I use a piece of fiberglass pole for my toggles. The fiberglass pole is from a driveway edge delineator 3-ft pole that I cut in 3-inch lengths and then filed the ends smooth, and added a 45degree chamfer to the end. They are strong, smooth and relatively light. My other hammock uses the aluminum tubeing toggles.

  8. #8
    OutandBack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    TeeDee-
    thanks for pointing out the Marlin Spike Hitch. I see how it is useful to be able to make on on the webbing, close to the tree, and so be sure to be able to attach the rope close to the tree (I have been using the suspension rope tied to the webbing with a double sheetbend, which has its problems when the webbing is long (I have one 6' length), the trees are small and towards the minimum distance.

    I think I see some other applications for it too...

    Now if I was to adopt your full blown hanging method, the first thing that would happen is that I'd lose one or more of the Marlin spikes (and btw I have taken to tying bits of bright orange cord to most loose pieces I use in my setup, makes it a whole lot easier to spot them when dropped on the ground). I didn't work out what I'd have to do if I lost a spike though. What's plan B for we of clumsy fingers? I gather that a trail stick is OK on the webbing because the webbing is wider and can distribute the force on the stick. Not so on the suspension rope.

    Grizz
    My spikes never leave the tree strap. It's the only way I found to not lose them.

    O&B
    May your mileage in the backcountry exceed your post count.

  9. #9
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Discuss - Hammock Hanging Method - 1

    Quote Originally Posted by OutandBack View Post
    My spikes never leave the tree strap. It's the only way I found to not lose them.

    Yep, I have been tying my toggles to the straps for years...
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  10. #10
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    blakes hitch? you can add more coils.

    my first thought was a valoditain tresse with a knut finish, but then I remembered it needs a difference in diameter. I take climbing kit with me when I hang, so I'm going to use the climbing line, lucky me!

    thank you for the marlinspike info! really interesting setup yo!

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