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  1. #21
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    The Brummel is not the bury splice

    Let's not confuse the locked Brummel with the bury splice. However you accomplish it, the locked Brummel is the passing of the cord through itself. The bury splice is where the strength comes from.

    Questions and answers here were all about burying.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    Let's not confuse the locked Brummel with the bury splice. However you accomplish it, the locked Brummel is the passing of the cord through itself. The bury splice is where the strength comes from.

    Questions and answers here were all about burying.
    OK, *that's* good to know. So is the bury just a special case of the locked Brummel?
    "I'd rather rein in a bull than prod an ***."

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  3. #23
    Senior Member RamenShamen's Avatar
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    I use 22 gauge solid picture frame hanging wire.

    Quote Originally Posted by SnoMan View Post
    Hey y'all!

    I'm having trouble making the locked brummel with the 1.75mm Dyneema. My problem is getting a splicing tool small enough to pull the bury in the final step.

    The last thing I tried was a used guitar E-string, but even then the problem is that the double-up end was too fat to pull through.

    Should I be using a fid instead?

    Has anyone had success with a splicing wire? If so, what should I be doing to make that fat end pull through into the bury?

    Thanks in advance!
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  4. #24
    WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnoMan View Post
    OK, *that's* good to know. So is the bury just a special case of the locked Brummel?
    No, a bury is one way of holding a loop in the end of a rope. The locked brummel is a supplementary way of keeping that bury from coming loose when there isn't tension on the rope to make it constrict and thus hold the buried portion.

  5. #25
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnoMan View Post
    OK, *that's* good to know. So is the bury just a special case of the locked Brummel?
    No, it is not. The Brummel is weaving, the passing of the rope through itself, in one side and out the opposite side. The locked Brummel is passing it through itself twice in such way that it forms a self-locking eye.

    The bury is something else again. It is the enclosure of a length of the rope inside another rope or inside a length of itself

    You can Brummel without locking. You can bury without Brummeling because the strength of the splice is just as great as if you had not Brummeled.

    And, if you Brummel repeatedly -- there's an old rule of 5 -- you will have completed a splice which is full strength with non-synthetic ropes. There will still be the issue of what to do with the end to be sure it doesn't hang up and contribute to the splice coming apart under no-load conditions. Burying the end is one solution to solve that failure mode, but tapering and whipping is another.

    If you were in the field and wished to create an eye-splice in hollow-braid cord, you can do this with a Shoemaker's splice, which is
    • a repeated Brummel, weaving the cord repeatedly through itself
      followed by a shorter bury,
      and then a repetition of that.
    . With a pick on your pocket knife you can poke and open temporary holes between the strands to accomplish this. I would estimate that a weave with a dozen Brummels would offer the strength of eight Brummels and two short buries. The openings should be 4 braids -- about 3/4" --apart for Amsteel-based line in sizes we are using.

    -------------

    I repeat that while I infer that most people are pulling the bury with a thin folded wire, they don't say so, and it would be helpful to those who are learning to splice to know for sure if pulling is the approach being used. It is just as plausible to push the bury through the sleeve, whether you stiffen the end of it with tape, attach it to a fid, or you give it a stiff spine by inserting a wire and pushing that through, the same way you put your arm through a sleeve and leg through pants.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 03-24-2012 at 18:25. Reason: remove comma which changed meaning

  6. #26
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    Just thought I'd add this: http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/korda-7c...g-line-p114919

    Used this and the 12cm version when splicing 1.75 zing-it for locked Brummell, continuous loops and a whoopie for a srl. The zing-it just about fits in the end of the needle.

    I saw a bigger one in a video on here but I've no idea where to find it in the UK.

  7. #27
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    You can go to the dollar store or craft store and pickup some 26 gauge craft wire and a keychain ring. Ive done 20 so far on the same piece of wire. It could be a good piece in a survival kit as well.

  8. #28

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    I use a sewing tool called a loop turner, basically a very small gated hook (Purchased at Jo-Ann fabrics for less than $5) to pull the free end. I also found a pack of 4 very small knitting needles (again less than $5) to open the core of the rope.

    I use the same tools for Amsteel 1/4, 7/64 and Zing-it.

    Good Luck

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by damuffin View Post
    You can go to the dollar store or craft store and pickup some 26 gauge craft wire and a keychain ring. Ive done 20 so far on the same piece of wire. It could be a good piece in a survival kit as well.
    I exclusively use floral wire, which is pretty much the same (or exactly the same) as craft wire. Cheap, relatively easy to find and works well for zing-it and amsteel (as long as I taper 2 or 3 threads in the zing-it).
    Brian
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  10. #30
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    I have tried a lot of different things for splicing 1.75 the best and cheapest I have found is .35 mig welding wire doubled over. Works great

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