New DIY Bridge Hammock

**Tijereyes** · 02-26-2013, 23:47

Hey all,

So I finished putting my version together. Not sure how well it turned out; take a look and see what you think.

The biggest problem I found is one that is hardly unique to me, I imagine - the hammock is slipping down at the peaks of the suspension triangles.

Best guess on how to fix it (for me, at least) is to try Grizz's method of sewing through the amsteel at the tops -- the material is too thick to attach the webbing a la tammons; my sewing machine was barely able to get through the two layers.

I did give it a try tonight; aside from a few threads at the tops of the suspension triangles popping as it slipped down, it seemed to hold OK. The cutouts where the amsteel dogbones join together to hold the spreader bars seem to be OK. I will probably sew through the amsteel there as well just for peace of mind.

I have a couple other pics, showing some crummy details of how the hammock is put together (sorry, had to take the pictures in the dark with my cell phone).

There seems to be a calf ridge, oddly enough - a raised area under the foot end spreader bar. I haven't played with the suspension at all; hopefully I'll be able to reduce / get rid of that. On the plus side, my dynaglide UCRs held me up, even when I bounced.

**tammons** · 02-27-2013, 09:15

So you have a continuous amsteel loop all the way around the hammock running through a channel ??

Looks good.

Dont have any idea about how to stop the slipping except stitching to the body

MY foot end is slightly lower than my knee area but not enough to make it uncomfortable. Doesnt feel like a ridge. Maybe it has something to do with the side cutouts.

What I dont like is the shoulder squeeze. Its very tight unlike a Gathered end hammock. Gathered end sort of cradles you. These types are just very taught with little stretch.

I think Ideally the best thing for one of these is a Large (wide) Xlite or \ inflatable pad with a GG 1/8 pad at the arm shoulder area.

I did try a short inflatable but that caused even more foot/lower leg dropoff.

**egrant5329** · 02-27-2013, 10:16

I thought about doing a channel, but my fear was that it would slide and using the webbing is really easy so I stuck with the webbing. If I do another I will use the 1/2" webbing instead of the 3/8". Its a little heavier, but I find that there is less stretch.

Shoulder squeeze is a function of the spreader bar width and the material arc length underneath. I find mine is as about as flat as you can get and a great improvement over previous bridges. There are a lot of posts about that issue.

The feet area took a lot of thought when I started designing mine. I made me triangle length the same as my as my spreader bar width and it seemed to work out well. I find it is pretty flat if I hang the triangle ~the same angle as the triangle sides angle (if that makes any sense). If I hang the hammock flatter (ie. less of a triangle angle) then I do get a bit of a slope, but find it comfortable. Look at the angle I have mine set at in the pics. That's the angle I generally hang at, sometimes just a bit flatter.

Ed

**Tijereyes** · 02-27-2013, 10:58

Originally Posted by tammons

So you have a continuous amsteel loop all the way around the hammock running through a channel ??

I have six separate amsteel dogbones that are interlocked along the sides to form two long chains. The spreader bars fit into the two interlocking fixed eyes where the dogbones meet up. At the tips of the suspension triangles, the UCR is threaded through the two fixed eyes and larks-headed back onto itself. Aside from the slippage of the hammock along the channels, it seems to be a pretty solid design, with the spreader bars connecting directly to the suspension. See the attached pic for details.

Originally Posted by egrant5329

I thought about doing a channel, but my fear was that it would slide and using the webbing is really easy so I stuck with the webbing.

My previous bridge hammocks have been done with webbing as well -- it's a little more comfortable, and certainly easier (but a little heavier, I imagine). To some extent I used cord just to see if I could do it

I've got big plans, though - my eventual goal is to try and duplicate Dutch's Bridgeskin using this design as the base hammock design. I was thinking cords eventually to minimize the base weight of the hammock/pack (though seeing as I'm not a gram weenie by any stretch of the word it might not be worth it).

Originally Posted by egrant5329

The feet area took a lot of thought when I started designing mine. I made me triangle length the same as my as my spreader bar width and it seemed to work out well. I find it is pretty flat if I hang the triangle ~the same angle as the triangle sides angle (if that makes any sense). If I hang the hammock flatter (ie. less of a triangle angle) then I do get a bit of a slope, but find it comfortable. Look at the angle I have mine set at in the pics. That's the angle I generally hang at, sometimes just a bit flatter.

Ed

So I haven't really had time to play around with the suspension yet - basically just slapped it up on my hammock stand and got in to see if it would hold my weight.

When I get home today I'll sew the cords in place in the channels, then rig up an adjustable ridgeline and start playing with hang angles. I think it's going to work just fine, once I get the hang figured out. Great design, Ed!

**tammons** · 02-27-2013, 12:56

Mule tape would save some weight.

**donstin** · 02-27-2013, 14:45

Here's my second attempt. Only single layer though. With 6' whoopies and 12' straps it weighs in at 14.7 ounces. My spreader bars are heavy at 14 ounces. They are scavenged from an old pole tent. I love the flat lay of this one. My stitch work is lacking as I struggled to sew the point where the triangle and cat cut meet.

Also shown is my 3 layer IX underquilt that is full length for me. Originally designed for a gathered end hammock, it works quite well with this bridge. And my 14 oz. diy backpack (this forum has also inspired me to look at what else I can make..)

Still working out a bug net. I already have a bug sock but it doesn't work well on this bridge hammock. May end up making a "Ted" bug net..

**Tijereyes** · 02-27-2013, 15:14

Wow, that looks like a really nice job. I'm looking forward to getting mine adjusted and trying it out.

I also have a 3-layer IX underquilt; I must've miscut it or something because it's never really worked for me without a pad as extra insulation.

For bug nets -- I don't know if you've seen this post, but TeeDee managed to make a version of the TED bugnet that plays nice with bridge hammocks: Link is here

**egrant5329** · 02-27-2013, 15:15

Looks good. Your next version you could easily shorten ~10".

**tammons** · 02-27-2013, 15:28

Originally Posted by Tijereyes

Wow, that looks like a really nice job. I'm looking forward to getting mine adjusted and trying it out.

I also have a 3-layer IX underquilt; I must've miscut it or something because it's never really worked for me without a pad as extra insulation.

For bug nets -- I don't know if you've seen this post, but TeeDee managed to make a version of the TED bugnet that plays nice with bridge hammocks: Link is here

I made an IX UQ a while back and its not that great. Hard to seal etc for me.
I also need a thin pad at least.

IMO just go down or climashield for an UQ.

**donstin** · 02-27-2013, 17:56

Yeah, I could shorten quite a bit. This one is 9'6" to the tips. I'm 5'9". My foot is at the very end in the picks. I love it though. Hope it holds up with my bad seam job. Thinking of getting better trekking poles so I could use them and drop the weight of the tent poles. Playing around with the cheap Walmart poles I can't save enough to justify changing.