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  1. #281
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    Has anyone made one hammock with spreader bars (SB) and another non-SB with the same fabric but lengthened to match the overall length of the spreader bar hammock including the SB triangles/suspension? I suspect you would not feel any difference in a blind test and possibly save a few grams and the effort of making the spreader bar setup. Of course there's always the "where's the fun in that" factor to be considered.

  2. #282
    Senior Member
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    You also have the length issue, the amount added by the spreaders and the distance added by actually extending it aren't necessarily the same. Allot if the spreader bars are light as well oldgringo made a post with some of the weights.

  3. #283
    Senior Member alrany187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by berksound View Post
    Well I just made a mini spreader bar for the foot end, and thank you, thank you for all the cool work and designs. My sweet spot which was often tricky to find is indeed now huge, I don't need a small pillow under inside knee, etc.

    I bet you guys have answered your own questions though, and can give me opinions about whether doing the mod for the head end is worthwhile.
    +1 on what hppyfngy said. I would definitely say you should have the bars on both ends.

    Ellis

  4. #284

    Join Date
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    My daughters hammock

    So I wanted to make my daughters hammock (she's three) more comfortable and I had some spreader bar endcaps from a previous bridge hammock I made and some extra bamboo sitting around. I modded her GE to have mini-bars that are nine inches between the rings. Not that this will catch on but I thought I would share for the sake of posting all possible ways of making the mini-bars.
    I didn't have any amsteel sitting around so I used what was at hand-550 cord. A thirty pound little girl doesn't make 550 stretch that much so I don't think I'll be changing it out anytime soon. Plus this is more a park and porch hammock so lightweight and low stretch aren't that big of a deal.


    IMG_0564 by pappy2012, on Flickr


    IMG_0563 by pappy2012, on Flickr

  5. #285

    Join Date
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    I was thinking that a person could take the method created by gmcttr (page 5) and add the fabric ends i used in for my daughters hammock and have easily removable spreader bars. I imagine this working by running the amsteel in the fabric ends through the loops that were created to keep the bar from moving. Just a thought for those who would like to use bamboo or other material that shouldn't be drilled.

  6. #286

    Join Date
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    Last idea for today. I made these ends for my current bridge hammock and it wasn't until I looked at them again did I realize they might be helpful for the minibars. Notch the ends of the bars and use this figure 8 to attach the amsteel that runs in the hammock channel to the suspension triangle.


    IMG_3575 by pappy2012, on Flickr

  7. #287

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    A photo of the figure 8 in action:

    IMG_3570 by pappy2012, on Flickr

  8. #288
    Senior Member alrany187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Has anyone made one hammock with spreader bars (SB) and another non-SB with the same fabric but lengthened to match the overall length of the spreader bar hammock including the SB triangles/suspension? I suspect you would not feel any difference in a blind test and possibly save a few grams and the effort of making the spreader bar setup. Of course there's always the "where's the fun in that" factor to be considered.
    I am not sure if this meets the standards for your test, but my taffeta DIY was a gathered end that was whipped w/ no channel. I used it in backyard tests and afield in this format. Upon first trying it on a Byer, I sewed a channel in my taffeta DIY and installed the spreader bar. The difference was noticeable. So much so, that I am staying with the spreader bar system. These are just what I found and as they say YMMV.

    Deepest regards,

    Ellis

  9. #289
    olddog's Avatar
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    Got started working on the hiking hammock today, the season is approaching. Was using newhanger's system with the notched bar but with hpyfngy's dogbone thru the channel to allow more of an arc in the channel end. I found that the dogbone loops would slide inboard even pulling the triangles of the harness in. In an attempt to keep the loops from sliding I thought " whynot put the loops in the notch?" Pic below shows whynot! Ended up making new dowels 6" oa with 4" notch spacing. Ended up with a triangle harness with alrany's locked loop at the top and loops to go over the ends of the dowel. Used oldgringo's continous loop thru the channels and looped over the dowel ends and found with a few twist to the CL I could tighten it. Everything seems to be working OK and plan on hanging off the SLS tomorrow with pics to follow. Also found out you can get blisters on your fingers from playing with amsteel.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.

  10. #290
    Redoleary's Avatar
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    Doh! Hope you didnt hit the ground too hard.
    Good luck,
    RED

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    adapted from - ancient gaelic runes

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