we'll expect an explanatory video, of course.
we'll expect an explanatory video, of course.
I got #2 skins and they fit perfectly; loose enough to get a wet tarp in easily, not so loose a dry tarp doesn't stay in. I like skskinner's idea of a single tarp, but I don't sew.
Some dimensions given in this post.
Posted this on another tarp thread.... It is a reasonable alternative that may save folks some time and effort..... And if they don't master or like the technique they can purse the SS approach... no cost to try the free alternatives first.
"There really is no need for anything to handle a tarp easily and efficiently....
The technique that I've used for years.
First gather pegs.....roll the "down STLs around three or four fingers , wrat the last 3 feet around the roll and finish with a slip....( later they will unroll with a single turn and never tangle...and for now they will make the remainder of this simple)....Untie one end from tree 1....grasp the ridge tab..... walk over to the other ridge tab.... gasp in same hand.... pull slip knot on tree 2.... let ridge cords dangle.... find ridge seam center with free hand....extend both arms in front....place chin over "new" center.... take original center to the ridge tabs, grasp all.... fold again, and again.... with free hand pull ridge cords off to one side.... Now, from the ridge fold or roll to the open edges, flip the last 10 inches into the roll for a nice clean bundle.... roll the two ridge cords around the folded/rolled bundle.... Stick it in an outer pocket.... DONE.
Note, if wet or rainy follow aboveprocedure... just shake off at each step.... Really easy to do.
This is a 60 to 90 second drill..... never tangles.... And is ready for immediate deployment...Guarenteed as fast as SS to deploy for an afternoon storm or a lunch cover.
Bonus, it does not require snake skins, Bbishop bag or stuff sack, thus it saves 1-3 oz depending on what you use, also save the cost in $ and time to make/buy SS etc....
Try it you may like it....."
YMMV .... If you don't like it, make SS or Bbishop bag.
Ounces to Grams.
www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413
The first problem: How to measure the darned stuff. I've been using simple (cheap) masking tape. Lay the fabric flat, or as flat as it will go on its own. Lay a long line of tape on the fabric and try not to stretch it in any dimension. Carefully lay another line of tape at right angles to the first and try not to put any tension anywhere. Continue taping to create the shape/size you want. Use a straight edge and pen to mark the tape for cutting.
2nd problem: sewing. After much trial and error, I've settled on leaving the masking tape on the fabric and sewing it in. Yeah - it looks like who'd a thought it, but dog gone it, everything else is worse! Make two passes in the sewing machine. 1st pass, very slowly rip a straight stitch trying to keep the top and bottom fabrics together, ie. don't let the bottom get ahead of the top. 2nd pass, zigzag.
For improved looks, invest a lot of time: Carefully measure and cut so that only 1/8" or so of tape is left on the fabric. Sew the two pieces with a 1/4" hem. Cut off the 1/8" tape. This leaves a very thin hem. Don't know about the durability of that, but with the zigzag it should hold.
I followed this, it's basically like folding a sheet you take down from a clothes line, at least to the point where you have folded the ridgeline as many times as you will.
Observe : if you use the technique you describe, the "natural" way to put the tarp into its manufacturer-supplied stuff sack is to put it in the bag rolled-end first. Granted, the technique you describe eschews the bag, but just suppose.
Now do this with the, oh, 11' x 10' tarp JRB sells. Know what? Tarp doesn't fit into the bag. Depending on the number of times you fold it, the tarp roll is either several inches taller than the bag, or a few inches shorter. Best way I've found to deal with that is to make the last two folds to partition the remaining width in thirds, but while that's easy to do up by the hands, the tarp doesn't much want to follow those suggestions further down towards the ground.
It's a nit, but if I had my way, the height of the stuff sack would be closer to a height you get by folding the ridgeline in half some number of times.
could be enough to drive a guy to make a tarp skin for it
The reason I use a skin (single 14 foot skin) on my 14 foot ridge line Mac Cat is that I want it up and ready but I want it out of the way. I want to see the stars and see on both sides of the hammock. A single skin works much better than two skins meeting in the middle. Whenever folding or stowing water proof fabric you cannot get all the air out and then when the skins come close to joining in the center you have a Balloon to deal with. With one long skin, it's easy, just pull it on and the end is always open to allow the air to escape. Mule
There are only two kinds of people that understand Marines: Marines and the enemy. Everyone else has a second-hand opinion.
Gen. William Thornson, U.S. Army
I've never had a problem with that; I just roll the tarp (or hammock) on a bias toward the center and pull the skin on as you roll. You don't have to be neat and it's very quick, but the bias is important. I think I learned to do it from a video on Imrisk's site, if my poor memory serves me right. Still, since a silnyl tarp has little bulk, I'd like to try a single long net snakeskin on the tarp just to make things even simpler.then when the skins come close to joining in the center you have a Balloon to deal with